Maureen's Classroom DSA 105

Discussion in 'Tank Journals' started by MolaMola, Mar 23, 2015.

  1. aqua-nut

    aqua-nut Supporting Member

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    :confused: with wiring, just contact the local inspector! Sorry I had to laugh at the concept someone would actually know what was 'approved'.

    Locking up the Apex is not a bad idea. It would help keep the kids out too.

    If you give the kids access to the Apex programming, make sure you back up the working scripts before they change them. The logic can get a bit obscure and you'd want to restore it all at the end of the day.

    Big Lots and Diablo - it's a sign from above to visit both! :rolleyes:

    To do two temps you'd need another module. IIRC both the PM1 and PM2 have temp ports. I don't use the ORP sensor on mine. I use it as a second pH port (I don't trust in pH probes!) .
     
  2. Apon

    Apon Volunteer

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    Does the tank heat up from the window- direct sunlight? also algae issues?
     
  3. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

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    Had some professional development days but now I can get on the tank.
    I forgot we have an old sump, so today I will attempt to set up my ATO and use it as overflow reservoir.
    Been wrestling with Apex and got temp probes set for sump and air temp. Still more to do. Had Staples print out the big fat manual b/c I am sick of trying to read that thing online. I might move probes from sump to overflow if they fit. Any problem with that?
    Can't decide where to install RODI. Right now it sits on a counter by the tank along with my Apex spaghetti - yikes. Open area under a sink near tank? Might not fit if I add another stage or two to reduce wastewater. On wall next to sink? In adjacent prep room where I might set up plankton culture? Still can't figure out plan for RO and SW mixing and storage. No spot for big garbage can on wheels in classroom, so either smaller cans or keep in adjacent room. Silly b/c the rooms are huge but cabinetry is limiting.
    So many things I need to do on the tank! Hopefully I can make a dent today.
    About the LocLine return back siphon possibility...if I have 4 LL that all come from one return line, as soon as air enters the return line the siphon will break even if some LL are under water, right?
     
  4. Enderturtle

    Enderturtle Volunteer

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    I'm trying to imagine how your four locline are set up.

    Probably one connection point where the four locline connect.

    The good thing about locline is that you CAN take it off and readjust it if you don't like it for some reason. Albeit, loc line is not the easiest thing to take off because the joints are so damn tight but its do able.

    My recommendation is to install it. And turn off the power as a test to see if the syphon will break. I don't fully understand why you would want some of the locline below the water line and some above? Either way, test it out. And make sure the sump or skimmer do not overflow in the event of a power outage.
     
  5. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

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    Oooh. Missed some posts - sorry.
    Light and heat from windows not an issue I think but tank is next to a door so I'm sure there's more air in and out. No algae issues at all yet.
    Return comes up, goes to a T, then each branch has a Y. Don't know if you can see in photo. All LL end underwater but I mean in case of drainback if some end up underwater and some are above the siphon will still break. The siphon has always broken during testing and that is how I marked my sump level but I know LL can get moved. I think if only one has to draw air to break siphon I should be fine. But if this is faulty logic I'd like to know.
     

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  6. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

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    Oops - I added the Y's after that photo but you get the idea.
     
  7. aqua-nut

    aqua-nut Supporting Member

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    I agree with ET, test the locline. I think your 'one draws air' logic is correct but test it! With one higher than the others, turn the power off and see what happens. If it works and you can configure one to never be pushed lower, that will solve the drain back question.

    To prevent the skimmer from overflowing when the main pump is off include these lines of code in the skimmer outlet -
    If Outlet R_pump = OFF Then OFF
    Defer 005:00 Then ON

    The first line cuts off the skimmer if the return pump (R_pump) is off. The second line makes the skimmer outlet wait five minutes before turning on, allowing the sump to get back to normal level after a power outage or intentional shut down.

    As to placement of all the extras...
    It's always a good idea to have the RO/DI close to a water source. I put salt mix close to RO/DI. It's easy to pump water from either to the tank. I have my mix station outside and pump SW 50 feet to the tank for water changes.

    I'd keep all the probes in the sump area. Wires running over the top of the tank will get damaged.

    It would help if you could post pictures of the areas so we can visualize it better. The LL pic is nice but could you post slightly larger ones for us old guys? :)
     
  8. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

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    Thanks for the replies and the pump Apex info. Haven't gotten to those parts yet and that is good info for me.
    Oh yeah - forgot about pumps for water moving! Was only thinking about wheeling buckets over to the tank.
    Pics - I see when I click on thumbnail the pic stays small. I do not know how to fix that. Is it better to embed full pics right in posts or do I do something to make thumbnails expand?
     
  9. Enderturtle

    Enderturtle Volunteer

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    When I click your thumbnail, your picture does get slightly bigger.

    Either your pictures are small to begin with or the website is re-sizing them because they're massive. Try clicking Upload a File and then click Full Image.
     
