Building a stand for my 210G tank

Discussion in 'DIY' started by Elite, Mar 26, 2007.

  1. Elite

    Elite Guest

    Will this be able to support a 210G tank (54x30x30)?
    [​IMG]

    Sorry I'm not good with 3D drawing :D .. What you see is from the front. I will add corner brackets for the top. I don't want the center brace. I was thinking about using 4x6 but that would be way over kill and make the stand very heavy. What you guy think?
     
  2. Natterjak

    Natterjak Guest

    When you say you don't want a center brace, do you mean in the front, or on the top (crossbraces)?

    I think if you want to not have any legs in the middle, it might be sturdier to laminate two 2x6's together, like a header. Or even two 2x4's laminated together - from what I've read, that would be sturdier and less prone to twist than a 4x4.
     
  3. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    I'd use 2x6s as the main support across the top rather than 4x4 if you want to do without a center brace.
     
  4. CitS

    CitS Guest

    54"?
    I think 4x4 is enough.
    and 2x6 would look "tall" in that mid section.
    (FYI, a 2x4 is 1 1/2 inches by 3 1/2, makes a slight difference in your drawing)
     
  5. Elite

    Elite Guest

    I don't want the middle leg or center brace ;D ..

    I was thinking about using 2x6 but you don't think that's way over kill??

    Cits, yeah I know. even the 4x4 is not really 4x4 ???
     
  6. CitS

    CitS Guest

    Hmmm....
    I would think 2 2x4's would be ok.
    But, I'm going to call a friend tommorow. He's a cabinet maker.
    He might have a better clue. ( I'm curious now)
     
  7. Elite

    Elite Guest

    I found this on RC. The dimensions of the tank is almost the same as my tank. Man if I have to build a wood stand like this, I think I will look into metal stand.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. CitS

    CitS Guest

    Wow...
    That looks like over kill.
    my 240 stand wasn't that heavy duty... :D
     
  9. Natterjak

    Natterjak Guest

    That seems like overkill - is that all 2x6's? Are you planning on skinning yours in plywood? If so, you won't need anything nearly that beefy.

    Here's the stand we built for our 180 - I didn't double up on the 2x6s on the top frame, but I opted to have two 2x4 legs in the center.

    [​IMG]

    Finished stand in wall, with the 1/2" plywood backing ready to be screwed in place:

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Mr. Ugly

    Mr. Ugly Past President

    [quote author=Natterjak link=topic=1884.msg17905#msg17905 date=1174967591]I think if you want to not have any legs in the middle, it might be sturdier to laminate two 2x6's together, like a header. Or even two 2x4's laminated together - from what I've read, that would be sturdier and less prone to twist than a 4x4.
    [/quote]
    Yup, I'd go with the laminated 2x4's, with 3/4 ply in between the 2 even. Like a diy glue lam beam. Stronger and more stable than solid wood of the same size.
     
  11. CitS

    CitS Guest

    Nice Natterjak
     
  12. Elite

    Elite Guest

    So I can get away with 2x4 instead of 4x4 for the top frame. I can return the 4x4. Those sucker cost way more than 2x4 ;D ..

    I bought some of the strongest wood glue I can find at HD. I will get some 3/4" plywood too.
     
  13. Natterjak

    Natterjak Guest

    Yes, two 2x4's with a piece of plywood sandwiched in between will be a lot stronger than a single 4x4.
     
  14. kinetic

    kinetic Webmaster

    what kind of wood glue is it? (brand etc?)
     
  15. Raddogz

    Raddogz Guest

    I used Gorilla Glue to as well as screws to create nice tight joints as well as to stop moisture from getting into the joints.

    You can use the Tightbond glue (I think it's the blue cap) - it's pretty strong. Elmer's has it's own poly glue which works well, if you don't want to use Gorilla Glue.

    Stay away from the Nail Power poly glue as it takes forever to setup. After I used a third of the bottle it skinned over in the stupid bottle (grrrrrr).

    Pocket screw joinery works really well.
     
  16. Elite

    Elite Guest

    Thanks Natterjak!!

    Art,
    I bought this http://www.liquidnails.com/ViewProductDetails.do?productId=54

    According to HD, it's the strongest glue that they sell.
     
  17. Natterjak

    Natterjak Guest

    I used Tightbond (II, I think), and that worked really well. The wood would NOT come apart, hehe.

    I agree with Eileen, I really liked pocket joinery. Was quick and easy to do, and makes strong joints. Lowes carries the Kreg rig/kit, which is what I used and would recommend. I bought this other rig at first at Home Depot, and the bit that came with it was crappy - it broke after just a couple uses. I've used the Kreg over and over with no problems.
     
  18. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    I used "Liquid Nail" I'm unsure if that's the same kind as eileen is talking about. But just about any wood glue should be good.

    I opted for using biscuits for many of the legs rather than screws.
     
  19. Elite

    Elite Guest

    Where do you get Tightbond II?? Those idiots at HD can't help you with anything. Ask them a question and they give you a dumb look. If Lowes close to my house, I wouldn't shop there. I like OSH because they can really help out if you have questions but they don't have a lot of stuff.
     
  20. Raddogz

    Raddogz Guest

    Liquid Nails works well, but is not like the poly glue which expands like foam as it is curing.

    I used the poly glue as an adhesive to hold the wood together and as a seam filler. It expands as it dries.
     

Share This Page