Julius' CDA 150 Build

Discussion in 'Tank Journals' started by Julius Chen, Mar 3, 2018.

  1. Julius Chen

    Julius Chen Supporting Member

    All things have small beginnings...

    The path to greatness is full of perils ;-)

    Just put down deposit for the following setup:
    1. CDA 150 Gallon tank: 5'x2'x2'
    2. CDA TRADITIONAL Malibu wood stand, semi-gloss Brown Mahogany
    3. Synergy TS-44 Sump

    Will pursue Triton method. Tank will have fish, softies, LPS.

    Other equipment I already have:
    4. Vertex Omega 150 Protein Skimmer
    5. Reef Octopus DC 5500 Return Pump
    6. Hydra AI 52 x2, Vega Color x2
    7. Apex controller and EB8x2
    8. Tunze 3155 ATO
    9. Trigger System 10G ATO Reservior
    10. A few Tunze and Jebao wavemakers
    11. Masterflex 7523-80 peristaltic pump with Easy-Load II Two-Channel Pump Head (77202-60), for automatic water change.
    JVU, Newjack and coral4me like this.
  2. Gablami

    Gablami Guest

    Sounds like a great beginning.

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  3. Damn -- that's already a great set-up.
  4. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer Past President

    I thought triton was no water changes?
    JVU likes this.
  5. It is. He should give the Masterflex to you.
    Coral reefer likes this.
  6. Vhuang168

    Vhuang168 Supporting Member

    Nah, he should keep it to feed a CaRx.
  7. Julius Chen

    Julius Chen Supporting Member

    I have had lots of headache with nutrients export in my prior 120G setup (which leaked and I had to shut it down). Death of softies is painful.

    So decided to try TS-44 due to its large refugium to grow macro algae. I am hoping to reduce water change, not eliminate. I imagine this modified Triton approach may complicate the sizing of replenishment doses. We will see when we get there.

    I am now planning how to set up the 1/4" RODI tubings (for AWC) and a 1/2" PVD pipe (for RODI water) in crawlspace to connect family room and garage. Deciding whether there is need to run 22 gauge wires in between (refer to post #33 at http://www.bareefers.org/forum/threads/best-automatic-water-change-setup.21628/page-2).

  8. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

    I think you can do the auto water change with two apex pmup instead of the masterflex and save that masterflex for a carx. That's just me. Since your running a eb8 out there it would be totally do able. You can also use one 1/4 tubing for topping off by using two of the apex solenoid to auto switch between topping off rodi or auto water change water. Probably better to describe it by drawing. I'll draw one up for you.

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  9. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member


    Does this make sense?

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  10. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

    String for future in case line is clog you can pull a new rodi line.

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    Last edited: Mar 4, 2018
  11. Julius Chen

    Julius Chen Supporting Member

    Scuzy, just saw your diagram this morning. I will take a look today. THANKS! My heart is still with continuous water change via MasterFlex though.

    A different question - what is the best way to connect Neptune breakout box to be located in garage? Here are the details:

    1x Apex controller and 1x EB8 inside DT stand located at family room. 1x EB8 located at garage with fresh salt water barrel and a clean RODI container. I like to place several float sensors in garage.

    Just realized breakout box can not be connected to EB8 directly. It has to connect with Apex controller or PM1/PM2/PM3/AMS (which I don't need at this time).

    Only way I can think of is to run all 6 pairs of the 22g sensor wires between family room and garage under the crawl space. This will likely mean to add another schedule 40 PVC pipe run there (to prevent rodent chewing the lines).
  12. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

    I would just get a pm1 and be done with instead of rubbing all those wire.

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  13. Julius Chen

    Julius Chen Supporting Member

    Just to make sure - the PM 1 can be attached to the EB8 located at garage?

    FYI - This EB8 at garage is connected to Apex controller in family room via a 50' long aqua bus.
  14. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

    Yeah eb8 will have like 5 aquabus ports available.

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  15. Julius Chen

    Julius Chen Supporting Member

    For the life of me I can't find the button to create a new thread...

    Any recommendations for zoa propagation tools? I am thinking of a set of surgical scalpels, and/or Japanese wood chisels, and a bone cutter.
  16. RandyC

    RandyC Supporting Member

    Go to the forum you want to add a new thread and the button will be close to the top of the page.


    I prefer a #10 scapel for most of my fragging of zoas and occasionally a 5" SPS/bone cutters from BRS.

    Scalpel Blades #10 Includes #3 Metal Handle – Suitable for Dermaplaning, Crafts, Medical/Surgical Instruments/Equipment Pack of 50 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XD6NFVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G9wZAbMJCRHGT


    Don't forget gloves and eye protection.
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2018
    Coral reefer likes this.
  17. Julius Chen

    Julius Chen Supporting Member

    My new 150g setup is not delivered yet. Hopefully it will show up in a few weeks.

    I will start to list some questions as we get near the delivery date.
  18. Flagg37

    Flagg37 Supporting Member

    I chopped up my “mat” of Mohawks while they were still in my tank. I just used bone cutters and tried to cut/break the rock right under them. I didn’t use any safety protection. I like to live on the edge. Paly toxin; pshh.
  19. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer Past President

    This Is poor advice, and hopefully a joke that doesn't come across right in type.
  20. JVU


    Yeah, definitely use safety glasses with all fragging, and contact precautions like gloves and when dealing with anything potentially toxic like all palys and zoas. And I’d recommend to try to split up your fragging into multiple sessions on different days with toxic corals to limit the exposure per day in your tank and for yourself (if you are fragging a lot of coral).

    For fragging zoas and palys from a rock or plug you don’t care about, you can just cut the rock up with bone cutters or a saw and slice up the mat if needed with a blade. If they are on a rock you want to keep intact, I’ve found you can carefully peel them off the rock with forceps (big tweezers) then cut the mat between polyp groups. I discovered that recently after trying multiple other methods to remove some without damaging the rock, in my tank.

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