90 Gallon forced upgrade no more peninsula.

Discussion in 'Tank Journals' started by xcaret, Aug 17, 2009.

  1. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

    As most people, got some time to spare; been painting a house but colors have not been chosen for the bedroom so seems this week besides Th and Fr will be dedicated to complete the stand.
    The tank is an Oceanic 70G no center brace and drilled for two bulkheads 1.5" each, yes two 1.5"!! on one side
    I made the overflow box out of PVC but think I will change that one to plexy from scraps at TAP (cheap) I'm feeling more comfortable working with acrylic now, at least for smaller things. The box shown is a smaller one going into a 30G reef but first I have to drill the tank, just need to get the circular diamond saw. It will be similar and will use egg-crate instead of routing the teeth.
    Stand is 3/4" plywood reinforced with 1" pine and will have two large doors, one per side, as for the top (canopy) most likely will have a flip front since the tank has to slide in place somehow.
    The front corners meet at an angle of 45 which was hard to get it right, couple times had to re-do the cut with the circular saw.
    As far as color I don't know what color on it red cherry/mahogany is my favorite but since I'll end up selling it on CL might as well leave it plain for the person to chose one.


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  2. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

    Lots of progress on the stand, sanded the finish nail holes after filling them and cut the access flip front canopy part.
    Next step is to cut the doors, one on each side 30" wide and as tall as possible to facilitate access. An old 30 long will do the part of the sump, just need to re-do the silicon and place baffles, I might opt for a regular 30 as a sump and have space under the stand for reactors or storage.
    I test fitted an Aquactinics 36" MH/T5 combo that's practically brand new and I just have it stored doing nothing but the actual lighting will sit on a shelf/platform that will have the reflector/s sitting on top and supplemental T5 or VHO's fixed from beneath the shelf.
    BTW that's me 30 years ago...

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  3. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

    I had to care for my kids most of today, tomorrow school starts and my wife has some appointments so she worked Sunday to have tomorrow kind of free??
    Anyway, late in the afternoon I decided it was time to cut the doors and place the sump to be tank. My brother asked me what the hell am I to do with this tank; well the hobby isn't cheap so I have to fund it somehow.
    As far as color, I have not decided yet, maybe I'll swing to HD to check stains.

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  4. Reef Keeper

    Reef Keeper Guest

    That's really coming along nicely :0)
     
  5. Elite

    Elite Guest

    Looking good man.. Are you going to make side doors for the canopy also??
     
  6. tuberider

    tuberider Guest

    Looks good Mario!
     
  7. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    Looks really sweet, once that sucker is stained up it should look ultra sweet, personally I'm a fan of either the ultra darks if there's serious wood grain sexiness, or the reddish browns (but only when varnished to look shiny).

    Out of curiosity how is the entire top part of the canopy held up? It doesn't look like much of anything is.
     
  8. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

    Thanks guys,

    Phong: I was looking into side doors but since I have to slide the tank in, went for a flip top at the very front, still, have the markings for the side doors. I intent to place a plywood sheet running the length of the tank where the reflectors sit, instead of hanging and two fluorescent (either VHO, this ones I have or T5 meaning buying reflectors and everything else) attached at the bottom of the plywood; this way means no side doors but if I go with a light fixture then side doors would be nice but I want to keep the structural integrity of the upper part as much as possible and that means no cutting where is not needed.

    Mike: I'm a fan of deep colors too, redish I like a lot, that's why you may find on CL Bombay Mahogany stands. The plywood has a nice grain but that's it, no swirling or sexy figures.
    The top part has an inner support/frame 1"x2" which had me re-think about the canopy doors, the tank would not slide into the stand from the back, tank is 18 1/2 and in between the two vertical pieces of wood 17"
    I screwed and glued the wood to the 3/4" plywood and hole pocketed where needed

    This is the second peninsula stand I make, the other one was a 50G Bioreef my brother polished to like new condition and he sold it without even being finished.

    Today I'm trashed, worked all day long and had no time to work on the stand, maybe on Wednesday.

    Again thank you for your positive comments, it's great being here on BAR

    Mario


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  9. adolfo425

    adolfo425 Guest

    Very nice tank stand and canopy.

    Very good wood working skills you got there i am in the process f skinning my stand.
     
