Undoubtably if you have seen this already if you pay any attention to the DIY sections at NR or RC, but if you haven't, here you go.
I have been playing with LED lights for some time. I've already used them to grow plants on a FW tank for a years time very successfully, and already done a controlled growth test vs PC on plants. Now I am expanding this to my BC14. I've had it going for several days now and all is well.
The light is a hybrid upgrade. My BC 14 had the 72watt nanotuners PC upgrade. This project undos that upgrade and replaces with an LED light.
This project was originally going to use 12x emitters, but I scaled it back down to 6. I have photo comparisons showing the 12x light though if you are interested.
I also prefer the light without the optics over the BC14
The Crees puts out about 185 lumens at 700mA and 3.6v or about 2.5watts each...or 15watts and 1110 lumens total for the 6 LED light. I did a series of photo shoots (not int his post) and these LED lights put a lot more effective light into the tank then the PCs (PCs have a lot of losses with spread, restrike, reflections).
Here is the light retrod into the cube.
I changed the flow of the fans to just pull air out and mostly sealed up the caps on the air vents. I then added in a couple of vents above the heatsinks to keep cool air blowing in on them. THis works quite well so far.
Now for some tank shots. I have 3 different sets all showing different things.
IMPORTANT INFO!!!
This tank almost crashed recently due to a refractometer problem (go go 1.030 salinity). The corals look bleached cause they are. Fortunately, nothing died and EVERYTHING is recovering perfectly well right now.
Comparison photos
Color representation is fairly accurate
The following is identical: Color Balance, Iso, Aperature, 1x 50/50 24watt PC, 1x actinic 24watt PC
Top: 6x Cree XR-E Q bin @ 700mA (~15watts), Shutter speed = 1/30
Middle: 1x 10,000K 24watt PC, Shutter speed = 1/30
Bottom: 6x Cree XR-E Q bin @ 700mA, Shutter speed = 1/50
The shimmer IMO is excellent when the hydor causes surface turbulence.
The color feels very natural. Not too yellow, not too blue (remember, the coral are bleached and recovering). You can easily get more blue blue by changing the 50/50 to an actinic.
I have been playing with LED lights for some time. I've already used them to grow plants on a FW tank for a years time very successfully, and already done a controlled growth test vs PC on plants. Now I am expanding this to my BC14. I've had it going for several days now and all is well.
The light is a hybrid upgrade. My BC 14 had the 72watt nanotuners PC upgrade. This project undos that upgrade and replaces with an LED light.
This project was originally going to use 12x emitters, but I scaled it back down to 6. I have photo comparisons showing the 12x light though if you are interested.
I also prefer the light without the optics over the BC14
The Crees puts out about 185 lumens at 700mA and 3.6v or about 2.5watts each...or 15watts and 1110 lumens total for the 6 LED light. I did a series of photo shoots (not int his post) and these LED lights put a lot more effective light into the tank then the PCs (PCs have a lot of losses with spread, restrike, reflections).
Here is the light retrod into the cube.
I changed the flow of the fans to just pull air out and mostly sealed up the caps on the air vents. I then added in a couple of vents above the heatsinks to keep cool air blowing in on them. THis works quite well so far.
Now for some tank shots. I have 3 different sets all showing different things.
IMPORTANT INFO!!!
This tank almost crashed recently due to a refractometer problem (go go 1.030 salinity). The corals look bleached cause they are. Fortunately, nothing died and EVERYTHING is recovering perfectly well right now.
Comparison photos
Color representation is fairly accurate
The following is identical: Color Balance, Iso, Aperature, 1x 50/50 24watt PC, 1x actinic 24watt PC
Top: 6x Cree XR-E Q bin @ 700mA (~15watts), Shutter speed = 1/30
Middle: 1x 10,000K 24watt PC, Shutter speed = 1/30
Bottom: 6x Cree XR-E Q bin @ 700mA, Shutter speed = 1/50
The shimmer IMO is excellent when the hydor causes surface turbulence.
The color feels very natural. Not too yellow, not too blue (remember, the coral are bleached and recovering). You can easily get more blue blue by changing the 50/50 to an actinic.