RODI Replacement Cannisters

Discussion in 'Equipment' started by Jeff Rehling, May 10, 2019.

  1. MolaMola

    MolaMola Supporting Member

    Probably the latter then, thanks for the info. I use a little handheld TDS meter to test everywhere
  2. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer Past President

    Haha, no worries man. Tough to communicate through writing sometimes. Thanks for helping. That’s what this club is all about.
    ofzakaria likes this.
  3. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer Past President

    Never knew this. Thanks.
  4. ofzakaria

    ofzakaria Supporting Member

    Yeh I write fast using my tiny phone , and my horrible grammers do not help either ha ha.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  5. rygh

    rygh BOD

    So my usual plan:

    Sediment prefilters are easy. When they look ugly brown, replace. Cheap anyway.

    I measure TDS at output of RO unit.
    When it bumps up to about 3, I replace it.
    BUT : It starts out higher, run it for 15 minutes.

    For DI resins, they are color changing, so easy to know when to replace.

    For chloramines, which I have, I usually measure the "flush" water.
    As you start each run, you should be flushing RO membrane.
    Save a bit of that, and test with pool test kits. You can put extra drops in.
    If it is not 0, replace carbon pre-filters.

    I do measure final TDS output also. If it is not 0, something is really wrong.
    Coral reefer and ofzakaria like this.
  6. rygh

    rygh BOD

    I do want to emphasize: Crud can accumulate when RODI is idle.

    It really helps to flush membrane for a bit when you turn RODI on.
    Not just for membrane, but to get the crud out of prefilters.

    Do not measure TDS immediately. It can be very high for a short time.
    Coral reefer likes this.
  7. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer Past President

    I flush at the end too before I turn it off.
  8. Rostato

    Rostato Supporting Member

    I always here about this but don’t understand why it could be beneficial. You just going to flush it when you start it up anyway right?

    Plus if my float valve shuts off my unit I can’t run it to flush it anyway...
  9. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer Past President

    I don’t use float valve. Washing off whatever is stuck to the memrane before letting it sit for an extended period of times makes sense to me.
  10. Vhuang168

    Vhuang168 Supporting Member

    I use a Spectrapure unit with auto flushing.

    Input before everything is 300+. After Carbon before membrane is slightly higher, usually just a a few points higher.

    After membrane is around 4. After DI is 0.

    I use 98% membranes from Spectrapure.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Coral reefer likes this.
  11. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer Past President

    Is it a spectrapure auto flush unit or other brand? And do you like it? I thought it was a cool idea, but I remember reading some negative reviews of whatever one brs sells.
  12. Vhuang168

    Vhuang168 Supporting Member

    Coral reefer likes this.
  13. Flagg37

    Flagg37 Supporting Member

    Can you buy the auto flush separately and just add it to any system? I use the RO part and use it for drinking water and then the DI just for the tank. Am I able to have it only auto flush when I use the DI?
  14. Vhuang168

    Vhuang168 Supporting Member

    Not retrofitable. I had to buy a new unit even though I already had 1 or their manual flush units.

    The RO Buddy from Aquatic Life has a booster pump as well as being an auto flush.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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