  10. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

    Thanks Adolfo !

    My original plan was to skin the stand with bamboo flooring, toast color, kind of brownish compared to natural color bamboo but $100 extra just to experiment...
    I'm just waiting for someone to have free surplus of bamboo flooring to experiment working with it.
     
  11. adolfo425

    adolfo425 Guest

    check out Will's tank he has his in bamboo and i think i am going to follow suite with my stand.
     
  12. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    hehe, where did I see the bamboo flooring bit before... someone on this board? I'm curious about that as well, mostly because I really am curious about how it holds up to salt water.
     
  13. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

    plans called for the bamboo to be coated with a marine clear something (spar, epoxy, lacquer) since it's already finished it needs only some coating to protect it. Liquid nails to hold it in place since it's not structural and very few finish nails.
     
  14. Elite

    Elite Guest

    http://www.bareefers.org/home/node/7660?page=2
     
  15. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

    I saw that on RC, MARS site I asked him about pictures just to get an idea, I like the bamboo in a vertical form; those trim pieces are expensive, VERY expensive and more if you mess one up.
     
  16. Elite

    Elite Guest

    You got good skill man.. I'm sure you won't mess it up. :)
     
  17. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

    Thanks !
    ...but I did already, the blade bent when cutting one of the doors and is not straight so need to sand it a little, maybe 1/8" and put a little bondo on one of the doors, one corner just snapped when cutting it off.
    I've been working last couple days for a friend, doing some wiring for a huge green house (no permits needed for this) in the backyard of his house; pulling wire sure is a royal pain when one does it by himself.
    Today I worked on the sump/fuge tank, due to space limitations went for a 29G tank 30" instead of the 30 long, glued some plexi together for the first partition and then used silicon to fix it in place, tomorrow I'll make the bubble trap for the return partition, need to get some scrap plexi from TAP.
    I make my sumps using ER skimmers since they are popular, footprint in the skimmer section is very important, an RS-80 might be a miss of a perfect match for this little tank, that's if no excessive bio-load.
    I like the fuge section to be as big as possible so I consider the equipment to be used, like a Mag 9.5 for the return or an external Poseidon PS3 (for this one I need to drill the tank)
    The person who bought the tank was planning on using an Ocean Motions 4 way so I still have it, brand new. Most likely I'll put two returns from the front of the tank and use Lock Lines. Water movement I have two Seio 1500 with matching controller and the idea is to have the power heads beneath the OF box, not showing or barely from the side. The plywood covers about 3 or 4" of the end of the tank. I'll be checking RC for a used and cheap Outer Orbit Pro or if I can squeeze an 8 bulb T5.
    I think will be easier to service the lights if they are a prefab fixture than making a shelf and fit DIY the lights.

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  18. Reef Keeper

    Reef Keeper Guest

    Hi Mario,

    Is that a glass sump?

    I ask because, I know you have live rock in your sump upstairs, and was wondering if rocks were going in to a glass sump on this build. But I know you know what you're doing. It's hard to tell from the picture.

    Your build is inspiring. I am learning stuff, about a custom build, from your posts.

    Thanks,
    Joel
     
  19. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

    Hi Joel

    It's a glass tank, I don't plan to have it with rock or if some, nothing that could collapse and break it.
    Thanks for the kind words !!

    I haven't worked as I planned on the tank, odd jobs showing up and have to take the money, it does not grow like caulerpa !!
    Sunday I decided to cut doors on the canopy sides; reaching equipment from the front all the way to the back would require a basketball player height and arm reach. I did made a little mistake but nothing some filler can't solve.
    Sump is ready and fits a small ER RS80 or a bigger cousin CS6-2.

    The good or should I say great thing about the peninsula tank is that my wife loved the stand and mentioned to me we should put this one where the 46 sits but not in the form of peninsula, just flat against the wall.
     
  20. Reef Keeper

    Reef Keeper Guest

    Gotcha.

    Yea, if money only did grow like caulerpa.....

    I saw a couple of your posts, one about the small mistake you were able to correct. That must have been a big relief'.


    Hydnos are happy, and I have some new additions, compliments of Jeremy. I posted them on my Journal page.

    Can hardy wait to see you new 70.


    Keep on reefing

    Joel
     

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