High Tide Aquatics

Chemiclean and coral

I was thinking about using a low dose of chemiclean to get rid of the red and green slime algae out of my sump that is impeding my chaeto. I've heard both good and bad things. Ive used it before on a tank with barely any SPS (with airstone) and had great success with no loss. However i've heard of chemiclean killing acros and LPS corals. Ive got some blastos, a trachy and some euphelia and bubble coral. Any tips? I've always followed the instructions and underdosed the chemiclean as well as doing water changes as recommended + carbon.
 
I have never had a problem with it with SPS or LPS or Clams. As long as you follow instructions it should be fine.
 
i disagree. i dosed chemiclean and it destroyed my tank. i had a lot of die off in just a 24 hr period.

everything was effected, and two of my chalices bleached and never came back. everything in my tank lost color.
 
neuro said:
i disagree. i dosed chemiclean and it destroyed my tank. i had a lot of die off in just a 24 hr period.

everything was effected, and two of my chalices bleached and never came back. everything in my tank lost color.
Did you follow the directions to the "T?" What were the parameters like in your tank prior to using Chemi-Clean? And after?

I'm interested in hearing the failures of this product.
 
Its starting to show up in my display dispite having two mp10 on reef crest at 90% power, and a hydor keeping water moving behind the rocks..
 
Fix the problem not the symptom. Phosphate issues? U use ro water? Check your filters. Bondolo was getting cyano due to ammonia making it through his ro filter. Worth checking
 
Coral reefer said:
Fix the problem not the symptom. Phosphate issues? U use ro water? Check your filters. Bondolo was getting cyano due to ammonia making it through his ro filter. Worth checking

My phosphates were high (between .08 and .16 on REd Sea) which i brought down over teh last two weeks to between .02 and .04. I use RO water from my LFS. And my nitrates are undetectable.

Aaanyway, now that my Phosphates are under controll (via GFO). I'd like to wipe out the cyano thats starting to creep up into my show tank. Seeing as its mostly in my sump, the total ammount of cyano die off shouldnt hit the tank too hard and in any case i can use ammonia/nitrate and phosphate sponge to prevent it from spiking during treatment.
 
I have used it. 240G tank when I had a stubborn cyano issue due to a filter failure.
It seemed that once the cyano was heavy, normal phosphate reduction did not help.

I have a lot of softies and LPS.
No problem at all, and it did a good job on the cyano.

BUT!! : I did not exactly follow directions.
1) I used 1/4 the amount it said to use.
2) I took the top cup off my skimmer, but left it running. So it was overflowing like crazy in the sump.
So way more oxygenation than a little air stone.
 
rygh said:
I have used it. 240G tank when I had a stubborn cyano issue due to a filter failure.
It seemed that once the cyano was heavy, normal phosphate reduction did not help.

I have a lot of softies and LPS.
No problem at all, and it did a good job on the cyano.

BUT!! : I did not exactly follow directions.
1) I used 1/4 the amount it said to use.
2) I took the top cup off my skimmer, but left it running. So it was overflowing like crazy in the sump.
So way more oxygenation than a little air stone.

Yea, Im planning on underdosing and doing several treatments spread out over a month as well as overoxygenating the water with my skimmer on, but the gate valve open all the way + a huge airstone.
 
mediumrare said:
rygh said:
I have used it. 240G tank when I had a stubborn cyano issue due to a filter failure.
It seemed that once the cyano was heavy, normal phosphate reduction did not help.

I have a lot of softies and LPS.
No problem at all, and it did a good job on the cyano.

BUT!! : I did not exactly follow directions.
1) I used 1/4 the amount it said to use.
2) I took the top cup off my skimmer, but left it running. So it was overflowing like crazy in the sump.
So way more oxygenation than a little air stone.

Yea, Im planning on underdosing and doing several treatments spread out over a month as well as overoxygenating the water with my skimmer on, but the gate valve open all the way + a huge airstone.

I am not sure several treatments over a month are the best plan.
It took almost a week to really get the skimmer back to normal.
And carbon + gfo have to be removed for almost as long.
So several treatments in a row could result in some rather high nutrient levels,
plus the extended stress might be an issue.

I would suggest just one, let things get back to normal, and wait a bit.
Check phosphates daily after the treatment.
It is quite possible you still have a problem, and the cyano was keeping it low.
If it jumps back up, fix that first. Otherwise treatments will be endless.
 
rygh said:
mediumrare said:
rygh said:
I have used it. 240G tank when I had a stubborn cyano issue due to a filter failure.
It seemed that once the cyano was heavy, normal phosphate reduction did not help.

I have a lot of softies and LPS.
No problem at all, and it did a good job on the cyano.

BUT!! : I did not exactly follow directions.
1) I used 1/4 the amount it said to use.
2) I took the top cup off my skimmer, but left it running. So it was overflowing like crazy in the sump.
So way more oxygenation than a little air stone.

Yea, Im planning on underdosing and doing several treatments spread out over a month as well as overoxygenating the water with my skimmer on, but the gate valve open all the way + a huge airstone.

I am not sure several treatments over a month are the best plan.
It took almost a week to really get the skimmer back to normal.
And carbon + gfo have to be removed for almost as long.
So several treatments in a row could result in some rather high nutrient levels,
plus the extended stress might be an issue.

I would suggest just one, let things get back to normal, and wait a bit.
Check phosphates daily after the treatment.
It is quite possible you still have a problem, and the cyano was keeping it low.
If it jumps back up, fix that first. Otherwise treatments will be endless.

The phosphates dropped only after running GFO.
 
just to note, i used a little under a scoop, because it was for a nano. i had about maybe 8gal total in my nano; not including the rocks.

i don't recall what my parameters were, but weekly water changes of about 20-30% for over a month didn't put a dent in the problem. maybe it was too much water to be changed out? i have been running RODI.

i used it before without any trouble on a softies-only tank a long, long time ago. not this time.
 
Chemiclean can lead to sudden bleaching of corals in an already problematic situation. Just like carbon, it can turn a really yellowish water to crystal clear and that sometime shock the crap out of corals due to more light penetration.
 
robert4025 said:
Chemiclean can lead to sudden bleaching of corals in an already problematic situation. Just like carbon, it can turn a really yellowish water to crystal clear and that sometime shock the crap out of corals due to more light penetration.


Interesting,

My tank water is pretty clear, I run carbon for a few days every two weeks to clear water up between water changes. But i would immagine dimming lights back a few percent would compensate. Like ive mentioned before, my display tank is pretty clean, with clear water.
 
I'd still manually remove it, but do what you think is best. Def only one treatment tho I say. I've used in fowlr tank and did the skimmer like rygh w no problems
 
Have used it on my mixed reef (SPS+Softies mostly) several times with no problems. Followed the instructions exactly and only dosed one drop per gallon of water volume, and I rounded down. Does what it says.
 
Yep, i ran the chemiclean, dosed it for 15 gallons less than what i have (to compensate for displacement by the rock and sand and equipment. Didnt kill anything and got rid of the cyano.
 
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