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Drill a glass tank without fully emptying it? -- The conclusion

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bondolo
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Poll Description:: 

Early next week I plan to move my 55G corner tank about 8" across my office. I've read a couple of postings about short distance moves like this and believe it should be reasonably easy. The suggestions I have read says that with a solid stand it's not necessary to remove everything from the tank, just the livestock and the water. It's been claimed that it's OK to leave the sand and some of the baserock in place. The tank move will be done with a heavy duty furniture dolly. The only lifting, about 300 pounds, will be to sliding the dolly under the stand and then back out after it rolls 8 feet. With room for 3 lifters it should be manageable.

I have added "Finished" pictures added to the end of the thread

One posting suggested covering the remaining rock and sand with plastic wrap and/or bubble wrap during the actual move.

This bit got me thinking, If the sand is going to be covered, perhaps I can drill the tank while moving it. Drain the tank, Cover up the sand with plastic film, move tank to the middle of the room, drill 3 holes (1.5" overflow and two 3/4" returns), move tank to final location, remove plastic wrap, fill with water and critters and enjoy!

Is this a reasonable plan? I understand and agree that it would be better to do this with an empty tank. Moving out the sand and fully drying the tank seems like a lot of extra work and, because I suspect there's a fair bit of sulphur compounds in my sand, I don't think it would be good for the fish or corals to go right back in after replacing the sand. Waiting 3-4 days (maybe more?) in a rubbermaid wouldn't be terribly healthy either.

Suggestions, recommendations, cautionary tales?

Go for it!
25% (1 vote)
OK, I'm sure will be fine. Really.
0% (0 votes)
Hard to know unless you try.
0% (0 votes)
Sounds risky, probably not a good idea.
50% (2 votes)
Madness I tell you, madness!
25% (1 vote)
Total votes: 4

Comments

euod
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" perhaps I can drill the tank while moving it. "

I'll be by to see that.

LeviT
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The big problem with drilling like that is that you would have to do it dry since you can't lay the tank face down with stuff in it. Drilling it dry will make a lot of dust and heat if you go to fast which could increase the chance of a crack. The move part even with the sand and rock in place doesn't sound like a big deal as long as you don't disturb your DSB. Hope that helps.

Levi
Pittsburg, CA

Coral reefer
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I stick with only one hole for a drain and do returns over the sides. Moving it like that should be fine tho

Mike

tuberider
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You can drill a vertical surface on an empty tank using a spray bottle with some water (you need two people), however doing it with water in the tank is a no no, the sheer force on the tank is to strong and it will break.

I'm smarter than some things, but maybe not this thing here because it has a battery" -Ricky

GreshamH
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tuberider wrote:
You can drill a vertical surface on an empty tank using a spray bottle with some water (you need two people), however doing it with water in the tank is a no no, the sheer force on the tank is to strong and it will break.

And given the bottom is most likely tempered (mine was) you can only drill out the rear vertical panels.

Also be aware of how the stand is built prior to putting an undersized dolly under it. They are built not to be moved like that so take caution.

bondolo
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GreshamH wrote:

And given the bottom is most likely tempered (mine was) you can only drill out the rear vertical panels.

Yep, I checked this with the AGA. The bottom panel is tempered. The old style stand also is solid so can't easily accommodate drains unless heavily reworked.

GreshamH wrote:

Also be aware of how the stand is built prior to putting an undersized dolly under it. They are built not to be moved like that so take caution.

A great deal of caution. Smile

bondolo
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Well, I'm going to go for it! I'll be drilling/moving the tank in the morning on Saturday the 7th. I'm going to do it early enough that if I do crack the glass I can get a replacement panel (pre-drilled) before 2pm. The local glass shop says that they can create a replacement panel cut and drilled in about 90 minutes if needed.

If you're the kind of person that enjoys lifting heavy things or watching potential disasters I could certainly use a few extra hands. PM for address. Food and celebratory beverages provided.

GreshamH
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Most glass tanks "cure" for a couple days up to a month prior to putting water in them. How fast *if* you break it would you have to pout the livestock back in?

bondolo
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Hmmm, I was unaware you had to wait more than a few hours for the silicone to cure. Undoubtedly you are correct. Some reading shows that aquarium silicone which uses acetic acid to cure requires 48-72 hours before adding water depending on how thick of a bead is used. Yikes! This is a lot longer than I thought by an order of magnitude. I'm used to bathroom silicone which hardens in an hour and is cured for water after 4 hours and fully cured after 24.

Between my Frag tank, QT tank, rubbermaids bins I could certainly last a couple of days or a week if need be. I would probably want to take longer once the water was back in (along with several 50% water changes) to make sure the water params were good after completely removing and restoring the DSB.

Thanks for the heads up. I'll assume that if things go sideways with the drilling that it will be up to a week to restore the tank.

Elite
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Goodluck. You might want to read up more about silicone before going with the bathroom silicone. I think it has mildew resitance and that is not good for your tank. Always test the tank atleast couple days before bringing it back inside.

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