Better results with no acclimation

Discussion in 'Fish and Invertebrates' started by hiepatitis, Nov 5, 2009.

  1. hiepatitis

    hiepatitis Guest

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    I've always read from many sources that you wanted to take time acclimating fish so as not to shock them. So that's what I always did. Dripped for about an hour.

    Gresh stated that if the acclimation went past 30 mins there would be less dissolved oxygen which I never even thought about.

    Lately I've decided to acclimate for only a short period, maybe only 10 mins. With this routine I've actually had 100% success so far as opposed to maybe 75% before.

    I used this method for a Scott's Fairy Wrasse, Chevron Tang, Bluethroat Trigger, Naso Tang, and all are healthy and eating. They fish behavior observed was also much different. The fish ate within a day of introduction and were much less frightened.
     
  2. GreshamH

    GreshamH Guest

    For hobbyists getting fish from an LFS locally where no travel is involved, little to no acclimation is just fine. I think people tend to over acclimate which just causes more stress :)
     
  3. glee

    glee Supporting Member

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    i drip and use an airpump to keep DO up. the bag is in my sump so that the temp is constant. i always release new fish when all the lights are off too.
     
  4. sfboarders

    sfboarders Guest

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    Sorry to hijack but on the same topic. Do you recommend using an airstone when drip acclimating?
     
  5. glee

    glee Supporting Member

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    i dont use an airstone, but i do keep the airline weighted with a rock and rubberband. you just need surface agitation.
     
  6. GreshamH

    GreshamH Guest

    The little agitation you'd get from a drip is no where near enough to drive the DO up. Try using a DO meter sometime and check it out :)
     
  7. hiepatitis

    hiepatitis Guest

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    Wouldn't the airstone change the pH as well?
     
  8. GreshamH

    GreshamH Guest

    Whooops.... I thought glee said he was using airline for the dripping, not an air pump. Selective reading at it's finest :) Retract my last post please :)
     
  9. glee

    glee Supporting Member

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    yeah, i've used a DO meter among other lab grade probes when i took a water chem class a couple years ago. an airline tube dripping at a rate of 1 drop per second is not enough to keep DO at necessary ranges. i think DO should be somewhere around 7ppm, but i would have to check my lab notebook to be sure. aeration of water does keep pH up, but i'm not sure what is in an airstone or how much it would increase.
     
  10. GreshamH

    GreshamH Guest

    I didn't mean have you ever used one but rather have you tested you style ;)

    it depends on temp and salinity. 7ppm is a bit low IIRC but sufficient.
     
  11. tuberider

    tuberider Guest

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    I've always wondered why online companies want you to do such elaborate acclimation, it seems to me that as the DO and pH rise after shipping that the NH4 is converted to NH3 making the water more harmful. To me it seems logical that you want to shoot for a relatively short efficient acclimation in order to avoid gill burn. AFA, buying from your LFS, I don't acclimate at all other than temperature, I figure where the fish are going has better water quality than your average LFS, so that will make them happy.
     
  12. JAR

    JAR Supporting Member

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    A lot if shops keep fish in Hypo salinity. I am usually most concerned about that.
     
  13. GreshamH

    GreshamH Guest

    Oh no, not hypo, that's less then brackish and marine fish won't live long at that salinity ;) They may keep it a bit lower but never enough to worry much about.
     
  14. Reef Keeper

    Reef Keeper Supporting Member

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    +1
     
  15. kinetic

    kinetic Webmaster

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    I usually just acclimate for 15 minutes with a drip, so far so good. Inverts I give them a full 30 =P
     
  16. bookfish

    bookfish Guest

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    I think it's important to acclimate based on the differences between the water the animal is in and the water the animal is going into. PH, temp, SG, all have to be taken into account as well as determining how fast the animal 'needs' to be out of it's bag or original water. I usually ask at the LFS or wholesaler about the 3 parameters and then try to take into account bag time and temp change. I always do at least a fast drip acclimation unless it's an emergency. Even if all 3 parameters (PH, SG, Temp)were exactly the same, there's a lot we don't measure for.
     
  17. Thales

    Thales Past President

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    Most of the good online places now take this into account in their documentation - I also believe the good wholesalers do as well. The days of hours of acclimation should be behind us because they aren't needed. An hour at most if the animal is sensitive and you know the bagged water is good. Otherwise get it out in 15-30 min. If you think the water is bad in the bag, float the unopened bag to match temp, then get it out and into new water asap.

    I do 5-10 minutes with a rapid addition of tank water, then make sure none of the store water go into my tank. I also put the fish in a deli container and let them get their bearing on the new tank before letting them go.
     
  18. Factor-5

    Factor-5 Guest

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    I got lazy and did a 10-15 min aclimation yesterday on a red lizardfish. It was eating within the hour but then again I did buy it from Ocean Treasures....
     
  19. GreshamH

    GreshamH Guest

    lizardfish are bullet proof :)
     

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