Surviving Mr.D

Discussion in 'Tank Journals' started by ofzakaria, Mar 2, 2019.

  1. ofzakaria

    ofzakaria Supporting Member

    Hello all,
    Relatively new to this forum. Been in reefing for 12 years or so now. Over the last 6 years I have been running SPS dominant systems.
    I like experimenting and trying diffrent things. For the last 3 years I have been running zeovit and very happy with it.
    Now, why we here and why the weird title:

    I recently dealt with someone, Let's call him Mr.D, to host my coral while I transition to my new home.
    Long story short the guy cheated me and kill/stole all my coral and live stock.

    Beware of this services...

    Blissful Blue Aquatics
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2019 at 1:01 AM
  2. ofzakaria

    ofzakaria Supporting Member

    Since I already did my setup couple of months ago, I will describe the earlier steps just for completeness.
    My system details are:
    Display: custom 165G
    Sump: trigger 39 emerald
    Circulation: 6 mp40s QD
    Return pump: RD3 100 watt. Used to have vectra L1 but was super disappointed with its performance after I measured the flow rate. Really bad performance with any head pressure. I have a thread about the details of the test I can share if someone wanted it.
    Lights: 3 AI hydra 52 HD + 4 T5 retro fixture all in canopy. The pictures of the old system were all kessil ap700
    Skimmer: currently bubble king mini 200 with RD3 speedy along with octopus skimmer cup cleaner. Been running it for 2 years and like it. That being said, last week i also ordered the BK double cone 200+rds3. I Will try it and choose between the 2 skimmers to run long term.
    Zeovit reactor: PRS autozeo reactor.
    CA reactor: dastaco A2 extream. Used to do 2 part dosing b-ionic
    Carbon: though I have carbon reactor I use passive carbon now.
    GFO: zeovit do not use GFO but I have a rowphos reactor on stand by for any emergency po4 spike
    Temp control: 3 heaters (700 watt) and chiller
    Control: apex for temp control, power on off control and motoring. One thing about me is I try to avoid having everything apex, I do not like every thing they do so I am selective of what I put on and use apex for.
    KH guardian(by far this is the best equipment I have in my system)
    Ca, K I use salifert.
    Po4, no3 I use redsea.
    Other elements I do once or twice a month ICP(over kill I know but again I experiment alot and use the icp to see what are the results. 1 test every 2 months should have been enough otherwise)

    Some pictures of my equipments. Will do better pictures when I clean the sump area bit, its messy now.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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    Last edited: Mar 3, 2019
  3. ofzakaria

    ofzakaria Supporting Member

    Tank placment is always so important.
    - This time I had the system set in the living room away from windows and sun light.
    - I always add reinforcement beams under the tank in the crawlspace

    For plumbing nothing fancy. Animal bean overflow

    For sand I use dry sand cause zeovit do not like live sand. 1" sand bed, I do not like DSB because of it's long term issues and maintenance demand.

    80% dry rocks and 20% live rocks aquascaping. Picture of the aquascaping 20181206_195347.jpeg
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2019
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  4. ofzakaria

    ofzakaria Supporting Member

    I run a mixing station and use Tropic marine pro salt.
    I use this cause I run my system at natural sea level parameters per zeovit system.
    This salt one of the few ones that have low alk without having low K which is critical parameters when you run natural sea level.
    That being said, this time my first tank fill I used sea water to fill not salt water mix. It went well and i liked it. I will start getting sea water once a month to do some water changes using natural sea water.

    For water change I religiously do 20% weekly water change (zeovit recommendation) the first year of the system age, then when system become mature I do every other week(my own way, zeo recommend weekly water change always).

    Here are the levels I like to keep my system at:
    Salinity: 35ppt
    Temp: 76
    Kh: 6.8~7
    K+: 400mg

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    Last edited: Mar 3, 2019
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  5. ofzakaria

    ofzakaria Supporting Member

    After plumbing and leak testing. Am ready for first water fill.
    As I said I used sea water delivered from this amazing guy named bob..super funny and nice guy who run sea water delivery buissness.
    Filled in the water which came to 175G total.
    In zeovit knowing what's the water volume is important cause all the dosing depend on the water volume.

    Ok here we go.
    Day 1:
    Place the sand, 1" sand bed.
    I already soacked the sand for 4 weeks with RODI rinsing its weekly until po4 of the soaked water is zero.

    Fill in seawater.

    Turned on the lights, skimmer, pumps, powerheads...etc
    When I did that i also tested for stray voltage
    All was well, I did not have measurable voltage(well it was like 20mv so we good)

    Setup up the zeo reactor. Based in my water volume I need 1.75 liter of zelites.
    I like to soak zeolites for 1 day in rodi before use it. So I already have the zeolites soaked a day before.

    Run the zeovit reactor. The flow rate of the reactor should not exceed 100gph per 1 liter. I run mine at 150gph. Reactor flow rate is important in zeovit. One day I will do a write up about zeovit details.

    Now dosing. Since it's new system i follow the 14 days cycle dosing. One of the powers of zeovit is, it's the fastest system to add live stocks with short cycle.

    Per the 14 days cycle here is my dosing details
    Day 1
    ZEObak: 5 ml per 25 gallons
    ZEOstart: 10 ml per 25 gallons
    Sponge Power: 3 ml per 25 gallons

    Day 2 and 3
    Dosing break.

