Reef nutrition

Patricks 50 gal. cube

time to update this thread...its been a while..

Picked up a few pieces from various spots little by little....now that parameters have stabled out for the most part ive decided to get going with the SPS already.

FTS
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Right side
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Left side
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Blood shrimp that seems to use this acro as a host
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My clowns that evict me from the tank every time they lay a new clutch of eggs
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Please excuse the shotty pix....i was too lazy to play with the settings
 
Nice, Patrick! :) Just look at those acros growing out. They don't look much like frags anymore. Very nicely balance tank. I love the open space. Too late for me to re-think my real estate. I just kept filling until it was full. Not always the best idea. Very attractive Fire Shrimp. I've had two long term Fire Shrimp. My current is a female that acts as my fish cleaner. They wait in line for her service. My Midas Blenny especially likes a massage and moved it's roosting spot to be closer to Elvira! Thanks for the update.
 
eldiablosrt8 said:
looking good pat.... keep up the good work
Thanks! just trying to get back to where i left off...only on a much smaller scale...BTW how you liking the reef angel...i was looking into controllers but havnt taken the time to do comparisons with them all..


sfsuphysics said:
Uh oh, went with acros, and clams? You just increased your workload by a factor of 2 :D But it does look good :)

Thanks Mike...The water changes on this tank (15 gal. weekly) are a whole lot easier than the 180 gal i had (50 gal weekly...then 50 gallons bi-weekly...then 25 gal when i started to get sick of water changes lol)

screebo said:
Nice, Patrick! :) Just look at those acros growing out. They don't look much like frags anymore. Very nicely balance tank. I love the open space. Too late for me to re-think my real estate. I just kept filling until it was full. Not always the best idea. Very attractive Fire Shrimp. I've had two long term Fire Shrimp. My current is a female that acts as my fish cleaner. They wait in line for her service. My Midas Blenny especially likes a massage and moved it's roosting spot to be closer to Elvira! Thanks for the update.

Thanks John..im lovin the open space look as well but it sucks because im running out of room for coral..lol..this was never a problem with the larger tank..im already looking into a custom one from reef savvy that fits the stand flush on all sides. (36''x30''x20''high) but i really dont want to go through another cycle again. your right about fire shrimp...alota personality in those litte buggers..they eat the glue off my hand when im gluing frags down..
 
thanks Mel....when are you gettin yours up n runnin....these things are going to be needing some trimming to make room for others so let me know
 
Just saw your tank. Love it. I just went from a 180 to this tank as well. Love it.

I love the color from the cad light, but the fan is to noisy. I am going to take mine apart and replace with better fans. If it works out I'll give you the info.

Love tha extra large stand, but if I had that I would then just get a bigger tank.

How are you keeping the water in the tank with 2 mp 40s?
 
Qwiv said:
Just saw your tank. Love it. I just went from a 180 to this tank as well. Love it.

I love the color from the cad light, but the fan is to noisy. I am going to take mine apart and replace with better fans. If it works out I'll give you the info.

Love tha extra large stand, but if I had that I would then just get a bigger tank.

How are you keeping the water in the tank with 2 mp 40s?

Thanks! You'll find that the maintenance with this tank is a WHOLE lot easier than a 180 gal.

I gotta agree with you on the light. The color is great but that fan has to go. I'm looking into changing mine out to a 250w reefbrite pendant soon so i can start keeping sps in the lower regions. One of the few downsides i found with getting a smaller tank is the limited realestate for new corals. Eventhough i just started this tank recently, ive already looked into custom tanks that fit the stand flush. (36''x30''x20'') but seeing the $850 price tag quoted from reefsavvy, i opted to pass for now and just make the best of what i have.

The MP40's on this little cube cause some crazy flow, but i have to place them low and turn them down to about 80% to avoid spillage. Ive already had to change out the majority of my sand twice to larger grains to keep sand storms to a minimal. One of my wetsides recently crapped out on me so i only had 1 MP40 running @ 100% and found it was adequate flow for the entire tank when combined with the return pump.

Did you purchase the whole CADlight system or piece everything together? going from a 180 to the Cad id figure you would have had alot of extra oversized equipment as i did...
 
I got the complete package as I left the 180 gal up while moving. Little of the gear would even fit this tank as it it so large. The only thing I could use again was the controller, but decided to go to an apex, just because.

I sourced a fan that will work as a replacement for about $20. I took the light apart this weekend and sourced the one that comes with it. It is rated at 46 dB which is about right. I found a fan with slightly more air flow and 30dB. That should get it under the sound from your overflow. Want me to order a second one? it is an easy replacement.

