Cali Kid Corals

Roc's Tank crashing

Temp drop is a problem.
I was under the impression that the power strip controlled the lights and the skimmer.
I would suggest multiple circuits if possible. If nothing else, more than one power strip to divide up the load. I have 3 separate circiuts. One for lights and one that runs a return pump and a heater and another one that runs a pump and a heater.
I have a battery back up UPS for one of the two return pumps.
The titanium impeller pump passes a lot of heat back in the water so my heaters almost never come on. A fan controlled by temp is my chiller. It usually only comes on on very hot days or when the halides are on.
Redundancy is your friend.
 
Bad idea. One device fails and takes out the whole strip.
I have a separate GFCI for almost every device.
If one GFCI trips then only one device or maybe two are down.
 
JAR said:
Temp drop is a problem.
I was under the impression that the power strip controlled the lights and the skimmer.
I would suggest multiple circuits if possible. If nothing else, more than one power strip to divide up the load. I have 3 separate circiuts. One for lights and one that runs a return pump and a heater and another one that runs a pump and a heater.
I have a battery back up UPS for one of the two return pumps.
The titanium impeller pump passes a lot of heat back in the water so my heaters almost never come on. A fan controlled by temp is my chiller. It usually only comes on on very hot days or when the halides are on.
Redundancy is your friend.
Click to expand...


yea, I thought it was a great idea to put everything hidden under the tank, but now I wish I would have been a litte smarter when I did this build. having mutiable outlets would be good, I think at the least the powerheads will be on their own circut so in a repeat case at least they can provide some water movement and heat
 
I had a power strip fail due to some salt creep years ago.
That one made the smoke detector go off so I caught it before the tank crashed and before the house caught on fire.
I learned most of my stuff from the school of hard knocks before the plethora of online resources were available .
 
Just how cold did it get? Below 60? If not I highly doubt that was the cause. Corals can take temp drops with very little problem. It's spikes that they have a hard time with.
 
Man, sorry to hear about the losses.

If you're looking for a controller, I have an ACIII available - just broke down my tank -
2 Ph probes, dc8, dc4hd, plus other stuff.

Ill post it for sale in the near future.
 
I honestly have no idea how cold it got, but if it got anywhere near room temp it would have been low 50's (no insulation in my house and it's been very cold)

The issue is I don't know how long it was sitting there but while it was sitting there was no movement in the tanj, no powerheads, no return, no skimmer, no nothing.

I think I would try to figure it out more if the whole basic way it went down wasn't the bigger problem. I am gonna hook it up now with the return and skimmer on a plug, power heads on another, heater and lights on another.
 
Might want to consider a battery backup if you're using Tunze or Vortech or a UPS if you're using Koralias or Seios or something that won't take a DC in.

I picked up a battery backup + charger for my Tunze for $100 total. It will run my pump for 36 hours straight.
 
I have Korilla pumps, and I do have a UPS but it needs a new battery. Maybe I will look into it.

So here is the coral concern.

Anything that is white and has no visable tissue will be removed tomorrow.

Anything that is brown or grey or white and sill has tissue will be gving the fighting chance to come back

Any pice that has some live tissuem but areas show RTN, the RTN sections will be removed and piece will be giving chance to come back


Funny thing the 2 most expensive SPS pieces I had in the tank (Red Planet and Garf Bonsai) both seems to have not only survived but only show slight color loss and both have full PE...........Werid.
 
Jason got a link to what you picked up? Was that in addition to the cost of the Tunze part (I have that all ready).
 
Hey Gresh, here's what I used:

Battery Tender 12 Volt 800 mA Waterproof Battery Charger: $37
http://www.batterymart.com/p-battery-tender-12v-800m-wp-battery-charger.html
The nice thing about this guy is that it's waterproof! You can get the non-waterproof version for $5 less, but I think this version is worth it.

12 Volt 35 Ah AGM Sealed Lead Acid Battery: $60
I read through the whole Tunze forum and based on Roger Vitko's comments, this one seems to be a perfect fit. It's bigger than you probably need, but it's only $60 so I figured it doesn't hurt to go bigger. Smaller versions are available for less.
http://www.batterymart.com/p-12v-35ah-sealed-lead-acid-battery-group-u1.html

The "Tunze Safety Connector" you need (for those who may not be familiar with the part) is this guy: $50
http://www.marinedepot.com/Tunze_Safety_Connector_for_6055_(NanoStream)_6101_6201_6301_Turbelle_Accessories_for_Aquarium_Powerheads-Tunze-TZ1611-FIPHAC-vi.html

All you need to get the battery backup working is the above three parts and maybe a couple wire crimp lugs to attach the Tunze Safety connector to the battery. I had them lying around the house. They look like this:
512-4468.jpg


So total for me was $150, but you can go cheaper and get a smaller battery and probably end up around $100. I tested the whole thing out overnight and it worked great. Fantastic piece of mind.
 
well here are some pics of the carnage. From the pics you can clearly see losses of the Rose Millie, Marc the shark acro, ORA Rascos blue, ORA Stubbard, Green Slimer, Jim's un-named arco, Alfreds malicultured acro. The surf and turf is most likely gone, and the ORA green millie isn't looking so hot. Marshall island Tri-color has lost a lot of color but ain't gone yet. :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

deadcorals001.jpg


deadcorals003.jpg


deadcorals004.jpg


deadcorals005.jpg


deadcorals006.jpg


deadcorals007.jpg


deadcorals008.jpg


deadcorals009.jpg
 
Roc, I think the one you have listed as the MI Tri Color is the MI lavender I gave you, if so, high five my friend :) Looks like you got some good growth and it's bouncing back, it's a rare coral and I'm happy to see it still kicking.

It looks like you've gotten over the hump, if you need to replace anything LMK I'll give you frags of whatever you need :)
 
tuberider said:
Roc, I think the one you have listed as the MI Tri Color is the MI lavender I gave you, if so, high five my friend :) Looks like you got some good growth and it's bouncing back, it's a rare coral and I'm happy to see it still kicking.

It looks like you've gotten over the hump, if you need to replace anything LMK I'll give you frags of whatever you need :)
Click to expand...


Oh all this time I thought it was the tri-color. yea it was growing really well, and hasn't shown nearly as much distress as some others. All permariters are back in check now, hopfuly I will see some color coming back real soon.
 
on the lemonade side of things, it might be an interesting opportunity to do weekly photo tracking of selected corals (shot under same photographic conditions/orientation etc) to show recovery vs time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top