Plumbing Question for new tank

Discussion in 'Equipment' started by Sfork, Jan 4, 2011.

  1. Sfork

    Sfork Guest

    Need some help finding info on drilling and plumbing a new tank. I tried searching a bit but cant find any solid info. Can someone point me in the right direction?

    Thanks
     
  2. Qwiv

    Qwiv Guest

    What are you looking to do?
     
  3. Sfork

    Sfork Guest

    Drill a 33gal mr. Aqua tank and have it drain to a 10 gallon sump. I'll probably have someone drill the tank but I still wouldent know about wha bulkheads and stuff to use.


    Thanks
     
  4. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer President

    Probably go with a 1" bulkhead
     
  5. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

    1" pretty much OK for drain.
     
  6. Plumstr8

    Plumstr8 Guest

    Single 1" Overflow is rated to handle 600 gph, you always want to bigger anyway. If you stick a 1" pvc ball valve somewhere before it enters the sump you can throttle the overflow to stop unwanted air gasping and excess drain noise.
     
  7. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

    That's exactly what I did on a 90G. so get to drill Tim !! ;)
     
  8. Qwiv

    Qwiv Guest

    You never put a valve on your drain line unless you have a back-up drain.
     
  9. Sfork

    Sfork Guest

    cool thanks!
     
  10. hiepatitis

    hiepatitis Guest

    Instead of putting a valve I used a Stockman standpipe to limit the air causing the cascading sound. It is similar to a Durso except it takes up less room.

    I would go with 1". Do you have an internal overflow?
     
  11. Plumstr8

    Plumstr8 Guest

    Whats the problem with a valve? Ive done that on plenty of tanks, works great!

    If you close the valve to much = you will raise the tank level and starve the sump pump.

    That might also cause an overflow in the main tank, but most sumps dont have enough water in the final baffle area to overflow the tank.
    Unless you have a 30 Gal. sump on a 10 Gal. tank?

    You can adjust the valve by closing it slowly until the pump starves and opening it back up until you get the desired sump level.

    Either way, hope this helps.
     
  12. Sfork

    Sfork Guest

    I was gonna get something like this.
    http://www.glass-holes.com/Super-Nano-con-Dientes-Overflow-Kit-nanodienteskit.htm
    But I'm wondering if I can just head over to taps plastic and have them cut the parts for me(the teeth would be tricky). Also I don't feel right buying the 1 3/4 Diamond Coated Holesaw just to make 3 holes. are the returns typically the same size as the overflow?

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Plumstr8

    Plumstr8 Guest

    Its not to bad, use a guide and a wood router to cut the overflow slots. Another member let me in on that trick, it works really well.
     
  14. xcaret

    xcaret Supporting Member

    [/quote]Whats the problem with a valve? Ive done that on plenty of tanks, works great!

    If you close the valve to much = you will raise the tank level and starve the sump pump.

    That might also cause an overflow in the main tank, but most sumps dont have enough water in the final baffle area to overflow the tank.
    Unless you have a 30 Gal. sump on a 10 Gal. tank?

    You can adjust the valve by closing it slowly until the pump starves and opening it back up until you get the desired sump level.

    Either way, hope this helps.[/quote]

    If there's build up in the pipe, valve or X might lead to a spill if down-flow is less than the volume traveling back into the main tank.
    I installed two 1" valved on the drain, one after the bulkhead in case I need to shut water off and the second is after a T that controls the flow to the fuge.
     
  15. Orion

    Orion Guest


    I agree with Mike, the valve is not a problem at all.
    All the contrary it will be a big help in case you get a power outage and your pump stop sending water back into the main tank but the overflow still drains into the sump.

    I have one in my drain line and I have never had a problem in 6 years.
     
  16. GreshamH

    GreshamH Guest

    They are only rated that way if installed vertically (bottom of tank) If you run them horizontal expect far less, like nearly half un many cases.
     
  17. tuberider

    tuberider Guest


    +1 Not to mention the constant battle against flushing and gurgling.
     
  18. GreshamH

    GreshamH Guest

    AAARRRGGG my old nemesis on my last 30g tank (set-up for 10 years). That thing was how I learned all the damn little tricks to lesson the noise.
     
  19. tuberider

    tuberider Guest

    Yeah, constant tweaking because it's never as simple as one thing or another, it's a constant battle.
     
  20. GreshamH

    GreshamH Guest

    I ended up ripping the RBL bulkhead 90degree elbow off and going with a 1" T.

    Tim, if you go with that set-up in your post, use a T coming out of the bulkhead.
     

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