Biocube 29, The Resurrection

Discussion in 'Tank Journals' started by revnull, Nov 5, 2016.

  1. revnull

    revnull Guest

    My ATO is a mishmash of things. As it stands today, I'm using a Tunze Osmolator Universal for water level sensing. When the water level is low, the Osmo triggers a 12v automotive relay. This causes the relay to bridge 2 poles that are connected to my Apex break out box. When the Apex senses that switch port is "closed" it powers the PMUP on the 24v port on my EB832. Once the water level is reached, the Osmo kills voltage to the relay, the Apex switch port opens, and power is killed to the PMUP.
    This rube goldberg machine can be greatly simplified if Neptune would release the optical level sensors they use in the DDR as a general purpose sensor.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Flagg37

    Flagg37 Officer at large

    Yeah, but then they'd rob you of your opportunity to be so ingenious.
     
  3. Vhuang168

    Vhuang168 Supporting Member

    I'm using the Avast ATO setup but it connects directly to the I/O port on the Apex bypassing the relay and breakout box.


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  4. revnull

    revnull Guest

    Can you please elaborate? I'd love to optimize if possible and minimize my potential failure points.
     
  5. Vhuang168

    Vhuang168 Supporting Member

  6. revnull

    revnull Guest

    Today, I decided to up my water change game.

    Step 1 was to add a 2nd RO/DI chamber to ensure absolute 0TDS.
    [​IMG]

    Step 2, install and plumb a new 35 gallon norwesco holding tank from Tractor Supply in Gilroy.
    [​IMG]

    I added a 3/4" 90 degree threaded street elbow as a "pickup" tube so i can drain the tank to as close to bottom as possible.
    [​IMG]

    My float valve mounted near the neck of the main opening so I can make fine adjustments without dunking my arm in the tank.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    3/4" street elbow -> ball valve -> union -> barb. Still need to find some good flexible hose to finish it all up.
    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Flagg37

    Flagg37 Officer at large

    I like what you did with the drain and having the 90 degree fitting on the inside.

    Tell me about the reasoning behind going to 3/4" for the float valve. I've just got my rodi going straight to the float switch with the 1/4" tubing.
     
  8. revnull

    revnull Guest

    I think my description may have been misleading. The drain side is all 3/4". The input is all 1/4".
     
  9. Flagg37

    Flagg37 Officer at large

    Ahh, I see now. I also had a hard time seeing the tubing coming out from the ball valve.
     
  10. revnull

    revnull Guest

    Just a little sharpie to highlight the raised numbers. Not sure why it doesn't come like this from the manufacturer.
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Calde0920

    Calde0920 Guest

    Wish I could set something like this up
     
  12. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

    Can I ask a question about your Biocube back section? I see you modified the middle chamber, but before that, did you have a LOUD water cascade in there? Just set up the same tank today (used), removed a huge amount of bioballs that were in the middle chamber and added water so it's between the Min/Max on the return chamber. It seems very loud in that middle chamber.
     
  13. revnull

    revnull Guest

    I also bought mine used. It already had the bioballs removed. You can reduce the amount of noise by filling the rear chamber past the "Max" line. I have mine filled to about 3/4 full. I think the max line was to maintain a wet/dry filer with the bioballs. No longer needed with them pulled.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2017
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  14. revnull

    revnull Guest

    A few small updates to my RO/DI water setup. Swapped my ball valve for a stop valve. It gives me a little better control of the flow without the added height of a full gate valve.
    [​IMG]

    Decided to try a couple of flexable sprinkler hoses for my fill hose. I'm getting a few drips of a leak at the coupler in the middle. Not sure why. I may just switch back to a 3/4" barb and flexable bilge tubing.
    [​IMG]

    I re-plumbed my RO/DI setup to separate the RO from the DI section. The old setup used a 4 canister bracket with a single bracket add on. After bit of reading, I moved my pressure gauge between my stage 3 carbon block and my RO membrane input line. Not sure why it was not plumbed like this to begin with, but I bought the system a decade ago so who knows. Now the RO stages are on a more compact 3 canister bracket and my dual DI stages and new TDS meter are on a separate 2 canister bracket. Small changes, but I like the way it all turned out.
    [​IMG]
     
    Calde0920 likes this.
  15. Vhuang168

    Vhuang168 Supporting Member

    Is that a brass valve !?! That's not a good idea, I would switch it out for a plastic one asap!


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  16. Flagg37

    Flagg37 Officer at large

    That was my first thought too but then I was thinking maybe it's not so bad since it's fresh water.
     
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  17. revnull

    revnull Guest

    It's actually copper colored PVC. They had a white version but only in slip/slip. I wanted threaded, so opted for the off color. The only metal part is the screw that holds the handle on the valve shaft.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2017
  18. Gablami

    Gablami Supporting Member

    Psych!


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  19. rygh

    rygh Supporting Member

    Nice water setup!

    Those flexible sprinkler pipes leak over time. I used them for a while. No more.
     
  20. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer President

    Why?
     

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