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Discussion in 'Tank Journals' started by kinetic, Sep 8, 2017.

  1. rygh

    rygh BOD

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    Yes.
    A ULNS deliberately very carefully limits nutrients on the input.
    What you have is rampant Dinos that are eating everything like crazy, leaving no nutrients left in the water to detect.
    You see exactly the same with big hair algae problems, etc.

    Sad about the hawfish.
    You might want to check for ammonia. With dinos/etc dying, that might be up.

    I would suggest just restarting. Sounds like minimal livestock.

    For the rocks: Cleaning + bleach is step 1.
    I would soak those in tap water with vinegar (or muriatic acid) for a couple of days, to break up surface crud.
    Then soak in tap water + lanthanum chloride, to soak up phosphates.

    You need to eliminate the dinos, sure, but you also need to eliminate nutrients/etc from the rocks.
     
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  2. kinetic

    kinetic Webmaster

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    I'm also not sure if I'd restart after doing the whole breakdown =(

    I may be moving in a year or two, so I might just put a pause on a system until then.
     
  3. kinetic

    kinetic Webmaster

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    Oh that's very true! Great, I will just do the TTM on the fish. I'm thinking maybe also separately for the anemones? They hold quite a bit of water in them.

    Yes, thank you, that makes sense. The rocks steps sound great.
     
  4. Gablami

    Gablami Guest

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    I don’t get why you guys are talking about TTM and fallow periods. Why? No new livestock, no ich in the tank.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. kinetic

    kinetic Webmaster

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    Ah, well I never actually did TTM into the tank to begin with with my current livestock. The idea was that they were all tank raised (ORA, SA) but really, snails and such might have brought ich in (and even that hawkfish since that wasn't tank raised). Might be good just in case I have ich, rather than for dinos.
     
  6. rygh

    rygh BOD

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    TTM can also reduce the tank-cyling delays.
    Do TTM while you are cycling breeder tank. (Using chems to speed that up also)
    So you can start it all immediately if you want.
     
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  7. ashburn2k

    ashburn2k Webmaster

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    Any update? Hope your Dino issue has been resolved.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
  8. kinetic

    kinetic Webmaster

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    DinoX + NoPox + every 2 day water changes seem to be slowly keeping the dinos from growing too much, but still impossible to get rid of them completely.

    So two fish are dead now: female orchid dottyback (a day after she laid another batch of eggs), and my geometric pygmy hawkfish.

    So far, no more deaths even cleanup crew seem to be OK. My magnifica is wandering around quite a bit now, and the mocha davinci are trying to kill my third clown (they used to not bother with him at all, but I think with the added stress they are now pissed at everything).

    So far, dinos are winning. At some point I won't have any more dinos, or I won't have anymore livestock...

    My DinoX dosage was increased a tad, otherwise it had no effect. But because of that, things are definitely stressed.

    At this point I'm just going to keep dosing and zen the f* out when I do the water changes. If everything dies, I'm just going to break it down =P
     
  9. JVU

    JVU BOD

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    :(

    Have you looked into Vibrant? A lot of users on the forums are having success against dinos with it. I had bought it before for my previous tank, but never did use it yet so I don’t have personal experience.
     
  10. Kensington Reefer

    Kensington Reefer Supporting Member

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    oh my!
    keep dong the water changes
    I would change half or more every two days for two weeks
    stop the dosing and add a UV
    I feel your pain and frustration
     
  11. Fish Boss

    Fish Boss Supporting Member

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    Not sure if it is outdated knowledge, but i remember reading about people doing complete blackouts for 2-3 days and supposedly that worked against Dino’s. Of course, aggressive water change at the end of blackout
     
  12. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

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    Man that tank went from looking so clean to merging a redo in a hurry. Sorry man i say bleach everything.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
  13. kinetic

    kinetic Webmaster

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    I'll keep the regiment up. So far the anemones aren't affected, (knock on wood).
     
  14. RandyC

    RandyC Supporting Member

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    Ok, you win. You are vindicated, sir, in your algae reactor design. My algae reactor has a 3" crack in it. Late last night I went to check on the tank and noticed a little drip coming out of the cabinent and then opened the cabinet and saw the reactor sitting in a little puddle.

    [​IMG]

    It could be the LEDs we have take up ~40W and do get pretty warm. I also noticed that the strips are much hotter the closer it is to the power brick and incidentally, the crack is at the top of the reactor where I put the LEDs that are closest to the power brick. Maybe others that use lower wattage lighting don't have the problem.

    I also noticed when I took off the LEDs to examine it, that all the blue LEDs on strip were burnt out.

    [​IMG]

    So, at least for these LEDs that take 40W of power, a heatsink is probably needed or some sort of active cooling. Water through the reactor is not enough.
     
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  15. scuzy

    scuzy Supporting Member

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    maybe that's why the marine depot ones have a rubber tube over it.


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  16. RandyC

    RandyC Supporting Member

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    The marine depot ones are only 14w. Not nearly as much heat. I would think the rubber is only for water resistance. If anything, encasing in that plastic/rubber would be worse for the LEDs in terms of heat.
     
  17. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

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    Hey Art, if you need to re-start and want a UV unit, I'm digging some mogul sockets out and found a little UV 15W; also among the mess, spotted a Deltec MCE-600 skimmer; I believe it has a media chamber. LMK, I'll keep them out of the storage bins.
     
  18. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

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    ... Also have a 40B tank; has baffles but can be removed.
     
  19. kinetic

    kinetic Webmaster

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    @RandyC yikes that looks a bit scary. Well, you have all the info to build the same reactor I have ;) With a small quiet fan + the aluminum fin heatsinks it hasn't had any issues for me.

    @xcaret thanks for the offer. I think I'm managing for now. I'm just dosing dinox + nopox every two days!
     
  20. JVU

    JVU BOD

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    kinetic likes this.

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