Felicia's 40B Predator Reef

Discussion in 'Tank Journals' started by FeliciaLynn, Jan 27, 2015.

  1. FeliciaLynn

    FeliciaLynn Supporting Member

    DC3000LV
    • Max Flow: 800GPH (3000L/Hr)
    • Hmax: 3m
    • Power: 25Watt
    • High performance motor with innovative electronics and energy savings up to 50%
    • Automatic power-off protection when dry
    • Motor protection when impeller is blocked
    • Super quiet operation
    • Can be used in freshwater or saltwater
    • No copper components
    • Wear resistant ceramic shaft for longer operating life
    • Soft start operation - pump gradually builds up to set flow rate
    These New DC pumps offer an energy saving alternative in the submersible pump line-up! DC Powered: Running on 24VDC, these pumps use over 50% less than other submerisble pumps, which also means less heat transfer! Controllable: Features a 6 speed controller with 10 minute feed mode. Slow Start Mode: These pumps also feature a slow startup mode, when power is aplied to the pump, the flow will slowy ramp up to full speed in about a minute. No more splashing in the tank from an full on blast of water. High performance motor with innovative electronics and energy savings up to 50% IC electronic detection, automatic power-off protection upon no water Motor protection if impeller is blocked Super quiet operation Can be used in freshwater or saltwater No copper components Wear resistant ceramic shaft for longer operating life.

    Flow rate: 792GPH

    Head max high 8.9'

    Cable length 6 ft.

    DC24V, 25W.

    Outlet connector size 1 1/4" AND comes with a multiple size adaptor.

    Pump size: 5.5"(L)x 4 3/4"(H) x 3 1/4"(W),
     
  2. rygh

    rygh Supporting Member

    I have been using a Jebao DC6000 for about a year now. Works really well.
    So yours should be a good choice.

    Note that the 3000 is Gen-1 though. The 4000/6000/12000/20000 are Gen-2.
    But other than some rare controller issues, Gen-1 is supposed to be pretty much the same.
     
  3. FeliciaLynn

    FeliciaLynn Supporting Member

    Good to hear! I've never seen the DC-4000. The supplier I ordered from had the 3000 and then the 6000. Hopefully there won't be any controller issues.

    Here are some really basic diagrams of the plumbing for you guys. No measurements or anything yet, but I figured a schematic of all the parts would help me make sure I have everything I need.

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
  4. jonmos75

    jonmos75 Guest

    But if it installed next to a wall you would have to let the water out to pull the tank & stand away to gain access to the back support to remove the sump, where if you make the front brace removable from the front no moving of the tank & stand...
     
  5. FeliciaLynn

    FeliciaLynn Supporting Member

    True. That'd be as much work as pulling the tank off of the stand to remove that too brace. The front isn't a brace I don't think. I believe it's solid and wouldn't come out easily. I'll probably just drop the sump in from the top and if I ever need to upgrade, I'll have to drain the tank and move it to put in a new sump. At least that's manageable with a 40B.
     
  6. jonmos75

    jonmos75 Guest

    The Tech support said that the load bearing weight that supports the tank is the four corners.

    The top horizontal small piece of wood and the front and rear center vertical braces are just for stabilizing front to back and side to side motion ...say if you bumped in to the tanks or an earthquake....but if you needed to remove one of the center braces the Tech suggested empty 1/2 the tanks take out the brace ...do what ever you need to do, put back the support and refill up the tank....no complete tear down or moving of the tank or stand.


    50% water change for a repair is better that a tear-down and disrupting the sand bed and like stock & Corals...
     
  7. rygh

    rygh Supporting Member

    I would go with 1" pipe through the Tee on return, then to 3/4 and 1/2 from that.
    You might want to have a 1/2" PVC valve, right next to Tee, not on tubing.
    You might want a union / quick disconnect at the pump on return.

    But the big issue: Seems like it will be really noisy with just one drain line!
     
    FeliciaLynn likes this.
  8. rygh

    rygh Supporting Member

    Something else to consider is using the Ultra-Flex pipe that Marine Depot sells.
    It glues just like PVC, but is relatively flexible.
    It can make life way easier than using solid PVC.
     
    Coral reefer and FeliciaLynn like this.
  9. FeliciaLynn

    FeliciaLynn Supporting Member

    The Jebao return has a 1 1/4" thread fitting on it, so I already tracked down the weird 1 1/4" to 3/4" reducer coupling to make that work. So, I'm going to stick to the 3/4" PVC that works with that fitting. Also, because that fitting to the pump is all threaded, it will serve as a quick disconnect for the pump.

