zeroinverse
Guest
:bigsmile: Hahahaha!Coral reefer said:
The smaller one is holding up a Eschopps frag rack. The rack magnets are not very strong (for 1/2" glass)... hehehehe
The big one is for "cleaning" (when I decide to clean my tank).
ZeroInverse 150 gallon tank
- Thread starter zeroinverse
- Start date
The smaller one is holding up a Eschopps frag rack. The rack magnets are not very strong (for 1/2" glass)... hehehehe
The big one is for "cleaning" (when I decide to clean my tank).
zeroinverse
Guest
Kmooresf said:
Per request, FTS
Here is ALBUM LINK - with original resolution images.
(inline Images below):
https://picasaweb.google.com/107160448884424860739/ZeroInverse150GalMixedReefTank?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMWtrtTYoI3pGQ&feat=directlink
DISPLAY TANK
IN-SUMP FRAG TANK
To be soon moved to my coral propagation system (when I have time to build it out).
zeroinverse
Guest
JAR said:
Yeah, it's taken a while to grow out. Maybe 1+ years growth from a small fist sized "frag". A few pieces have accidentally fell off which I've mounted elsewhere.
I'll plan to DBTC a few plates.
zeroinverse
Guest
FROM NorCalReefClub
===========
Guys, here's my sump design. Would love any feedback on the layout.
With the current design, I have about 9~10 gallons of sump overflow to accomodate when display tank fails.
This is about 10% water volume of my 90 gallon tank, enough for about 2~2.5-inches high of water can drain from display tank.
(48"x18" footprint on 90 gallon tank x 2.5-inch high divide by 231 equal about 9 gallons)
NOTE: the plastic is WHITE to allow more diffuse reflection from the GROWLIGHT that will shine through the glass into this macroalgae growout area.
Also using opaque plastic prevents the frag tank section from getting "macroalgae grow light" spectrum. So I can better control the light spectrum to my corals in the front section.
===========
Guys, here's my sump design. Would love any feedback on the layout.
With the current design, I have about 9~10 gallons of sump overflow to accomodate when display tank fails.
This is about 10% water volume of my 90 gallon tank, enough for about 2~2.5-inches high of water can drain from display tank.
(48"x18" footprint on 90 gallon tank x 2.5-inch high divide by 231 equal about 9 gallons)
NOTE: the plastic is WHITE to allow more diffuse reflection from the GROWLIGHT that will shine through the glass into this macroalgae growout area.
Also using opaque plastic prevents the frag tank section from getting "macroalgae grow light" spectrum. So I can better control the light spectrum to my corals in the front section.
zeroinverse
Guest
FROM NorCalReefClub
===========
Check out my YouTube video of sump in action
[youtube]8rRrFbPVvZQ[/youtube]
Below are pictures of my sump filled with pumping water to get idea of dynamic water flow.
===========
Check out my YouTube video of sump in action
Below are pictures of my sump filled with pumping water to get idea of dynamic water flow.
zeroinverse
Guest
Here are my plans to build a my drawer slide for my 40gallon sump.
(here's the original thread where I asked for some advice Drawer slides advice)
This is a similar design to
[quote name='fshkllrz' timestamp='1315504820' post='56736']
Check out this thread, everything this guy did to set his tank up is very clean. Lots of ideas for keeping your set up super clean and tight. What you are looking for is on page 2.
sump slide
[/quote]
The drawer slides are concealed "beneath" the drawer tray. Think of it as a reversed cabinet slides. The outer "upside-down U" slides out.
This hides the drawer slides so you don't see it from the side when the drawer slides out.
I am planning to use L brackets on the TOP tray and on the BOTTOM base to make sure things stay perpendicular.
Top tray is made from two 2x4 (i.e. 1.5" x 3.5") wood topped with a piece of 3/4" plywood.
Bottom base is made from two 2x3 wood (i.e. 1.5" x 2.5")
These heights are necessary because the drawer slide is 2-1/4" high.
This means the drawer tray will sit 4.5" from base (calculation = 0.25" bottom gap + 3.5" top tray + 0.75" plywood)
NOTE: you could use 2x3 for top tray (instead of 2x4), but this means you have to be VERY accurate with installing the drawer slide. This will result in drawer tray sitting only 3.5" from base
===================
I am using TopSlide heavy duty full extension drawer slides. You can order from Rockler (there's one in Pleasant Hill, right near All About Fish).
http://www.rockler.c...0drawer%20slide
These drawer slides will hold 220LBS at full extension.
With a 40 gallon breeder tank that is about 320LBS (40 gallon * 8 LBS per gallon).
Since my sump tank will probably be 2/3 to 3/4 full, that's about 213~240LBS.
