ATO
- Thread starter denzil
- Start date
eldiablosrt8
Guest
jbj works ok have had a few issues with the actual unit not operating, but if you can afford it i love the Tunze ato....
bondolo
Guest
If you are not in a rush get a used Tunze. Between craigslist and reef central you should find one with in two months for < $100.
I use a low tech float valve on advice from tuberider. $2.95 on eBay. Even if I switched to something else I would probably keep the gravity fed float valve as a backup. If you aren't going to be seeing major evaporation (more than a gallon a day on a 40) then I might not bother with anything more complicated at all. Fill a gallon jug or 5 gallon pail (depending on how often you want to refill) with dilute kalk RODI and use a gravity fed float. Mix up additional kalk in gallon jugs.
One thing that wasn't clear to me when I originally planned. Regardless of your topoff approach you must have a water drop due to evaporation in order for the system to kick in. If your sump has a high surface area to depth ratio the you will have a lot of evap before the top off turns on. Even the fanciest systems seem to require a couple of centimetres of evaporation range. Ideally you'd want a tall narrow sump so that minimal evap will cause the ATO to replenish.
I use a low tech float valve on advice from tuberider. $2.95 on eBay. Even if I switched to something else I would probably keep the gravity fed float valve as a backup. If you aren't going to be seeing major evaporation (more than a gallon a day on a 40) then I might not bother with anything more complicated at all. Fill a gallon jug or 5 gallon pail (depending on how often you want to refill) with dilute kalk RODI and use a gravity fed float. Mix up additional kalk in gallon jugs.
One thing that wasn't clear to me when I originally planned. Regardless of your topoff approach you must have a water drop due to evaporation in order for the system to kick in. If your sump has a high surface area to depth ratio the you will have a lot of evap before the top off turns on. Even the fanciest systems seem to require a couple of centimetres of evaporation range. Ideally you'd want a tall narrow sump so that minimal evap will cause the ATO to replenish.
Piper
Guest
I'm with bondolo. I gravity feed from a 5 gallon jug to a mechanical float. I'd recommend you look for a well made float if you go that route. Some of the lower quality floats (not necessarily cheaper) have bad seams and can fill up with water and render them useless.
I have the float switches that came with my RA controller still sitting in the bag. I'll eventually get around to hooking those up but only as a way to shut off devices if the sump runs low. And like bondolo, I would also use the mechanical float as a back-up if I ever do use the switches for an ATO.
I think Avast has a pretty slick setup with a mechanical back-up:
Vavast Top-off Kit
~Charlie
I have the float switches that came with my RA controller still sitting in the bag. I'll eventually get around to hooking those up but only as a way to shut off devices if the sump runs low. And like bondolo, I would also use the mechanical float as a back-up if I ever do use the switches for an ATO.
I think Avast has a pretty slick setup with a mechanical back-up:
Vavast Top-off Kit
~Charlie
BAYMAC
Guest
I built mine using some relays, two float switches (still got more - very high quality - need any?) and it controls a peristaltic pump. I use a peristaltic as it pushes the water through my Nilsen (Kalk) reactor. If it got stuck on, it would still not over flow that tank as I matched it to be just below what the tank evaporates in a day.
With what ever ATO you get, be sure its snail proof.
With what ever ATO you get, be sure its snail proof.
Gomer
Guest
I used to use the double float from autotopoff.com and it worked flawlessly. Just a little bulky if you are space limited. I then went with the Elos one...cause it came with my Elos. Worked fine as well.
Actually, I might still have this one in the garage in my box of "extra stuff."
http://autotopoff.com/products/DT1/
If it is what you are looking for, shoot me a PM. (Note, I'm no longer in the Bay Area, so shipping would be necessary).
In truth, I don't think I've read horror stories with any ATO system. If you have a controller and use a less fancy ATO system (basic float --> relay types), then you can limit the times of day the ATO goes on, and the amount of time it can run (max) per slot.
Actually, I might still have this one in the garage in my box of "extra stuff."
http://autotopoff.com/products/DT1/
If it is what you are looking for, shoot me a PM. (Note, I'm no longer in the Bay Area, so shipping would be necessary).
In truth, I don't think I've read horror stories with any ATO system. If you have a controller and use a less fancy ATO system (basic float --> relay types), then you can limit the times of day the ATO goes on, and the amount of time it can run (max) per slot.
Note that a double float switch with good programming can fail also - But just OFF, not ON, so not a big deal.
The water level in sump just drops a bit.
I had that happen. Calcium buildup on the lower float switch.
Also very useful is a true water level sensor.
Not only for ATO, but it also can tell you if the main return pump stops.
I made one, but Reef Angel and a few other controllers sell them one as well.
The water level in sump just drops a bit.
I had that happen. Calcium buildup on the lower float switch.
Also very useful is a true water level sensor.
Not only for ATO, but it also can tell you if the main return pump stops.
I made one, but Reef Angel and a few other controllers sell them one as well.
eldiablosrt8
Guest
BAYMAC said:denzil said:
famous last words...
(if you have a sump, that is the only place to put a ATO- snails make it into sumps, trust me on that one)
Snail make it outside of tank too, crazy little boogers
denzil
Guest
I have a preventative measure in mind like maybe surrounding the float sensors with acrylic with holes to still allow the water level to be represented without any snail intrusion.eldiablosrt8 said:BAYMAC said:denzil said:
famous last words...
(if you have a sump, that is the only place to put a ATO
Snail make it outside of tank too, crazy little boogers
aqua-nut
Supporting Member
That's what the 'autotopoff.com' folks do. They use PVC. I'd favor opaque guards because of algae issues. It's still a good idea to have some EASY way to open the 'snailguard' and clean it from time to time.
After some time, life manages to find it's way into every possible niche. (see 'Jurassic Park') Thats usually a bad thing for moving parts!
Murphy seems to design it so nothing bad ever happens when you are watching. As soon as you go out of town, BAMM, that prized fish jumps, snails go on an expedition to the overflow, the anemone thinks its time take a stroll and PG&E decides you really don't need electricity! :cry:
After some time, life manages to find it's way into every possible niche. (see 'Jurassic Park') Thats usually a bad thing for moving parts!
Murphy seems to design it so nothing bad ever happens when you are watching. As soon as you go out of town, BAMM, that prized fish jumps, snails go on an expedition to the overflow, the anemone thinks its time take a stroll and PG&E decides you really don't need electricity! :cry:
As far as covering the float switches : For me, easy to clean is more important than snail guards.
Snails are rare in my sump, but crud is not. And snails are unlikely to jamb two switches.
If you want to get really fancy:
http://www.maxbotix.com/Ultrasonic_Sensors/MB7380.htm
Waterproof, snail proof, has 1 mm resolution.
But ... $100, and a pain to interface with.
Still, I am thinking about it.
Snails are rare in my sump, but crud is not. And snails are unlikely to jamb two switches.
If you want to get really fancy:
http://www.maxbotix.com/Ultrasonic_Sensors/MB7380.htm
Waterproof, snail proof, has 1 mm resolution.
But ... $100, and a pain to interface with.
Still, I am thinking about it.
Scarbird
Supporting Member
For the last couple years I have been dripping diluted 2 part (with ro/di) from two 5 gal jugs (one for alk, 1 for calc) using Drews dosing pumps. No float switches needed. Salinity stays put and no worries about float switches acting up. The pumps drip continuously which keeps the tank constant. The pumps are not made for continuous operation, but I've only had to replace one. This was because it started turning backwards intermittantly. No pump failure though.