Water Change Question

Discussion in 'Equipment' started by Jeff Rehling, Oct 4, 2016.

  1. Jeff Rehling

    Jeff Rehling Supporting Member

    If your ammonia and nitrate levels are perfect...when do you do a water change?

  2. Flagg37

    Flagg37 Officer at large

    Are you talking about cycling your tank or after it's already been cycled?
  3. Jeff Rehling

    Jeff Rehling Supporting Member

    it's up and running. 7 fish, snails and two hermits
  4. I do a water change every week regardless. There's a lot of other reasons to do a water change othr than just reducing nitrate and ammonia. Those include raising Calcium, mag, Alk, trace elements, etc. It also gives you the opportunity to remove organics.
  5. Jeff Rehling

    Jeff Rehling Supporting Member

    ok. that's good advice. i thought it was only for ammonia. I have a 75. I reckon 10 gallons per change is adequate?
  6. Everyone develops a different system that works best. I do 25 gallons a week in my 120. I know someone that does three gallons a day in his 55 gallon.
  7. Vhuang168

    Vhuang168 Supporting Member

    Did you quarantine the fish or teat them prophylacticly for disease or parasite before adding them to the tank?

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  8. Jeff Rehling

    Jeff Rehling Supporting Member

    I did not
  9. Vhuang168

    Vhuang168 Supporting Member

    Then I hope you are a lucky person. You are essentially playing Russian roulette with all the fish in your tank every time you add a new one. All it takes is 1 sick fish with velvet or uronema and you can kiss all/most of your fish goodbye.

    Velvet kills fast, usually in a few days after symptoms appear.

    Uronema is hard to treat when symptoms appear.

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  10. Jeff Rehling

    Jeff Rehling Supporting Member

    I don't have a QT...what would the treatment process look like before adding a new fish?

  11. Vhuang168

    Vhuang168 Supporting Member

    You can do 'Tank Transfer Method' with 5g buckets. You would need at the minimum 2 buckets n 2 heaters. Get disposable air stones so you can just throw them away instead of having to sanitize them.

    When you buy the fish, match salinity to the water it is in. Before placing in 1st bucket, do a formalin dip. Then into 1st bucket. Bucket should have a heater n an air stone with pump.

    Before 72hrs is up, transfer to 2nd bucket. Also with heater n air stone n pump. You dose Parizipro

    Sanitize the 1st bucket n heater with mild bleach solution then air dry for at least 24hrs.

    Before next 72 hrs is up, transfer to back into 1st bucket. 2nd dose of parizipro in this bucket.

    Before 72 hrs, transfer to bk to 2nd bucket after it has been sanitized and air dried.

    You can do a 5th transfer if you'd like, esp if any of the transfer were short.

    You should research TTM. There are a few caveats.

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  12. I'm curious how many bar members use which technique. TTM, simple QT tank or nothing at all.
  13. Flagg37

    Flagg37 Officer at large

    I know I've seen other threads on it. Everyone seems to vary the process slightly.
  14. Coral reefer

    Coral reefer President

    You have big problems if there is ammonia in an established tank.
    Water changes to reduce nitrates and phosphates. As well as replenish alk ca mg and trace elements.

    10 gal how often? That's not a very big change. If you are starting with good conditions and stay on it every week then probably ok

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