Also, note that often these ratings are for long-term use, like 10,000~50,000 cycles. So assuming I pull this out once a week, that's 52 times a year, 250 times in 5 years,...
Should be fine.
Mechanical drawings of the slides.
Rocker Slide
Parts List below
(here's the original thread where I asked for some advice Drawer slides advice)
This is a similar design to
[quote name='fshkllrz' timestamp='1315504820' post='56736']
Check out this thread, everything this guy did to set his tank up is very clean. Lots of ideas for keeping your set up super clean and tight. What you are looking for is on page 2.
sump slide
[/quote]
The drawer slides are concealed "beneath" the drawer tray. Think of it as a reversed cabinet slides. The outer "upside-down U" slides out.
This hides the drawer slides so you don't see it from the side when the drawer slides out.
I am planning to use L brackets on the TOP tray and on the BOTTOM base to make sure things stay perpendicular.
Top tray is made from two 2x4 (i.e. 1.5" x 3.5") wood topped with a piece of 3/4" plywood.
Bottom base is made from two 2x3 wood (i.e. 1.5" x 2.5")
These heights are necessary because the drawer slide is 2-1/4" high.
This means the drawer tray will sit 4.5" from base (calculation = 0.25" bottom gap + 3.5" top tray + 0.75" plywood)
NOTE: you could use 2x3 for top tray (instead of 2x4), but this means you have to be VERY accurate with installing the drawer slide. This will result in drawer tray sitting only 3.5" from base
===================
I am using TopSlide heavy duty full extension drawer slides. You can order from Rockler (there's one in Pleasant Hill, right near All About Fish).
http://www.rockler.c...0drawer%20slide
These drawer slides will hold 220LBS at full extension.
With a 40 gallon breeder tank that is about 320LBS (40 gallon * 8 LBS per gallon).
Since my sump tank will probably be 2/3 to 3/4 full, that's about 213~240LBS.
Also, note that often these ratings are for long-term use, like 10,000~50,000 cycles. So assuming I pull this out once a week, that's 52 times a year, 250 times in 5 years,...
Should be fine.
Mechanical drawings of the slides.
Rocker Slide
Parts List below
zeroinverse
Guest
1) I liked the idea of eye-level viewing of a fish tank, instead of bending down to see it
2) a higher stand would allow my 24~26" protein skimmer to fully slide out (without having to remove the collection cup every time
===========
I decided to build a 40-inch tall stand. See pictures. Details after the pictures.
Stand with drawer slide pushed in
Stand with drawer slide pulled out (full 18" drawer slide extension)
see previous reply detailing drawer slide
Stand with sump pulled out.
40gallon breeder tank (36"Lx18"Dx17"H)
Stand with sump pushed in
(notice lots of extra room to put electrical boxes, switches, reactors, topoffs, etc)
Here is what decided to build.
1) 40" tall stand
2) Used these DIY instructions to build the frame
3) Used 4x4 instead of 2x4 for the vertical sections. I over-engineered it.
4) Used 3/4" plywood on stand top (to help distribute weight of 120gallon tank)
5) Used 3/4" plywood on stand base (on top of the bottom frame) -- needed this as base to mount my drawer slide
6) Used 1/2" plywood for sides and back
7) Painted entire inside with high-glass white paint.
Put two coats of ebony black stain on exterior, then 2~3 coats of polyurethane.
NOTES:
a) use thin layers of polyurethane or you will get drip marks.
use a countersink #8 drill bit (helps the wood screws go in flush to wood)
c) use wood filler to fill the screw holes
d) 1st stain coat will still show the wood filler discoloration. don't worry, 2nd stain coat will hide it.
e) use 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 inch #8 wood screws for 1/2 plywood (since it screws into the 4x4).
f) use 2 inch #8 wood screws for the 3/4 plywood to 4x4 securing (and anywhere needed).
g) use a drill to make pilot holes before putting actually using the wood screws (prevents tearing/cracking of wood)
2) a higher stand would allow my 24~26" protein skimmer to fully slide out (without having to remove the collection cup every time
===========
I decided to build a 40-inch tall stand. See pictures. Details after the pictures.
Stand with drawer slide pushed in
Stand with drawer slide pulled out (full 18" drawer slide extension)
see previous reply detailing drawer slide
Stand with sump pulled out.
40gallon breeder tank (36"Lx18"Dx17"H)
Stand with sump pushed in
(notice lots of extra room to put electrical boxes, switches, reactors, topoffs, etc)
Here is what decided to build.
1) 40" tall stand
2) Used these DIY instructions to build the frame
3) Used 4x4 instead of 2x4 for the vertical sections. I over-engineered it.