While I was looking inside the light I found the LEDs where basically MR16 bulbs. I have been concerned with how bright they are and not allowing the fish to sleep. Some of my fish swim around all night long. Been thinking about using the socket to install some more powerful CREEs and adding 4 small LEDs as moonlights until swapping the MH ballast for 250 watts and increasing the cooling, or using the space for the MH to swap to a DIY LED fixture. I like the look of the fixture and it is easy to MOD.

What are you using as a return pump? I have the stock one, but 1000 gph is way to much. Have an eheim 1260 in there now and thing that is a little to much.
 
Qwiv said:
I got the complete package as I left the 180 gal up while moving. Little of the gear would even fit this tank as it it so large. The only thing I could use again was the controller, but decided to go to an apex, just because.

I sourced a fan that will work as a replacement for about $20. I took the light apart this weekend and sourced the one that comes with it. It is rated at 46 dB which is about right. I found a fan with slightly more air flow and 30dB. That should get it under the sound from your overflow. Want me to order a second one? it is an easy replacement.

While I was looking inside the light I found the LEDs where basically MR16 bulbs. I have been concerned with how bright they are and not allowing the fish to sleep. Some of my fish swim around all night long. Been thinking about using the socket to install some more powerful CREEs and adding 4 small LEDs as moonlights until swapping the MH ballast for 250 watts and increasing the cooling, or using the space for the MH to swap to a DIY LED fixture. I like the look of the fixture and it is easy to MOD.

What are you using as a return pump? I have the stock one, but 1000 gph is way to much. Have an eheim 1260 in there now and thing that is a little to much.

Yea getting ANY equipment to fit the CAD was a challange. I wanted to try out some Zeo stuff this time around since dosing for a smaller tank would be much more affordable, but the space for another reactor just isnt there.

I didnt know you can change out the ballast to 250W. Which ballast are you planning on getting? I was looking into the Giesmann infinity due to the fact that it was 250w but if the ballast are swapable i might stick with this light and run the same mods. How many fans are you modding into the fixture? It seems mine only has 1 fan (right side if your facing it) and the other 3 are just vents. If i decide on modding the fixture ill order some fans. AFA the M16 bulbs I found that Ushio and nanocustoms make some nice ones. Your right about them being too bright. My anemone sat directly under one of them and did not look so good for the first week i had them on at night. I put mine on a timer set to shut off 15 minutes after the T5's. Maybe using them as supplemental lighting to the halide to minimize the shadowing effect might make them more usefull. i was looking into the nanocustom ones seen here:

http://reefbuilders.com/2010/03/16/mr16-led-spotlights-nanocustoms-revealed-reefstock-2010/

I think those paired with a 14k phoenix along with a couple fiji purple or aquablue+ would make for a pretty sweet glow. My other choice would be to stick with my original plan and get the reefbrite pendant, but if i go that route id still have to get the M80 ballast and radium.

I went with a quietone 4000. Its rated @ 991 GPH @ 0' head. It pushes alot stronger than i thought it would making the overflow alot noisier than i would like but im thinking of teeing it off to a chiller. Are you having trouble keeping your temp down after going to this size tank? With the TruVu i only had a +/- 2 degree shift in my tank but now im seeing the tank go from 77 degrees in the AM all the way to 84 degrees on warmer days after the lights shut off.
 
I have never tried the Zeo stuff. I am dosing (2) part and auto top off from a remote location. All the equipment is in a side table by my couch and pipes over to the tank. The only thing in the sump is the skimmer and a 2 little fishes reactor with nothing in it, T'd off return pump. I have the CAD Lights fan over the sump and their silly light. The fan is pretty noisy, but pushes a lot of air. I should look at replacing that fan as well. It isn't to bad in the cabinet.

The ballast on the light is remote so you could cut off the end and wire to any ballast you want. Install a standard connector and your good to go. There is only one fan in the fixture which I will be replacing with another fan. When I talked to CAD lights, they had better cooling with one fan. Taking apart the fixture and that makes sense as you get a cross ventilation. Installing a 250 will make the fixture hotter of course. That is why I think LEDs will be better for an upgrade. Get the PAR from the LEDs and fill in the color spectrum with the T5s. For right now, replacing the fan is fine. Going to order later this week, so let me know if you want one.

Haven't had a temp issue yet, but it doesn't get hot in my place. My controller will power off lights if the temp is to high. Never, nor will I ever use a chiller.
I have a fan in the stand to remove hot air. Down sizing a return pump should help with temps. Thinking eheim 1250 but I am going to raise the duruso and mod the overflow first with the 1260 to see if I can get the sound where I want it.

