Building a stand for my 210G tank

Discussion in 'DIY' started by Elite, Mar 26, 2007.

  1. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    See i didn't want an expanding foam, I was not concerned with water falling in cracks (ironic considering the usage), but what I did want were no undue stresses.

    Phong, simply ask where they keep wood glue. You should see Tightbond there.
     
  2. Elite

    Elite Guest

    Ok.. I'm bring those 4x4 and the liquid nails back today. I will see if I can find some Tightbond. How fast does this dry?
     
  3. Natterjak

    Natterjak Guest

    It's pretty quick, but I didn't really time it, just glued and clamped the pieces together and let them sit for a while. I think it's pretty dried and set within a half hour, but it may set even faster than that. We had to do a bunch at once at one point, and had to move pretty quickly around.

    I got the Tightbond II at HD, should be where all the other wood glues are.
     
  4. Raddogz

    Raddogz Guest

    Just remember this wet weather is going to make drying time take longer.

    Make sure your kids don't ride their tricycles into the thing :D
     
  5. CitS

    CitS Guest

    I just talk to a cabinet maker, he says the tipical rule of thumb is
    1 inch per foot of span.
    So, for the 5 foot span you have should be 2x6's
    But....since you load weight is higher you may want to consider 2x8's sandwiched
    or 4x8's (or more)

    (Ouch)

    :eek:
     
  6. Elite

    Elite Guest

    ;D The stand will weight more than the tank with 4x8 ;D
     
  7. Elite

    Elite Guest

    How about this??

    [​IMG]
     
  8. CitS

    CitS Guest

    [quote author=Elite link=topic=1884.msg17943#msg17943 date=1175036365]
    ;D The stand will weight more than the tank with 4x8 ;D
    [/quote]

    Not with a ton and a half of water and rock :D
     
  9. Elite

    Elite Guest

    How about this guys/ladies?? I think this one is stronger. What do you think?

    [​IMG]
    note: 2x4 is only 1.5"x3.5"
     
  10. Natterjak

    Natterjak Guest

    I don't think you need something as beefy as that last one - would be too cumbersome and all that wood is going to take up a lot of space, and it's probably not necessary. The second to last one seems fine, I would still suggest using two 2x4s (laminated and laid on their 1.5" sides) rather than a 4x4. You probably don't need the additional legs on each side either, especially if you go with the legs in the center.

    A big part of how much you need to build up the stand is whether or not you plan on skinning it in plywood. If you plan to skin it all the way around in plywood, that adds a lot of strength to the stand, especially torsional strength, as you don't want the stand to twist at all.
     
  11. Elite

    Elite Guest

    I will skin it with very thin plywood. Maybe 1/2" or so. The back and left side will be open. I will only skin the front and the right side. I'm not sure if I will put anything on top because the tank is glass. It's another reason why I want to make the edges very strong.
     
  12. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    load weight is higher? Did you happen to mention the load weight requires more support? I'm sorry I don't know why that would be the case. I still say go with 2x6s I built one for a 6 foot long stand and it held up fine... then again I did have a center brace :D
     
  13. Mr. Ugly

    Mr. Ugly Past President

    And again, what Bonnie said. What's the deal, Bonnie... you have background in construction? Good recommendations.

    Skinning the top with something decent will add strength. If you want to be really slick, you can build a torsion box for the top.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_box
     
  14. Elite

    Elite Guest

    OK. less work for me :D. I was just worry that it's not strong enough to support the tank.
    I will stick with the second drawing. I will use 2 2x4 with a 3/4" plywood in the middle. I will skin the top, front and right side with 1/2" plywood.
    Thanks Everyone.. I will post pics when I start working on it :) ..
     
  15. Mr. Ugly

    Mr. Ugly Past President

    You can put a horizontal beam in the middle in addition to the ones in the front and back of the stand if you want less deflection on the top. Just like putting extra/closer floor joists.
     
  16. Raddogz

    Raddogz Guest

    40" is good height Phong. My 120g is at that height, the only pain with it is cleaning the bottom or arranging rock.
     
  17. Elite

    Elite Guest

    I can't reach the bottom of the tank even when the tank is on the floor ;D .. It will be fun when I need to pick up something from the bottom :D ..
     
  18. capescuba

    capescuba Supporting Member

    SCUBA ;D
     
  19. Natterjak

    Natterjak Guest

    [quote author=Mr. Ugly link=topic=1884.msg17988#msg17988 date=1175089088]
    And again, what Bonnie said. What's the deal, Bonnie... you have background in construction? Good recommendations.
    [/quote]

    Hehe, I did a LOT of reading when I was building my stand. :)

    Phong, you'll probably want to use 1/2" plywood between the 2x4's, just because that'll add up to 3.5", which is the width of your 2x4 legs. That way the beams will sit flush on the legs. I would kinda still lean towards making a 2x6 header, just so you don't have to have the legs in the center, which would give you more access, but that's a personal preference.

    I agree with Norman though, I would skin the top with plywood (and add one or more crossbraces), just to add strength so it won't be so prone to twist - if you skin the top and the two sides you mentioned, you shouldn't need the corner brackets.
     
  20. Elite

    Elite Guest

    If that is the case, I will use 2x6 for the header. I will do the final drawing when I have a little break time today. :)
    Thanks Bonnie and everyone :)
     

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