High Tide Aquatics

New Tank Time

cwolfus

cwolfus

Past President
BARcard
All,

I'm moving my mixed 55g reef (SPS, LPS, softies, & zoos) to a different location and taking the opportunity to upgrade and design a new setup. Becasue I have 55" horizontal to work with, I'm planning a custom acrylic tank that will fit into a bookcase I'm building. I'd appreciate any comments. Here's the current tank/sump design...

tank4.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y257/cwolfus/tank4-1.jpg

Thanks

-Charles
 
Personally if it was me, i'd do overflow across the whole back, but that's because I'm wild that way! :D That and I've seen first hand what a single cornered overflow can do if the flow isn't right you can get one side of the tank's surface water just spinning in a circle and not getting sucked over.
 
Hi Charles,

Yah, full length overflow. Direct feed to a recirculating skimmer. Moderate turnover through sump. Closed loop for more turnover in the tank. Run a couple CL outlets near the bottom to keep junk from settling under your rocks.

I'd go for more than 15" front to back though. 15" runs out of aquascaping room fast. For me, I'd go for 18"-24".

If I get another tank, it will be 48" long, 18"-24" wide, and 20"-22" tall. I'd run a couple 250w MH on that.
 
Thanks Norman,

I'm limited to 17" total by the space its going in, which leaves 15" + 2" for the external overflow. Also, I forgot to mention I'll be running the 4x55w T-5 that are currently over my 55.

CL sounds like a good idea. Does anyone have a pump recommendation? Also, will a CL be too much if I also plan to participate in the MJ mod workshop? ;-)

Thanks All

C
 
How about drilling the bottom and doing an internal overflow. The extra 2" of inside space makes a big difference.

If you use the modded MJ, you won't need a CL, but CL can be set up to keep the bottom/back of your tank clear of detritus better then MJs.

I'll be doing MJ and CL on my 72. I have a Mag7 on the CL right now, but will switch to an Eheim, I think. The Mag noticeably raises my tank temp.
 
sfsuphysics said:
Personally if it was me, i'd do overflow across the whole back, but that's because I'm wild that way! :D That and I've seen first hand what a single cornered overflow can do if the flow isn't right you can get one side of the tank's surface water just spinning in a circle and not getting sucked over.
Click to expand...

Isn't that the Anthony Calfo style overflow? I was just reading about it last night - for the next big tank. I'm thinking of just ordering a custom starphire with high over flow that runs, almost all the way, across the back of the tank.

Okay, when Charles is done - I say tank tour in his house. We can drop by and bring present for the new tank (frags of corals) :D.

Good luck on the build and the up coming baby

Norman, I've heard, from RC, that the Mag drive tends to leak on a CL, is that true?
 
Yep, Calfo style.

I've read the same thing regarding the Mags. I'm running one temporarily until I get a better pump, and I'm totally paranoid about it.

The first Mag I hooked up did leak between the impeller cover and the O-ring. I took it apart and found a flat spot on the O-ring that was the problem.

More so than an O-ring problem, I'm concerned about the cover developing a crack suddenly. I think I read about that happening to someone. Slow drip you can catch in time. Not good if the pump decides to cut loose all at once though.

Anyway, I have my temp Mag7 propped up over the sump so any drips will be contained, and I can check easily. No probs so far with this second pump.

I'll get to replacing the O-ring on the other one some time. I have Mags all over the place. Handy for mixing sw and doing water changes.
 
Charles - if you decide on the Calfo overflow, I would increase the depth of the tank from 15" to 20" plus. I think the depth adds more to the look of the tank. It's kind of hard to do land scapping with the LR's when you limited space.

Norman - what type of new pump are you thinking in replacing the Mag 7?
 
