Jeff's 120

Discussion in 'Tank Journals' started by zambavi, Oct 8, 2008.

  1. Elite

    Elite Guest

    Look great...
     
  2. zambavi

    zambavi Guest

    Thanks Phong...

    So I wanted to see what you guys thought. Don't know what type of response I'll get here but I am wanting some input of PH placement. Mostly I'm looking for good Pics that illustrate flow for an SPS tank around 90-150G. Right now... for this tank I have a Tunze 6100 and 4 Hydor Koralia 4's to work with. I know a lot of this will be trial and error once I get all the rock in the way that I want and I understand the principles behind getting flow to every part of the tank to suspend detritus etc. But what I'd really love is some PICS of these principles in action in regards to an SPS tank in this size range. Hope to see some great examples here in the BAR group. I would appreciate your great examples.
     
  3. zambavi

    zambavi Guest

    Well.... Friday the 26th is the big day! I'll be taking down the 75 and putting back up the 120. Also must break down all the plumbing and drain the sump fuge as low as possible since I am changing the location of the tank in my home. Very different plumbing set up this time to reduce headloss and create a cleaner look and fuctionality. I'll be getting up bright and early that morning to get started. Expect it to be an all day project.

    Things I've taken care of to prep for the day.
    1. 4 Rubbermaid tanks to hold LR and 2 Rubbermaid tanks for livestock on hand and ready to go
    2. 100 Gallons of RO/DI made
    3. All plumbing is gathered and ready to go
    4. Tank is water tested
    5. Structure Stands for LR made and ready
    6. All necessary tools and supplies for the project gathered and ready
    7. Extra PH and Heaterbars gathered for the livestock hold tanks

    Things to do still before the 26th...
    1. Turn 100 gallons of RO/DI water into Salt Water
    2. Put together north of bulkhead plumbing.... Dursa, return set-up
    3. Cut Plywood and foam the tank will be sitting on and drill corresponding holes to bulkhead locations.... Attach to stand.
    4. Find a sucker who wants to waste an entire day away helping me. ;)

    Many other things to do after this but none that need to be done prior to the 26th. Very excited....
     
  4. Elite

    Elite Guest

    goodluck finding that sucker LOL ;D ...
     
  5. zambavi

    zambavi Guest

    No doubt... ;D

    I will post this in the WTB section also but it applies to this thread as well.

    I'm shopping for a chiller for my new 120g tank build. Total system volume with sumpfuge and attached frag tank will be about 200G. I'm running halides... plan on doing SPS and need a steady high 70's temp. I believe I need the chiller to be able to bring that water volume down about 4-8 degrees. I believe that puts me in the 1/4hp to 1/2hp range. Looking for energy effeciency and quietness also. I have no personal experience with chillers up to this point. Would appreciate any pointers, suggestions etc. I'm not opposed to buying used as long as in good condition. Anyone know of good QUALITY deal out there? LFS, Online, BAR member with an extra chiller laying around? Remember I need this to grow great SPS to regularly contribute to the DBTC program! ;D
     
  6. Dyngoe

    Dyngoe Guest

    I hope you remembered to pick up some Chemi-Pure, Carbon and Nitrate removers. Don't forget filter socks either, you'll be kicking up a lot of dust in the move. Oh yeah, LOTS of towels! Plan on doing a load of laundry during the day. :D Hmm...anything else...nope, nothing else comes to mind.

    As for cooling, I find evaporation works fine "if" your home is air conditioned. But, for a few months you should have no problem keeping your tank temp down. ;) When it starts to warm up I may have a chiller to spare. I'll have to see how my insulation holds up in my new room.
     
  7. zambavi

    zambavi Guest

    Thanks Dyngoe... That is hilarious on the towels. ;D My wife hit it on the head this evening when I was talking to her about what I’ll need for switching out the tanks. She gave me one of those looks and said… “you’ll probably need every last towel that we own to clean up the mess you’re going to make”. So yes… I will certainly have lots of towels ready.

    Now I have three media reactors (TwoLittleFishies 150’s) that I run Phosban in one, Hydrocarbon in the second and Denitrate in the third. I also have a couple of 200 micron socks that I will be using throughout the process.
    So tell me about Chem-Pure… not familiar with that one.

    As for the cooling… I know I will not need one right now but in a few months when it starts to warm up I know I’ll have to have one. Thanks for keeping me in mind when that time comes around.

    Chem-Pure though… please share.
     
  8. zambavi

    zambavi Guest

    Anyone else that is familiar with Chem-pure please chime in also... what it does... best ways to use it.... etc...
     
  9. badbread

    badbread Guest

    I have a bag in my little frag tank, I think its like super re-fined carbon
     
  10. zambavi

    zambavi Guest

    So I'm already running Hydrocarbon 2 by two little fishies in a small reactor. It was suggested that I also use Chem-pure... what it the difference? benifits? best practices?
     
  11. 70Cuda

    70Cuda Guest

    chemipure is ionized filter media witch helps to stabalize your ph but what is most nice about it is the phosphate and silicate removal. That being said I think its like a high grade carbon. When ive had issues with phosphates or water that isnt crystal clear ive put this in my sock and its worked wonders.
     
  12. zambavi

    zambavi Guest

    So I have 3 reactors running off of a T from my return pump...

    Reactor 1 – Seachem de*nitrate

    Reactor 2 – HydroCarbon 2

    Reactor 3 – Phosban

    Is the opinion that IN ADDITION to these I would benefit from using Chemi-pure?