    Day 4:
    Doseing of ZEObak, ZEOstart and Sponge Power as recommended on the products label.
    Zeobak: 7 drops daily till day 14
    Zeostart: 0.7ml 2 times a day
    Sponge power: 7 drops daily

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    Last edited: Mar 3, 2019
  6. ofzakaria

    ofzakaria Supporting Member

    Day 4 to day10:
    Tank quickly went through couple of algae phases. Brown algae then turned to green hair algae which is all normal. I wish I took pictures its amazin how quick these algae phases go by in zeovit compared to other cycling methods where each algae phase will take at least couple of weeks.
    Ince green hair algae comes it's good sign that we can move to the fun part. My greal hair algae came around day 7.

    Day 10
    This is the day I can add my first live stocks. I added 4 urchins for the hair algae. Some cleaner crew. Trick here is to go slow so I added 4 hermit crabs, 5 turbo snails, 5 astera snails. And a pair of algae blenny's

    Also this is the day I add carbon. I use zeovit carbon. Really good quality.
    This activated carbon is high capacity and to activate it, I soak the it in boiled rodi water and leave the carbon until water cooled down. Then rinse and add it to the system.

    I run carbon passively, meaning I place it in mesh bad and leave it inside the sump where water flow through and around it.

    Day 14 and beyond
    Test all majore parameters once a week (except kg I test daily with the khg).
    Dosing switch to what's recomended on the labels. For my system

    Zeobak: 7 drops twice a week
    Zeostart: 0.7ml 2 times a day
    Sponge power: 7 drops daily

    I also added bit more fish, again slowly. Added 2 fish a week.

    Pair of black storm clowns
    Choati wrass
    3 anthias lyretail(1 Male 2 femals)
    Sunburst anthias.
    Pair of cleaner shrimps
    5 peppermint shrimps so they situate before i start adding wrasses. Once I add wrasses it's hard to add peppermint shrimp as they got eaten on the way down to the rocks.
    More cleaner crew.

    At 1 month mark I added couple of test coral frags. Acros, hammer, acans, millie's, and a setosa frags.


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    Last edited: Mar 3, 2019
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  7. Great write up, and nice selection of fish. Interested to see how it comes along.
    ofzakaria likes this.
  8. ofzakaria

    ofzakaria Supporting Member

    Here is my mixing station. Nothing fancy.
    8 stages 150gph RODI unit.
    2x 65G container's one for fresh water the other for salt water.

    This time I plumbed some pipes from the garage where the rodi unit is to the tank which is right behind the wall where the mixing station is.
    On my previous systems i always had plumbing of 2 pipes from the tank to outside(one goes to home drain the other to salt water)

    This time I wanted to have the chiller and the ATO reservoir outside in the garage.
    So I plumbed 4 pipes through the wall to
    - push water from tank to sewer
    - push salt water from mixing station to tank
    - 2 pipes for chiller in/out
    And have ATO line through the wall to the sump.

    With all this, my water change is fully automated (not daily water change) and take no more than 10min.
    I have programing on my Alexa app where I say "Alexa do water change"
    Water pushed from tank to sewer then water is pumped in from mixing station.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  9. tankguy

    tankguy Supporting Member

    Lots of detail , jealous of your choati. Tried them twice and failed
  10. ofzakaria

    ofzakaria Supporting Member

    Yeh am lucky with this one. I got it from Ed from clear water aquarium. Healthy and eating like a pig. Curious personality alwayes in the front of the tank.

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  11. grizfyrfyter

    grizfyrfyter Guest

    Awesome write up!
  12. GabeB

    GabeB Supporting Member

    Wow amazing set up and great detail! Are you quarantining your fish?
  13. ofzakaria

    ofzakaria Supporting Member

    Unfortunately no. I have found it more troublesome and stress on fish when I quarantine.
    I have also found if the water is pristine, parameters are rock solid and fish are well fed (which I can do cause I dose carbon so no3 po4 is less concern ) I rarely have diseases.. I have not dealt with a fish disease for 3-4 years now...when ich comes it clear by itself and I think its because fish is not stressed from water condition...

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    Last edited: Mar 3, 2019
  14. grizfyrfyter

    grizfyrfyter Guest

    I quarantine just to make sure fish don't have velvet and brooklynella (lost entire systems in the past). I don't even try to keep ich out anymore.

    I also have only bought two fish in the last year, an algae blenny for the frag tank and a file fish for aptasia that now lives in the refugium because he likes to eat coral when he ran out of aptasia. There is a coral (eating) beauty angel in there too.
    ofzakaria likes this.
  15. ofzakaria

    ofzakaria Supporting Member

    Nothing wrong against quarantine. I bet it's the right thing to do. Am just so bad at my style is more jesus take the wheels kind of thing when it come to fish lol...
    By no means I am advocating for no quarantine.

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  16. ashburn2k

    ashburn2k Webmaster Staff Member

    Paged you

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  17. grizfyrfyter

    grizfyrfyter Guest

    There is a solid theory about having "sterile" system and how it lowers the need for the fish to have a strong immune system. If something does get by, it can wipe them all out.

    I quarantine in tank water and just to observe, after a week I will do a freshwater dip to inspect for anything coming off the fish, if I don't see anything then they go in the tank a week later. I got 20 something fish from a tank breakdown and they were a nightmare to QT, I have four 40g tanks on cinder blocks in my garage for two weeks. Out of these fish, I've lost one Chromis, a 5 year old mandarin, an engineer goby (that had a damaged eye and trouble finding food) and two wrasses jumped out.
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  18. GabeB

    GabeB Supporting Member

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  19. rygh

    rygh BOD

    love the detailed write up!!
    ofzakaria likes this.
  20. ofzakaria

    ofzakaria Supporting Member

    Interesting. I actually think with me fish get sick and recover rather than not get sick...but see what you read will dive in to it tonight. Thanks for sharing

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