Our mission

Remember to inspect, dip and qt your new frags!

My qt tank has red flatworms in it now, but they are not seemingly prolific (yet!) I'll have to get some of the bayer dip before transferring over to DT. BUT then ... how do I know they are gone? So I Might have to do total tank dip and 100% WC on the qt tank.

V
 
Use flatworm exit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
And manual removal routinely for a little while before to minimize the amount of death there will be in your qt
Airline tuning works pretty good to suck em out without taking out too much water, or you could use that awesome 3 micron sock I know you probably still have somewhere to catch the planaria as you siphon water through the sock into a sump or buck
 
And manual removal routinely for a little while before to minimize the amount of death there will be in your qt
Airline tuning works pretty good to suck em out without taking out too much water, or you could use that awesome 3 micron sock I know you probably still have somewhere to catch the planaria as you siphon water through the sock into a sump or buck

LOL!
 
Maybe we should have a fragging demo/workshop and show how to prepare frags for a swap and how to acclimate and prep them for your tank when you get home.

Or write up an official club procedure.

Soon? Picking up our first frag from fellow club member tomorrow and in reading this, I want to make sure I have a good procedure.

I see a couple of great procedures listed in this thread and hoping someone will weigh in on their favorite.

I get three key steps right now: acclimating from frag water to tank water; visually inspecting/manually cleaning; and the dip in Bayer. (Not necessarily in that order.)

Thanks, all! And can't wait to see @ashburn2k tomorrow.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
L/B Block, you are missing the part that I advocate the most ... setting up a quarantine tank!
It can be a small 10 gallon tank with hang on back (HOB) filter to provide water flow and to break the surface of the water (for gas exchange) and a heater. Or it could be a full blown nano tank set up with skimmer.

Acclimating a frag is to ensure that it has the best chance to survive being put into your tank with a possibly large change of salinity, temperature, etc, etc.
Dipping a frag is to kill off any unwanted pests (or attempting to kill off pests) that may come over from the donor tank (flatworms, acro eating bugs, etc, etc)
Quarantining a frag protects your other corals and your main tank from possibly other issues that may come from the donor tank, and may catch things that the dip did not get.

QT also allows you to observe the frag without fish in your DT eating at it, etc, etc. And to make sure it is healthy before putting it into your DT. Also, you may want to pre-mount it on a rock which is in your QT for transfer to the main tank.

Etc, etc.

You need to protect your frag from your tank, and your tank from the frag.

V
 
I first drip/temp acclimate. Then I use 10-12ml of Bayer for every 8oz of fresh tank water. Soak for 7-10 min. Then I soak in fresh tank water for 7-10 min. And then I do one more soak in new tank water for 7-10 again. Gotta make sure to get off that Bayer before it goes into DT.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Following this process! I also have some CoralRX but I like a process that I can follow. So I'll do the above. Drip acclimating now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Following this process! I also have some CoralRX but I like a process that I can follow. So I'll do the above. Drip acclimating now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I also remove coral from any frag plugs or rocks if possible and replace with new ones. Most eggs/cysts supposedly live on plugs or rock.
 
My "process", know the tank that the frag come from. If that tank is better kept than mine then I just toss it in :)
That's funny, but it was you that just posted about all the different pests you had found in your tank right?

Do what you can to avoid getting pests but in the end I think it's kind of a rite of passage that everyone goes through. Part of the hard part is recognizing what to look for.
 
Following this process! I also have some CoralRX but I like a process that I can follow. So I'll do the above. Drip acclimating now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Question: how long should the "dip" on the Bayer be? We thought 7-8 minutes, but that is a soak not a dip... we've not had luck with our frags, vs. the corals we got from Aquatic Collection (we didn't dip) - so I'm wondering if we dipped too long!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Question: how long should the "dip" on the Bayer be? We thought 7-8 minutes, but that is a soak not a dip... we've not had luck with our frags, vs. the corals we got from Aquatic Collection (we didn't dip) - so I'm wondering if we dipped too long!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I usually dip/soak up to 10 min in Bayer. Usually around 7 min. There isn't a coral in my tank I haven't used Bayer on.
 
I follow Randy's protocol and all recent coral have survived (in the last 3 months, over 20+ frags)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My guess is we are starting the corals too high in the tank, and need better control over the lighting! But good to know we've got the protocol right. (2 corals lost so far... the green leather toadstool to lighting we think; and the rhodactis mushroom, which L butchered trying to pull it from the plug when we found bubble algae.)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Shrooms will die if you forcefully pry it from the rock. Not a recommended action.

Toadstools don't need much light. I'd place it close to the sand bed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top