Kessil

Overflow help

Your right coral reefer, Going to pick up the ghost box from reef savy, drill 2 holes and still has the same concept at bean animal overflow with 3 holes in the box you guys are very helpful thanks

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I think there is a huge wait list for the ghost overflow from Reef Savy and they are the most expensive option.

Synergy Reef makes a similar overflow and you can order that direct or from Neptune.

EBay has some manufactures offering similar style overflows.


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I'll make sure I'll check those out, you guys are awesome. Hope to meet if not all then most of you guys and gals. So I figured out what overflow route I want to go just need to figure out how to get it drilled still... on a scale 1 to 10 how difficult is it to drill... I'm pretty mechanically engineered, but never drilled glass, it's a scary thought lol

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Drilling the glass is not that hard if you are careful. The main things to pay attention are low speed to avoid heating the drill bit and not much pressure on glass. I drilled 5 holes an old 6ft tank years back when I setup my 125g. I used:
- diamond coated glass drill bits, such as these, http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/diamond-coated-glass-drill-bits.html. You'll find more in other places such as ebay & amazon, maybe even LFS.
- a battery operated drill. I like that over my plugged-in drill because it can run at a lower speed.
- plumber's putty from HD, https://www.google.com/search?q=plumber's+putty&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8. With this you will lay a circle "wall" on the glass around the hole to hold water to cool down the bit.

Pay extra attention to pressure & drill smooth when you reach the end. Usually you will create a small hole in one part of the drill circle & the water will start dripping through, then you need to continue cutting out the disc all around. Make sure not to press & hold the dill steady, to avoid breaking large chips in the glass.

Search online and you'll find plenty of videos and instructions. I also suggest to have some practice before: buy a piece of scrap glass from a local shop and try drilling that.

My tank glass was 3/8". Each hole took me around 20 minutes to drill, with a few short stops to stretch & relax :).

For me, the thicker the glass, the easier was to drill it. It takes more time, but thicker glass is not that sensitive to pressure. I managed to crack 2 30g tanks trying to drill them after I did my 125g tank.

Also, if you need to drill from outside, you need to find a solution to lay the tank down with the back side up and horizontal. Being a semi-circle tank in front, that might be a challenge. Maybe you could drill the holes for overflow from inside as suggested earlier.
 
Seems you got a nice Oceanic tank. Before drilling you'd need to be certain the back is not tempered; I believe the front in the bow/half cylinder is tempered in all of them; bottom you are certain it is, due to a sticker? Polarized sunglasses can help in finding if the glass is tempered.
The Ghost? overflow from ebay looks really nice.
Having the canopy I'd do as Mike suggested, returns over the rim.

You will not find another place like BAR, welcome to the club!!
 
Yes indeed it's a Oceanic, you know your stuff, I see you all around on here, there is a sticker on the bottom indicating it's tempered glass. What would I be looking for with polarized sunglasses?

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Just put returns over the back. Way easier. Looks pretty much the same. Works just as good.
I agree especially if you keep the canopy, you won't really see the return pipe over the back rim, and it will give you more flexibility to reposition the return.


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You'd see a pattern on the glass surface when hold at certain angle in relation to the light; not exactly geometrical shapes but that would be an indication of the glass being tempered. Note that sunglasses are not all polarized glasses; I do some fishing and have "fishing glasses" that are polarized to reduce glare on the water and when I'm driving with those glasses on, I can see the tempered glass on most vehicles.
 
I'll give it a try, we need to hook up and fish sometime I fish a lot around the bay and picking up a boat soon... too many projects lol

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Before you buy the ghost overflow box, make sure you decide on all measurements first including not just size of holes and spacing, but also dimensions of external boxes so you know all the bean animal pipes in it will fit and ideal relative to the water line there too. I also went length to decide the position and height of the weir slots to ensure the water line in the display tank will not be visible (i.e. will be hidden by the brace of the tank - there is a calculator somewhere online that will estimate height of water above the bottom of the slot at given overflow size and flow rate).

It took me 60-90 minutes to drill each hole. The hardest part of this task is patience - so make yourself comfortable (ear muffler is a must), take frequent breaks and deep breath ;-) as we all have a tendency to push things faster unless you see signs of problems.

I also used painter's tape to hold glass on the exit surface and use g clamp to hold a piece of wood against painter's tape.

Practice on a spare glass which also helps to check fitting with your bulkhead.

Limit the drill to low speed. Higher speed creates heat As well as displacement of cooling water which will wearout your diamond tips.

I have the drill guide (amazon link below) if u want to borrow. Really helps to keep the drill bit from skidding.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V3UONCW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I might take you on that offer Julius, I'm waiting till Monday to call some glass places everything is closed on the weekends. I just ordered the eBay modular marine low profile system last night, if I can't find anyone to drill I'll definitely take you on that offer. You guys in here giving me a lot more confidence

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Some one says the wider the more quiet.

I also chose 1.5" emergency drain and 1.5" secondary drain (main drain is 1"), so the external box needs width to fit all of them.

Btw, order a $15 cover - it helps with noise and evaporation
 
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