4) Used 3/4" plywood on stand top (to help distribute weight of 120gallon tank)
5) Used 3/4" plywood on stand base (on top of the bottom frame) -- needed this as base to mount my drawer slide
6) Used 1/2" plywood for sides and back
7) Painted entire inside with high-glass white paint.
Put two coats of ebony black stain on exterior, then 2~3 coats of polyurethane.
NOTES:
a) use thin layers of polyurethane or you will get drip marks.
use a countersink #8 drill bit (helps the wood screws go in flush to wood)
c) use wood filler to fill the screw holes
d) 1st stain coat will still show the wood filler discoloration. don't worry, 2nd stain coat will hide it.
e) use 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 inch #8 wood screws for 1/2 plywood (since it screws into the 4x4).
f) use 2 inch #8 wood screws for the 3/4 plywood to 4x4 securing (and anywhere needed).
g) use a drill to make pilot holes before putting actually using the wood screws (prevents tearing/cracking of wood)
zeroinverse
Guest
Reality is, I almost never pull out the drawer slide. ^_^
lattehiatus
Past President
zeroinverse said:
I'll bet there is the rare occasion when the slide-out sump comes in handy, and it just might make you sleep better at night knowing it's an option. :bigsmile: Nice work!
zeroinverse
Guest
lattehiatus said:
If I had a "shorter stand", it definitely would have been great. But with a 40" high stand, I can just barely pull out my protein skimmer, around 20" tall.
zeroinverse
Guest
Jut some updated recent pics of stuff in my tank.
Here's my sunset montipora when I blow water on it and all the polyps retract. Otherwise, the green polyps are always extended so far I can't see the red base.
Someone called this a punk rocker zoa
Superman Monti
Superman with polyps retracted
Purple haze monti.
Looks more light blue, than the blue-purple in the picture
Here's my sunset montipora when I blow water on it and all the polyps retract. Otherwise, the green polyps are always extended so far I can't see the red base.
Someone called this a punk rocker zoa
Superman Monti
Superman with polyps retracted
Purple haze monti.
Looks more light blue, than the blue-purple in the picture
zeroinverse
Guest
All the container said was Montipora Sp., LED Vega Color, 7" HAW High/Mid
It looks neat and has green polyps with a brownish-blue(?) base.
Got this from BAR member mediumrare. Looks awesome and taught me that not all branching/sticks are acropora. For some reason, it got stuck in my head that all sticks are acropora. EVEN though I have digitatas, I had not realized they were montipora digitata. I was so used to idea that montis were mostly encrusting/playing kinds.
zeroinverse
Guest
For those that are interested, I set up a propagation tank in the garage.
Two 48"wide x 30"deep x 10" high low-iron glass "Asian-brace" style tanks (volume about 90 gallons of water volume).
Plan is to run calcium reactor, skimmer, and maybe SURGE TANK for flow.
Plan to divide the tank into thin "running strips" to help increase the flow across corals.
I'll have to see how corals do under LEDs.
I may switch to dual 150W MH/HQIs with T5HO supplements.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Right now, in the "heat of summer", I don't have to run a heater. Seems the pumps and ambient temperature keep it around 78-81.
For winter, I've bought a gas furnace that I need to hook up.
Two 48"wide x 30"deep x 10" high low-iron glass "Asian-brace" style tanks (volume about 90 gallons of water volume).
Plan is to run calcium reactor, skimmer, and maybe SURGE TANK for flow.
Plan to divide the tank into thin "running strips" to help increase the flow across corals.
I'll have to see how corals do under LEDs.
I may switch to dual 150W MH/HQIs with T5HO supplements.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Right now, in the "heat of summer", I don't have to run a heater. Seems the pumps and ambient temperature keep it around 78-81.
For winter, I've bought a gas furnace that I need to hook up.
zeroinverse
Guest
I got them at a good deal from a reefer up in Sac area. He got in as part of a "group buy" but never set it up.
They are the "Asian-brace" style as I call it (rather than Euro-brace style).
They are the "Asian-brace" style as I call it (rather than Euro-brace style).
JAR
Guest
zeroinverse said:For those that are interested, I set up a propagation tank in the garage.
Two 48"wide x 30"deep x 10" high low-iron glass "Asian-brace" style tanks (volume about 90 gallons of water volume).
Plan is to run calcium reactor, skimmer, and maybe SURGE TANK for flow.
Plan to divide the tank into thin "running strips" to help increase the flow across corals.
I'll have to see how corals do under LEDs.
I may switch to dual 150W MH/HQIs with T5HO supplements.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Right now, in the "heat of summer", I don't have to run a heater. Seems the pumps and ambient temperature keep it around 78-81.
For winter, I've bought a gas furnace that I need to hook up.
C00L!!!