    Or am I already covered with current media?

    I believe that I already have a solid process and measures in place for a smooth transition but I want to make sure I’m taking every precaution possible and if Chemi-pure can bring an additional benefit on top of what I’m already using I’d like to know that. Thanks for all your feedback. More comments welcome!
     
  13. Roc

    Roc Guest

    Man that is a beautiful set-up your going to have. I hope one day to be able to put together something like that
     
  14. zambavi

    zambavi Guest

    Thanks man... I'm really pumped about it. This is actually the first time I've ever purchased a new tank and most equipment for that matter. Always before 75g was my limit and everything was used. This time around I'm doing the new tank and some fun toys to go along with it (new Skimmer, Nice PH's, reactors, etc.). I'm really wanting to put together a top notch system here. A big facilitator for me this time around is from all the coral I was able to sell while living in NC. I was able to sell SPS frags and my fast growing Silver Xenia on a regular basis to a couple LFS as well as to some locals. Between that and selling all my coral livestock for my move to CA gave me a fair pot of cash to work with this time around; though at this point that doe is gone. ;D

    I don't think I'll be doing any of the selling of my SPS and such this time around though. I'm really digging this DBTC thing here in this area. I hope to get a handfull of moderate care fast growing colonies up and growing soon to start feeding the DBTC. Hope to be able to receive a few from the program at first here also to create some diversity. I believe I'm putting together a SPS growing machine here so I hope to be a major DBTC contributer this next year.
     
  15. [quote author=zambavi link=topic=4762.msg70555#msg70555 date=1229661786]
    No doubt... ;D

    I will post this in the WTB section also but it applies to this thread as well.

    I'm shopping for a chiller for my new 120g tank build. Total system volume with sumpfuge and attached frag tank will be about 200G. I'm running halides... plan on doing SPS and need a steady high 70's temp. I believe I need the chiller to be able to bring that water volume down about 4-8 degrees. I believe that puts me in the 1/4hp to 1/2hp range. Looking for energy effeciency and quietness also. I have no personal experience with chillers up to this point. Would appreciate any pointers, suggestions etc. I'm not opposed to buying used as long as in good condition. Anyone know of good QUALITY deal out there? LFS, Online, BAR member with an extra chiller laying around? Remember I need this to grow great SPS to regularly contribute to the DBTC program! ;D
    [/quote]


    I got this drop in chiller from the manufacturer, couldn't pass up the deal, and I didn't need one this summer. Anyway, just keep checking back until you find one you want. Mine was Grade B, but it looks brand new, comes with everything you need, controller etc....

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270288081052
     
  16. 70Cuda

    70Cuda Guest

    you sure are handy, its awesome
     
  17. zambavi

    zambavi Guest

    [quote author=Dyngoe link=topic=4762.msg69960#msg69960 date=1229471907]
    BTW, I like the tank(s) idea. I only have two suggestions:
    1. Why not do 1 frag tank instead of two? You could then offset your sump so you have a straight drain pipe (bends make noise) and you'll have a better frag setup. A 20G tank is not the optimal frag setup in my mind. I'd do a 30G long and be done with it. Get a little more space in your stand, make cleaning easier and lower your costs.
    [/quote]

    So Dyngoe... your comments have been weighing on me so I've made two key changes to my set up... thank you. ;)

    1. Instead of using the two 20g talls that I have planned for frag tanks I am instead going to use one 40 gallon breeder I picked up for super cheap this week. I'll probably just continue my current 20g frag tank seperate from this system and keep using my other 20 as a QT. This will also free up my other cabinet to better fit my Calcium Reactor and Chiller.

    2. On my own I've decided to scratch my current sump/fuge set design and have drawn up plans for a different layout that should cut down on head loss and make a more efficient sump/fuge. Will adjust my drawing and update when I get a chance.
     
  18. itsacrispy

    itsacrispy Supporting Member

    Nice, that RODI setup gets me thinking. Can I ask you what materials you used? I'm assuming a brass Y, but did you need anything else aside from that?

    Thanks Jeff!
     
  19. zambavi

    zambavi Guest

    Yes my supplies to install were...

    1. 1 Brass Y
    2. 2 JG 1/4 inch x 1/4 inch Union Ball Valves
    3. Plumbers Tape
    4. Cutting tool
    5. 3 sheetrock mounts

    After turning my cold water line off I took off the washing machine hose, connected the Brass Y with lots of plumbers tape. Then reconnected the washing machine line to one side and the garden hose attachment of the RO/DI unit to the other side (again lots of plumbers tape). I made a cut in the feed line to the RO/DI about 6 inches before the unit and then installed a JG 1/4 inch x 1/4 inch Union Ball Valve (to start and stop the RO/DI). I then put the "Yellow" waste water line down the washing machine drain pipe behind the washing machine and installed the 2nd JG 1/4" x 1/4" Union Ball Valve on the end of the "Blue" purified water line (mostly just to keep drips from occuring and it makes it easier to hang that end of the line on a hook next to the RO/DI unit). Then I hung the RO/DI on the mounting screws and walla!

    A nice benefit to putting it next to your washing machine is that if you happen to be filling 5 gallon jugs you can sit the jug on the washing machine lid. If you happen to lose track of the time and the jug overflows the water just falls into the washing machine and not on the floor; an un-intentional benefit. ;D
     
  20. zambavi

    zambavi Guest

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