    I already have the valve for the reactor flow and its Mur-lok push connect fitting, so it has to go on the tubing portion. Its that white, semi-rigid tubing from BRS that goes with their media reactors. Its the valve I've been using on the reactor since I got it and I've never had any problems with it, so I figured I'd just use it.

    More than one drain on a 40B seems excessive to me. Anyways, I'm using the Glass Holes kit, which is very commonly used and all the reviews say its very quiet. Almost every 40B tank thread I can find uses this exact kit, so I'm not too worried about it being excessively noisy.
     
  10. FeliciaLynn

    FeliciaLynn Supporting Member

    I'm trying out the hard/professional route this time with actual PVC. I'm just not a huge fan of the way the flex tubing looks. Plus I already bought all the PVC for the build.
     
  11. rygh

    rygh Supporting Member

    Sounds good.
    Multiple drain thought was all about silence, not flow, so if Glass Holes works, great.
    Why do I always think of the Google-Glasses with that name ..... ;)
     
  12. FeliciaLynn

    FeliciaLynn Supporting Member

    I sure hope it works! Everyone seems to use it, so I hope that means its a good kit. I don't know a ton about plumbing, so I wanted to just keep it simple and stick with what most people seemed to be using.

    If you google glass holes, you get a bunch of articles about google glasses haha.
     
  13. FeliciaLynn

    FeliciaLynn Supporting Member

    Got some updates for you guys!

    1) My Jebao DC-3000 return pump arrived and looks very nice! Haven't fired it up yet, but I'll keep you all posted when I do.

    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]

    2) I know my skimmer is on the small side, so I was going to save up and upgrade it later. Then Neuro posted a Reef Octopus NWB-110 for sale. I went and picked it up today, so that worked out great! Its so much more legit than my current skimmer. Its rated for around 100 gallons, so it should be perfect for my new system. Definitely was perfect timing that he decided to sell it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    3) Progress is being made on the sump. I siliconed in the baffle for the ATO reservoir. I filled it up with water friday afternoon and have been letting it sit to make sure there are no leaks. All good on that front! Now its time to do the other baffles. Here's the sump with some of the equipment so you can get an idea of the space.

    [​IMG]
    Oh! And for those of you who were concerned about the size of my return chamber in case the the ATO goes on the fritz and the water level drops, the Jebao pump has a feature where it automatically shuts off if it starts sucking air. So no worries on that front!

    My duncan colony is looking AMAZING right now. The tank is gross so I don't want to post FTS's, but I'll share a couple nice photos of my duncan colony. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer President

    I am familiar w those pumps, but I'm saying two valves that way you can tune the flow thru the reactor independent of flow thru the tank. And another valve for shutoff so you can take reactor offline independent of turning off the return pump.
     
  15. FeliciaLynn

    FeliciaLynn Supporting Member

    Ah ok. Yeah that makes sense. I'll pick up a ball valve to throw onto the 3/4" pipe after the tee, before it reduces to 1/2".
     
  16. tygunn

    tygunn Webmaster

    Nice clean skimmer! Looks like an OTP-1000 pump on there. Back in the day (2006) I had a MONSTER Octopus skimmer with 3 of those on my 140g tank. Sure was an upgrade from the PCX-70 powered Beckett skimmer I had (400w for the skimmer).
     
  17. FeliciaLynn

    FeliciaLynn Supporting Member

    Yeah Neuro cleaned it up nicely. Looks almost new :) Sounds like that was a beast of a skimmer. This new Reef Octopus looks like a beast compared to my current SCA skimmer. Pretty excited to have such beefed up filtration on this new tank!
     
  18. tygunn

    tygunn Webmaster

    It was actually WAY too big. The thing was rated for 700g and my tank was 140g. It was so big I never could get it to skim anything out of the tank because my bioload was way too low. :)

    So the moral of the story is, OVER POPULATE AND FEED! :)
     
  19. FeliciaLynn

    FeliciaLynn Supporting Member

    Didn't know you could overdo it with a skimmer. Well considering I am planning to add a small group of dispar anthias, I should be plenty stocked for this new skimmer :)
     
  20. tygunn

    tygunn Webmaster

    Yeah I didn't think so either. :) I had such a low bioload from what the skimmer could handle that it'd just crud up the neck but never get a stable foam head.
     

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