  10. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

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    Test photo of Apex messy area and temporary RODI on counter. Must decide where to place EB8 and all the modules (mount to wall somewhere, mount to outside of upper brown cabinet or inside upper or lower cabinet). Silver box on wall is a ridiculously placed soap dispenser that has never been used and might be removable. Topoff reservoir will go on the floor between tank and counter. Haven't measured yet to see how far all the cords will reach.
    Testing photo size here:

    Mess.jpg
     
  11. jonmos75

    jonmos75 Supporting Member

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  12. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

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    That Attabox looks cool. I have to leave that space accessible - the black square is plastic covering a metal access door to a not-plumbed emergency chemical shower pipe that sticks out near the ceiling. I had planned to have a 5-foot tank until I was told I must keep that space accessible. Water reservoir I can move. I have to double check but I think when I got it I saw the RODI is a bit longer than the space under the sink. Will check tomorrow.
     
  13. aqua-nut

    aqua-nut Supporting Member

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    That chemical shower is a real PIA as far as placement goes. You gotta figure once the shower is functional anything below it could get wet! Will there be a floor drain too? If there is, it would be the perfect place to siphon water to in a water change.

    What's to the right of the tank? Is that a corner?

    In that pic, I'd mound the RO/DI above the soap dispenser. That should get it out of the way and you'd be able to put the water directly into the top off.

    I'd also mount the Apex within the upper right cabinet. Wires coming out the bottom of the cabinet and hidden in something like 'Wire mold' going from the bottom of the cabinet over to the tank. Along with the Apex controller, mount all the modules. The EB8 modules should be under the tank.

    The Attabox looks cool but it's $180!!! I'll bet with a little creative shopping you could find some plastic container that would do the job. Another excuse for a trip to BigLots/ Diablo? ;)

    Depending on what is to the right of the tank, you might be able to put the Apex over there. Perhaps a box mounted to the outside of the stand???

    Pic size is good now. All we need is MORE PICTURES!! :D :D
     
  14. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

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    Shower is fine because it will never be fully plumbed; they just used the same plans as for the high school building. Drain is in the floor under tank - was a pain to shim and wouldn't have worked for water changes. Two sinks nearby and sewer access outside the door so I'm in good shape.
    Yes, the tank is in a corner with not much room on the corner side. So you think it would be okay to mount EB8 on wall behind sump as shown? I have seen online many installations like that or inside the stand but I was worried about salt spray and moisture. I guess water should never be on the wall and I don't think it will stick out over the sump. Tank is pretty close to the back wall to allow access to the exit door.
    Good idea for RODI but it won't fit. Cabinet to tank width is a hair shy of that of the RODI and I will be adding a canopy.
    Yeah, no Attabox for me. Cabinet sounds like the plan if wires can reach.
    Will do some measuring and reorganizing right now.

    20150618_090921.jpg 20150618_091303.jpg
     
  15. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

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    Hmm. Only a few inches of clearance to the right of the tank, but that could be a nice spot for the modules. I see the modules are not thick and all the connectors go down instead of sticking out as on the EB8. I could just cover them with an acrylic cover. Will compare roomy cabinet vs tight wall and cord lengths.
     
  16. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

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    It was a mighty chore to mount the Apex EB8 on the wall behind and above the sump. A protective box would not work so I made an L-shaped shelter over it and thick vinyl sheeting (live rock shipping bag) hangs down for extra protection. Used hooks to route cords and probes and make drip loops. Not finished with module placement but I feel like I can almost go away for a few days.
    Questions:
    Do you have all Apex modules in one location or are some isolated, coming off the EB8? My EB8 is under the tank but my modules are currently in a cabinet a few feet away. I guess it is okay with all wires and probes running to the cabinet - cords barely reach.
    Do most people need more than one EB8? I have only 2 Kessils, a fuge light and a heater plugged in yet. I plan to add skimmer pump, return pump, another heater, 2 circulation pumps and osmolator. Not even fans, moonlight, doser, reactors. What do people do?
    Where do you put power supplies for lights and pumps? Mine are Kessil and Tunze Nanostream.
    Feel like ditching all my tank setup chores to just watch it. Yesterday my neighbor teacher brought in her son and we had fun looking at all the tank activity and feeding clowns and mantis shrimp. So happy to have a tank even if it is at school!
     
  17. jonmos75

    jonmos75 Supporting Member

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    You can have your modules in a remote location, and you can get longer usb cables but the key is they can NOT have a repeater in the cable....also the total length of all your aquabus cables should exceed 200 feet.

    I have two EB8 on my 65 gal, but you can save two outlets if you plug your Kessils into a standard outlet not an EB8 as Kessil use a var speed outlets to control them...

    The only outlets you need to NOT be cautious are #4 & #8 as the other outlets have a tendency to not turn the outlet off on low voltage equipment like a aqualifter pump, some solenoids...I think those outlets need to be 5W or higher to work so just use low wattage equipment on #4 & #8.

    hope this helps
     
  18. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

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    Do you mean the Kessils are fully controlled by the Apex just thru that variable speed connector on the base unit? I can plug them into a plain power strip?
     
  19. jonmos75

    jonmos75 Supporting Member

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    exactly!!!...I have mine plugged into my EB8, but that is cause I like everything in one place, but I might move them to a power bar on my remodel of my system
     
  20. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

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    Hmm, I totally missed that. Thanks!
     

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