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Randy's Red Sea Reefer 250

Day 130: Over focusing on nutrient export may have done me in for the short term for acros.

If you recall, I thought I was having a SPS bleaching issue. I was seeing colors go lighter and/or white so I immediately assumed that it was too much light. After lowering my Radion light intensity down 15% or so, I thought things were getting better, but then my Aussie gold torch started paling 2-3 weeks after I added bio-pellets. And then I realized the crazy growth I used to have with my chaeto (roughly doubling in size every 5-7 days), almost completely stopped. On top of that, pretty much no sign that coralline was on anything except snails and euphyllia skeletons (which I believe they came with when they went in the tank) and at this point I expected to see at least some growing on the rocks.

So then it dawned on me. Things weren't probably bleaching, but more likely I was starving my reef and things were paling because of it. The whitening happened over weeks/months, not right away. I had a very light bio-load (two clowns and a flame angel - and sometimes a six-line wrasse) and was only feeding lightly once a day and giving mysis and reef chili once a week. Adding bio-pellets when I didn't have any noticeable nitrates or phosphates was probably not the best decision and likely made things worse. I figured everything would be affected by this, but maybe the softies, montis, chalices, and euphyilla were able to grab some nutrients as their growth seemed okay.

So now I have been feeding 2-3 times a day with a mixure of NLS pellets, mysis, and reef chili for about a month now. I am going to add Oyster Feast to the rotation as well. Phosphates and nitrates are still undetectable and things appear to be getting better. Any sticks I've added within the last 2 months are showing much better polyp extension than I have ever seen in my tank and show no signs of progressive paling. Any sticks before that, who knows if they'll be able turn a corner and get better. One or two seem to be coloring up a bit, and the others don't seem dead, but they're pretty thinned out and pale/white. I haven't decided yet whether or not to turn off the bio-pellets yet, but I'm slowly adding more to the bio-load. Added a leopard wrasse, tomini tang, and a yellow watchman goby/pistol shrimp combo so far.

I have also added some more coral. What can I say, I'm a junkie. Here are some macros from a few of the new additions.

Maricultured green with purple tips acro (Aquatic Collection)
Day_0128_20170110_7311.jpg


Red tabling acro (from @bee505 DBTC)
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Australian pink tipped elegance coral I picked up from Aquatic Collection today.
Day_0128_20170110_7289.jpg


Red w/ yellowish/green streaking chalice from Neptune's
Day_0128_20170110_7294.jpg


Utter chaos paly from CRC New Year's Day sale.
Day_0128_20170109_7271.jpg


Original Mummy Eye Chalice (from @bee505 DBTC)
Day_0128_20170110_7301.jpg


A no name green/red/pink chalice from Neptune's
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All pictures were taken under Radion XR15w Pro G4 @ 20,000K lighting (except red tabling acro - that was at 10,000K)
 
Last edited:
roostertech said:
How do you transfer your paly from the plug to rock? Cut it off with bone cutter?
Click to expand...

My tool choice for zoas/palys is a #10 scalpel blade and tweezers

If it's on a frag plate with superglue and not a lot of growth yet, I usually just pop it off and accept the superglue into tank after Bayer dip as long as it's not a big glob. If it's got some growth on the plug/rock, I kind of cut/grind under the zoa/paly matting with the scalpel and take some of the plug/rock with it so that I'm actually taking off plug/rock and not directly pulling the matting off. If I have to cut that matting between two polyps at some point, I'd rather do that than take the plug/rock into my tank. This method probably requires more patience and a steady hand especially with the smaller polyps, but you import less plug/rock into your tank.

I can't stress enough that you should wear gloves if you use scalpels, not just because of the palytoxin, but because the scalpels are extremely sharp and can easily cut you if you slip while holding a rock/frag. I use a pair of tight fitting gardening gloves.

You can get a hundred disposable blades and a handle for $8 on amazon.
 
Last edited:
RandyC said:
My tool choice for zoas/palys is a #10 scalpel blade and tweezers

If it's on a frag plate with superglue and not a lot of growth yet, I usually just pop it off and accept the superglue into tank after Bayer dip as long as it's not a big glob. If it's got some growth on the plug/rock, I kind of cut/grind under the zoa/paly matting with the scalpel and take some of the plug/rock with it so that I'm actually taking off plug/rock and not directly pulling the matting off. If I have to cut that matting between two polyps at some point, I'd rather do that than take the frag/rock into my tank. This method probably requires more patience and a steady hand especially with the smaller polyps, but you import less plug/rock into your tank.

I can't stress enough that you should wear gloves if you use scalpels, not just because of the palytoxin, but because the scalpels are extremely sharp and can easily cut you if you slip while holding a rock/frag. I use a pair of tight fitting gardening gloves.

You can get hundred disposable blades and a handle for $8 on amazon.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the cool lead on scalpel blades. I have been using exacto with marginal results.

+1 on the palytoxin and cuts. I've seen the pictures. They are not pretty.:confused:
 
Day 148

The problem I was having with paling corals was definitely a low nutrient problem. The original acros I got initially are all rebounding, coloring up, getting some polyp extension, and new polyps are popping up since I've been purposely overfeeding around 6-8 weeks ago. I've paid a little price though for grossly overfeeding with a tiny bit hair algae, but it's not too bad; I'm pulling back a little on the feeding and all should balance out. I also started dosing AcroPower yesterday, so hopefully that will help ease some of the need for overfeeding the tank and providing the nitrogen that the corals need. Plus, I want my Tomini tang to actually pick at the rocks and algae, but right now he's just fat and lazy.

I did have a loss last week. Elegance coral bit the dust. Either brown jelly disease or the mysterious elegance coral syndrome (ECS) was the culprit. Death was fast, about two weeks after getting it. Apparently, the rumor is true, elegance corals are touchy little bastards. Haven't decided if I want to gamble on another one yet.

I have TONS of banded trochus snail babies. Probably no less than 100 in my tank. I'm assuming they'll die off once food runs out, but I wonder how much calc and alk they suck up since they need it for their shells. If you want some let me know, I'm happy to give any supporting member some.

Picked up this acro frag from Aquatic Collection. Looks like a purple tipped bonsai acro.
Top View
Day_0148_20170128_0096.jpg

Side View
Day_0148_20170128_0116.jpg


Emerald on Fire Zoa from CRC
Day_0148_20170128_0131.jpg


Got this Palau Nepthea from @Yippee. The color on this thing is awesome! Thanks Yippee!
Day_0148_20170128_0065.jpg


Strawberry Fields montipora from Neptune's
Day_0148_20170128_0102.jpg


All pictures were taken under Radion XR15w Pro G4 @ 20,000K lighting
 
I'm currently having the same issue with pale colors. Have been trying to feed more. Also have four fish in TTM to increase bioload and obviously because they're beautiful fish :). Hopefully my increased feeding will help color things up.


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How many trochus do you want? I've probably got too many, and have babies growing. Could probably give away 10 grown trochus? I'm in Palo Alto.


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