I'm unsure if it's a "Calfo Style" overflow. I thought the "Calfo Style" was an overflow that was inside the tank, with a little ledge to allow you to place corals. What I was talking about was having the back glass/acrylic be your overflow edge (teeth), I don't know if that's considered a "Calfo" style either... screw him, I'm calling it the Mike-fo overflow! :) Although I did see it done on a plywood tank in a similar fashion so I can't take full credit :)

Calfo Style
Advantage, large skimming area, ledge to place corals (especially good since they get a constant flow from water flowing over the edge
Disadvantage, it's in the tank taking up potential realestate, although doesn't have to be that large, if you have any sort of top (euro brace or whatever) you might not be able to fit your hand in there to clean/pull things out, still resticted on front to back depth (if this is an issue) since you still need to plumb the back, horizontally mounted bulkheads don't allow as much flow as vertical ones.

Mike-fo overflow
Advantage, large surface skim area, gives you full access to inside of tank, full access to overflow area, bottom mounted bulkheads move more water due to addition of head pressure of water ontop
Disadvantage, if there are space limitations can be problematic (although not too much, but needs to be as wide as the bulkhead), all external so if there happens to be a boo-boo and a leak it's going on the floor.
 
Here's a thred from RC
RC - Calfo overflow

trmiv (he's from Fremont, CA) - made a good one. I'm not sure if he's a bar member though. I'd love to check out his tank.

Of course if it's the regular size bulk head, you'll have that issue with the back. You can always get bulbheads that doesn't that much room, half the dept.

Mike is your "Mike-fo overlfow" - a patented idea? :D [/url]
 
Alvin, probably an Eheim 1262... which unfortunately is rated the same wattage as a Mag7 I think.

Mike, you're right on the Calfo. I've been using the term Calfo very loosely in reference to full length overflow... the main benefit being the ability to skim the thinnest layer of scummy water.
 
Hey Guys,

Alvin - thanks for the great link.

All - thanks for all the tips.

In contemplating the benefits of a coast to coast and weighing the extra depth I came up with something new. What do you this about smaller internal boxes in the corners joined by a coast to coast that is shallow... maybe 1-2 inches? Here's a pic...

mini-tankonly3.jpg


Benefits should be a slow and quiet top skim and quiet drain, while still giving me the additional 2" of depth (except at the very top of the tank).

I think it would be best to have a 1" bulkhead where the C2C contacts each of the corner boxes. PVC would then continue through the bottom of the box.

Questions:

Is this insane/worth the trouble and cost?
What problems do you foresee?
What improvements would you propose?

-Charles
 
What is the role of the coast to coast in this design? I don't see the benefit. (Probably my shortcoming)

The size you are proposing now is very similar to our commercial 90 (48x18x25), and we've been extremely happy with it. Ours is mounted a little high (so eye level is about 3/4s of the way up the tank), and while it's been harder to work in because of the height (we use step stools) we really like having it higher than the typical stand height.
 
Looks workable, Charles. I'd probably try something like that myself.

I'd run durso standpipes in the the boxes though... to reduce the height of the fall and keep the noise down.
 
I think I can answer my own question about the C2C: if one overflow pipe clogs and your return is pushing more water than your first overflow can handle, the C2C could save you before your transfer your sump volume to your carpet.

Here's a new question, any reason not to run the C2C along the bottom of the tank? Then it would be less obtrusive.

I second the Durso suggestion as well.
 
Hey Greg thanks for the tips.

So the benefits are:

1. No teeth on the overflow and lots of linear area mean that there will be a slow (quiet) flow of water into the C2C while still providing 1000 GPH (or more) of flow.

2. Because of the large linear area, the flow will be very efficient at pulling only a very small section from the top of the water skimming off the muck more efficiently.

3. With this design I get the extra 2" of depth I am limited to, while still getting 1 and 2 above. Meanwhile, I get to reduce the size of the boxes since I am no longer concerned with the linear area of overflow that they (no longer) provide.

As for placement... I was thinking thinking about the same thing, but planned to go a little lower. The top of the tank is planned for 61" from the floor... which means I will still need a step stool. Greg, what is it that you like about having it higher?

Norman - yes! I was thinking of something like a durso standpipe except that the durso opening will go through the hole that separates the boxes from the C2C. So the boxes will be dry, and only serve the purpose of hiding the pipes.

Finally, I plan to plumb the returns through the boxes as well.

Other toughts?
 
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