I have a CVR aquafuge on the tank. The 25" model fits the tank almost perfect. Just need to make a light shield. You can T it off the return or install the feed pump in the overflow which makes a clean install. Going bare bottom so having a remote sand bed and fuge will be nice.
 
finalphaze987 said:
xcaret said:
Nice looking skimmer !!
Love those ATI they look so clean

Thanks. The thing skims like a beast. it might be overkill for such a small tank, but id hate to see it go to waste. The only gripe i have with it is restarting the pumps. The thread wheels are pretty touchy, which is why im thinking of changing out to the pinwheels.
Real nice looking tank, Patrick. BTW, even after converting from the mesh wheel to the pin wheel, the adjustment wheel is very touchy and if your sump level raises more than a half inch, it puts the skimmer into overdrive and overflow. This occurs in my tank when the JB ATO float valve sticks and it over fills the sump. "Usually" I dunk and rinse my float valve every couple days to prevent salt build up from causing it to stick. My ATi BM does a great job "most of the time" when it's not stalling out or going into overdrive. :(
 
Qwiv said:
I have never tried the Zeo stuff. I am dosing (2) part and auto top off from a remote location. All the equipment is in a side table by my couch and pipes over to the tank. The only thing in the sump is the skimmer and a 2 little fishes reactor with nothing in it, T'd off return pump. I have the CAD Lights fan over the sump and their silly light. The fan is pretty noisy, but pushes a lot of air. I should look at replacing that fan as well. It isn't to bad in the cabinet.

The ballast on the light is remote so you could cut off the end and wire to any ballast you want. Install a standard connector and your good to go. There is only one fan in the fixture which I will be replacing with another fan. When I talked to CAD lights, they had better cooling with one fan. Taking apart the fixture and that makes sense as you get a cross ventilation. Installing a 250 will make the fixture hotter of course. That is why I think LEDs will be better for an upgrade. Get the PAR from the LEDs and fill in the color spectrum with the T5s. For right now, replacing the fan is fine. Going to order later this week, so let me know if you want one.

Haven't had a temp issue yet, but it doesn't get hot in my place. My controller will power off lights if the temp is to high. Never, nor will I ever use a chiller.
I have a fan in the stand to remove hot air. Down sizing a return pump should help with temps. Thinking eheim 1250 but I am going to raise the duruso and mod the overflow first with the 1260 to see if I can get the sound where I want it.

I have a CVR aquafuge on the tank. The 25" model fits the tank almost perfect. Just need to make a light shield. You can T it off the return or install the feed pump in the overflow which makes a clean install. Going bare bottom so having a remote sand bed and fuge will be nice.

I wish i could keep my equipment at a remote location. For now i have everything cramped in the stand.
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all that equipment fit nicely under the stand for the 180 but gets a bit bulky when working in the new stand.

When i did my over flow i used the hofer gurgle buster:
http://home.everestkc.net/jrobertson57268/HGB/

I found it fit the overflow alot easier and allowed more room for the return piping. By using 2 pieces of airline tubing instead of 1 i managed to get it pretty silent.

The aquafuge sounds interesting. do you have it hanging on the back of your tank with the light tree or is it off to one side? A fuge is a sacrifice i had to make when setting up the tank due to the limited space. Now im kinda regretting it. I was going to hang a couple of the Tunze aquawind fans on the back of the tank that would come on once the tamk hit 81 degrees to help cool things down a bit, so that might get in the way of things.
 
screebo said:
finalphaze987 said:
xcaret said:
Nice looking skimmer !!
Love those ATI they look so clean

Thanks. The thing skims like a beast. it might be overkill for such a small tank, but id hate to see it go to waste. The only gripe i have with it is restarting the pumps. The thread wheels are pretty touchy, which is why im thinking of changing out to the pinwheels.
Real nice looking tank, Patrick. BTW, even after converting from the mesh wheel to the pin wheel, the adjustment wheel is very touchy and if your sump level raises more than a half inch, it puts the skimmer into overdrive and overflow. This occurs in my tank when the JB ATO float valve sticks and it over fills the sump. "Usually" I dunk and rinse my float valve every couple days to prevent salt build up from causing it to stick. My ATi BM does a great job "most of the time" when it's not stalling out or going into overdrive. :(

I couldnt agree with you more. They work great when conditions are ideal, but once water levels fluctuate you either have a really dirty skimmer neck or an overflowed skimmer. I use the osmolator for top off so as long as i remember to refill the top off container low water levels arnt a problem. However anytime i shut off the main pump for water changes, the danger of it overflowing always comes to mind. I was thinking of picking up a small float valve that i could install on the outer part of the lid that would cut off power to one of the pumps if triggered. Just like the ones seen on the new ATB deluxe skimmers. That way even if the case of an overflow, atleast the skimmate wouldnt get back in to the tank.

I ended up modding the pumps with the red demon wheels. Theyre OK but i like the fine bubbles the mesh wheels produced so im thinking of going back to them. If you need a Red demon one i think i have one or two extra laying around i dont think ill be using. I ordered 4 of them when i got em just incase i needed replacements.
 
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