xinu's 375g tank

Discussion in 'Tank Journals' started by xinumaster, Nov 21, 2007.

  1. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    [quote author=xinumaster link=topic=2609.msg39333#msg39333 date=1207009967]
    Sulfur will lower the pH. So, water coming out of the effluent will have a pH of 6.5 or lower. You can hook up another chamber full of aragonite media to bring up the pH and at the same time increase ur calcium level.
    [/quote]
    Do you need to do anything to the water before it goes in? Or does the sulfur simply lower the pH? Because if memory serves this is around the pH you need for a calcium reactor to dissolve the media isn't it? Unless I'm missing something here seems like you could rig the effluent to go straight to a calcium reactor and not have to use CO2... of course this is assuming that flow rates would be the same.


    Edit: Nevermind, just saw an article that shows there'd not be much production of calcium.
     
  2. Paradox

    Paradox Guest

    http://www.njreefers.org/joomla/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=4537.15

    is a good info thread on denitrators..
     
  3. nash

    nash Guest

    [quote author=Paradox link=topic=2609.msg39351#msg39351 date=1207021693]
    http://www.njreefers.org/joomla/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=4537.15

    is a good info thread on denitrators..

    [/quote]
    "If at any time you get a "rotten egg" type smell you should stop the reactor, empty it and start over. This is a bad situation and you could poison your tank. This can happen normally from neglect in setup and the drip rate wasn't adjusted correctly and is to slow for the amount of bacteria that has built up inside the reactor."
    This happen over and over for me.But I'm lazy ::)
     
  4. xinumaster

    xinumaster Guest

    You don't really have to empty the reactor. Just flush the water out with new tank water.

    Yup, if the drip is too slow you can end up with too much bacteria and not enough food for them to eat and so some of the bateria dies which then cause that "rotten egg" smell. You'll need to increase the effluent drip once you start smelling something.
     
  5. sfsuphysics

    sfsuphysics Supporting Member

    Hmmm if you get rotten egg smell that means sulfur is working it's way out, that can't be good for a tank.

    Is there any issue with dripping it too quickly?
     
  6. Paradox

    Paradox Guest

    I think dripping to quickly raises O2 levels in the reactor which is bad also. This was one reason in which the guy in the previous link I posted uses an ORP meeter. Hes able to keep the reactor in its 'sweet' spot by watching the meeter instead of testing effluents all the time and smelling for sulfur.
     
  7. xinumaster

    xinumaster Guest

    You are right, Daniel. If you like to increase the drip you need to do it slowly and in several stages so that you don't raise the O2 in the chamber.
     
  8. saltwatersig

    saltwatersig Volunteer

    hi perry, i was thinking of adding a sd to my system but i also am using a refugium with cheato. do you think i would end up having the cheato die off if nitrates get zero'd out in the tank (thinking cheato feeds on nitrates).

    thanks in advance

    sergio
     
  9. Gomer

    Gomer Honorary Member

    I doubt you would have chaeto die off, but it's growth will likely be quite slow. Keep the chaeto lighting on the lower side and should be ok.
     
  10. xinumaster

    xinumaster Guest

    I got chaeto, mangrove and calupera in my sump and they are all doing fine. The chaeto growth is slow though, but I like it that way so I don't have to keep on triming my chaeto.
     
  11. saltwatersig

    saltwatersig Volunteer

    ok ....thanks to all for your input.
     
  12. xinumaster

    xinumaster Guest

    After the meeting last Sat I went to Atlantis and found Roy there too. He shown me a nice frag that interest him ... luckily I got him convinced to split it with me ;)

    Hi Roy, do you remember the name of this coral?

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Radiolunatic

    Radiolunatic Guest

    Hi Perry,

    Ming was not 100% sure, but he almost sure that it is frag farmer red stag. I have to check again on fragfarmer web, but in that case it might be Red Robin. However, it does not look like it. In my opinion, it is a really nice piece. red polyp on a green base. Ming just about to put it online.
     
  14. Paradox

    Paradox Guest

    Looks like a frag I got

    ATL Multicolor
    Tabling Hyacinthus frags

    The picture on atlantis site for this is deceiving because it has a lot of white in it. The colony at his store shows mostly red but with green base.
     
  15. xinumaster

    xinumaster Guest

    H Roy -- do you have the reeffarmers link for this stag?

    Hi Daniel -- Can you post picture of the frag you got?
     
  16. Radiolunatic

    Radiolunatic Guest

    Hi Perry,
    Ming said Fragfarmer, not Reeffarmers.
    Here is Red Robin, but as I said, I do not think this is it. It is still a mystery until Ming remember:
    http://www.fragfarmer.com/Red-Robin-Staghorn-p-172.html
     
  17. xinumaster

    xinumaster Guest

    Opss. I didn't know there is fragfarmer. ;D
     
  18. Radiolunatic

    Radiolunatic Guest

    Well, Erick/FF is in LA area too. He originate several LE for Steve Tyree/Reeffarmers. On the top of my head: 20K Lokani, Psychadelic Chalice and Orange lepastrea thing (forgot the exotic name).
     
  19. Thales

    Thales Past President

    Perry,

    How did you dial in your SD reactor?
     
  20. xinumaster

    xinumaster Guest

    Here is how I dialed mine:
    I start with 1 to 2 drips a second for one week.
    Then I measure N03 on the effl after one week.
    Increase drip if N03 = 0.
    Check NO3 on effl and tank on the second week.
    Compare N03 on effl and tank just to give you an idea how long it will take reactor to process N03 in your tank.
    Increase drip again if effl N03 still 0.
    repeat until both effl and tank NO3 reading is close to each other.
     

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