Neptune Aquatics

32G ADA

Ibn

Ibn

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Wasn't planning on upgrading from my 10G tank, but ran out of space and someone I knew was downgrading. Anyways, here are the details:

Tank: 24x18x18 ADA tank, bottom drilled in the back right corner
Bottom and back were already painted black, which is what I prefer, so it'll stay that way.

Additional equipment/planning:
Light: Giesemann 230+ (1x150W Radium 20KK + 2x24W T5 - UVL super actinic + giesemann actinic plus)
Skimmer: H&S A110-F2000
Flow: Vortech MP40W in drybox
Sump: ...
Chiller: Teco TR-10 with heater module

The tank is currently sitting over at Max's place, waiting for the stand and the vortech dry box to be built. Stand will be ADA style made of poplar and painted black. The other piece that I'm asking Max to build is a drybox for the vortech. It'll function as a drybox to house the MP40W as well as to hide the two holes in the back right corner. Quince (person that I picked up the tank from) drew up the design.

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That's it for now. Gotta stop by AS to check on the progress and also to check out their sump designs later today.
 
Yeah, this is a HUGE upgrade for me. :D

I've actually been running a different fixture on the tank for awhile now. I sold off the 2x150w oceanlight to a couple of friends for a song and picked up a giesemann 230+ to replace them with.
 
Back on track. Spoke to Gen today and he's gonna get started on the sump; should be done by Monday. If anyone is looking for any custom acrylic work, talk to Gen! Great guy to deal with.

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Had a friend bend some 3/4" conduit before the holidays and painted them black. Just gotta order some plumbing parts and start on that.

Took a look at a prototype LED fixture that's currently being built and it looks very interesting. Not sure how it measure up PAR wise, but more to follow on that later.
 
Looking good.

One question though....Why didn't you just thread the acrylic piece so you didn't have to use a bolt?
 
Ahhh. Hopefully he sees my post and starts to tap them. It makes for a more secure connection. The bolt/nut method tends to slip IME.
 
Main lights went off and while looking at the tank, I noticed a worm crawling up from the black acrylic bottom...At first I thought it was a common bristleworm. Then more of it shows up and this was definitely not a run of the mill kind. The front end was sharper but the body flattened out as more of it came up. Then I noticed the pronounced white bristles. Just looking at it wave them around gave me the jitters (I've been stung by bristleworms before and this thing looks like it was the Godzilla of bristleworms). What's fascinating was that as the worm came out, the white bristles changed colors. Under the blue T5s, they were emitting a flourescent green color. :eek:

I pulled it out with some ADA pincettes (I think I took ~1/2 the worm before the back end withdrew below the acrylic). When not moving and curled up, the amputated front end is ~2".

Anyone care to ID this (fireworm)?
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Not sure what it eats, but tips of my shades of fall are missing tissue in a spiral path.
 
That thing is gnarly!

Hey Eric- I'm wondering if there was a reason why you drilled to bottom and not that back wall? I'm wondering if there are advantages or disadvantages in drilling at certain spots.
 
Someone else that I helped purchased the tank from AFA actually drilled it. The bottom wasn't tempered (I called George up to verify) so that's why it was drilled there. I didn't ask about the backpanel.
 
Additional shots now that the tank is set up. :p

Overflow box with drybox to house MP40W. The return is on the left side of the overflow box.
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Sump being built by Gen.
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Water testing in the backyard before it goes inside.
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