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My 10 gallon tank has dinoflagellates. Should I breakdown and re-setup or treat?

Hi Everyone,

My 10g tank has dinoflagellates in the tank. It is on the glass, rock, corals, basically every where. I've only been in the hobby since March of last year and learning every day.

I initially thought that I had bubble algae and some other kind of algae, until I was told that I had dinoflagellates.

I started a blackout of the tank yesterday that I will maintain for 3/4 days to see if that helps.

I'm thinking of trying the Fauna Marin Ultra Algae X since I've read good things about it, but its $27.99 at BRS.

I was also thinking of breaking down the tank and starting over, since it is only a 10 gallon tank . A lot easier to do versus a much larger tank.


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I did the 5 days of NO LIGHT, covered the tank with tarp, only used attinic for VERY short time to feed<

Only fed small amounts that I can see fish eat right away and nothing to float around or get uneaten further feeding the dino's. NO water changes either to add more nutrients to feed dinos'. after that they turned to dust on me. I did a 50, 25 then 10pct water change.
 
There isn't any guarantee that a new set-up won't get dinos anyway. I'd stick it out and fight!

Here's a good thread on peroxide dosing. If you read through, there are some dosing instructions. I'd try that as well as running some additional GFO.
 
I've seen it work wonders with in tank treatments, and yeah, its a great dip when algae is on the plug.

I worked a little on an idea Rich (Thales) had that utilized hydrogen peroxide. I should resume that work, its a pretty creative idea.
 
@650-IS350

Can you guys describe the peroxide dip procedure some more?

How much peroxide per mL of water? How long? Is this harsh on corals?

Do you do this after dipping corals with coralrx bayer revive?
 
Depending on corals or known Zs and Ps that can handle stronger dose, I've done 80/20 peroxide. for a couple mins. Less peroxide more time. But sure pisses them off and can show blisters for a while. Then I place them up frag racks ( avoid any potential ampipod attack ) or in a plastic container drilled with holes to hold the frag from being pestered by any fish till its healed.

I've done some SPS before ( lower dosage of peroxide ) also on chalice / other LPS with success but yes, they look like crap for a while due to stress. ( do I recommend on SPS, not really as I don't know success rate on that )

Incoming frags either get lots of lugols or coralRX/Revive. Never used bayer yet.
 
I decided to do a blackout of the tank on Monday evening. I took a peek at the tank today and the dino is hardly noticeable. I'm thinking of doing a blackout until Friday. Hopefully, the corals will be fine without light for that long.

I also bit the bullet and ordered some Fauna Marin Ultra Algae X from BRS, so when that comes in I can medicate and kill off any remaining dino that may be in the tank.
 
dont over feed the tank as excess food will just give it extra nutrients, plus only turn on attinic for short time during quick feeding only. DON'T do water change during this time. until Dino's are dust then do your WC after, I'd run carbon as well after.
 
Update,

I did a complete blackout starting on Monday. I bought some H2O2 on Wednesday started dosing 1ml each day. Today (Friday) I uncovered the tank and have my Kessil on the lowest intensity with full actinics. The dinoflagellates appear to be gone or at least I don't see any.

I'm expecting some Fauna Marin Ultra Algae X to come in the mail today.

My plan before I leave work today is: do a 50% water change, start dosing the Fauna Marin Ultra Algae X, and add some MicroBacter 7 to tank. I read that by adding the MicroBacter 7 to the tank, the good bacteria will help compete with the dinoglagellates and help to starve it out. I don't know if this is true or not, but I figure it can only help.
 
I had Dinos in my setup. Not as bad as yours though. My nutrients dropped to undetectable nitrates and phosphates and the Dinos disappeared. Now I'm dosing nitrate and feeding extra to help with coral growth and the Dinos aren't returning. No blackouts, no treatments. No nutrients = no pest algae. Be warned however, that your corals will stop growing and start to lighten in color when your nutrients get too low.
 
Tomorrow I will dose one one last time with the Fauna Marin Ultra Algae X that I have been dosing every other day. I will also stop dosing with H2O2 tomorrow as well. On Monday I will do a 5 gallon water change and add back the Purigen pouch and ChemiPure Elite.

As far as I can tell the dinoflagellates are gone.

Sorry about the picture quality.

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