We would like to thank all of our sponsors, including:

Michael's Referbish

43 replies [Last post]
Not_Now_John
Not_Now_John's picture
User offline. Last seen 6 days 9 hours ago. Offline
Joined: Jan 16 2012
Posts: 242
Groups:
2012 BAR Member

OK bare with me while I get you all up to date.

There is no easy way to say this, so I'll just spit it out, my tank kinda sucks. There that feels better. So it is time to do something about it!

Lets start with the nitty gritty. Be gentle with me.

The Tank: just over 6 years old
135gallon all glass aquarium (or should I just call it aqueon now? either way, not made anymore) predrilled with 2 overflows 72x24x18 and large glass centerbrace
megaflow model 4 wet/dry sump (bio balls removed as of 5min ago)
Eheim model 1262return pump with single outlet
Artica Titanium Chiller 1/10hp on Eheim model 1260
3x Maxijet 1200 hooked up to wavemaker powerstrip
6x24in compact fluorescent and a single 150w MH in center
Red Sea C-Skim 1800 skimmer
250w heater
run passive carbon
dose Randy's 2 part calcium

Livestock:
1 sailfin tang (looks like something between "regular" and redsea)
1 Blackspot/swallowtail angelfish (was female, now male, still pretty)
1 maroon clown
1 bi-color blenney
1 sps of some kind (green slime?)
1 hammer coral
several hairy mushrooms
4 ricordias
a few leathers
2 pagodia corals
some zoas, maybe pallys
4 anemones
not much of a pod population to speak of
2 scarlet cleaners
10ish pepperments
4 cucumbers, 2 serpents and and an array of snails/hermits

What I want to change:
new lights (in progress, pile of CREEs from rapidled just waiting to be soldered)
new sump (probably 55g glass, maybe diy acrylic if I'm feeling brave)
refugium in said sump
Split return line at least once, maybe into 4
better circulation... probably an MP40 to start
GFO reactor and Carbon reactor
some type of carbon dosing (probably biopellets, may start with vodka)
switch to Kalk autotop off (just built auto top off switch, just need to buy Kalk and container!)

And there we have it, a lot of work to come. I can't do all of this at once due to both time and monitary constraints. Now the question is, what order do I prioritize these upgrades? The LEDs have been purchased so they will obviously be first, but I plan on spending the next 6months or so getting this baby looking beautiful like I know it can!

-Michael - Hayward

"Say not 'this is truth,' but 'so it seems to be to me as I now see the things I think I see.'" - Doorway inscription at German Naval Officer's School, in Kiel

Not_Now_John
Not_Now_John's picture
User offline. Last seen 6 days 9 hours ago. Offline
Joined: Jan 16 2012
Posts: 242
Groups:
2012 BAR Member

UPDATE: Due to the rather constricted space in my stand and a rather large skimmer, I am going to use 1 tank for sump, 1 for refugium.

Here's my ideas for baffle placement, feel free to comment. Right tank is a 29g, left is a 20long... thank you petco 1dollar sale. Would have liked a 40B but I only have 16" of width to work with.

-Michael - Hayward

"Say not 'this is truth,' but 'so it seems to be to me as I now see the things I think I see.'" - Doorway inscription at German Naval Officer's School, in Kiel

Not_Now_John
Not_Now_John's picture
User offline. Last seen 6 days 9 hours ago. Offline
Joined: Jan 16 2012
Posts: 242
Groups:
2012 BAR Member

Some ideas on plumbing. I am actually going to switch the durso drain to the same side as the siphon, but I haven't drawn a new picture yet. May also go with a behind and over return so I can keep 1"for all of it, but we'll see.

Currently using an Eheim 1262, kinda small but it's what I have. I would rather not buy a new one, but if I do, any recommendation on a new pump? I do have an Eheim 1260 running around form an old tank, besides heat, are there any disadvantages to duel return pumps? I could plump both up and over the back with the 1262 split to the refugium. Or would I be better served by a mag 12 or even 18? Not sure I have the space for an external pump, but I bet I could figure something out.

First pic shows current plumbing, return and drain are split to ease drawing.

-Michael - Hayward

"Say not 'this is truth,' but 'so it seems to be to me as I now see the things I think I see.'" - Doorway inscription at German Naval Officer's School, in Kiel

Not_Now_John
Not_Now_John's picture
User offline. Last seen 6 days 9 hours ago. Offline
Joined: Jan 16 2012
Posts: 242
Groups:
2012 BAR Member

Should be getting the glass for baffles tomorrow or early next week. Also going to spend Saturday working on those CREEs burning a hole in the garage. No fancy colored LEDs for me, just a 50/50mix of dimmable cool whites and royal blues.

-Michael - Hayward

"Say not 'this is truth,' but 'so it seems to be to me as I now see the things I think I see.'" - Doorway inscription at German Naval Officer's School, in Kiel

bondolo
bondolo's picture
User offline. Last seen 44 min 29 sec ago. Offline
Joined: Dec 23 2010
Posts: 439
Groups:
Volunteer, 2012 BAR Member

Not_Now_John wrote:
No fancy colored LEDs for me, just a 50/50mix of dimmable cool whites and royal blues.

You can always swap in a single standard blue, red or purple later. Even a single element is enough to accentuate the colours.

Not_Now_John
Not_Now_John's picture
User offline. Last seen 6 days 9 hours ago. Offline
Joined: Jan 16 2012
Posts: 242
Groups:
2012 BAR Member

Luckily we are going to use screws instead of cement, so if the color doesn't look great it should be relatively simple to swap them out for different colors. It is my understanding that the single wavelength LEDs can be quite noticable in small numbers. Are you using LEDs bondolo?

-Michael - Hayward

"Say not 'this is truth,' but 'so it seems to be to me as I now see the things I think I see.'" - Doorway inscription at German Naval Officer's School, in Kiel

bondolo
bondolo's picture
User offline. Last seen 44 min 29 sec ago. Offline
Joined: Dec 23 2010
Posts: 439
Groups:
Volunteer, 2012 BAR Member

Not_Now_John wrote:
It is my understanding that the single wavelength LEDs can be quite noticable in small numbers. Are you using LEDs bondolo?

No LEDs here yet. Still researching, planning and waiting. I will likely do more 14K ocean blue rather than all royal blue. My current T5 fixture has Royal blue moon lights and I find them too blue.

My next purchases are likely a 24x48x16 frag tank (which would require me to get new lighting) or a couple of sea swirls (looking for used if anyone has any laying around).

Mike

Not_Now_John
Not_Now_John's picture
User offline. Last seen 6 days 9 hours ago. Offline
Joined: Jan 16 2012
Posts: 242
Groups:
2012 BAR Member

I might die from shock going from CFs to LEDs, nevermind the tank. Frag tank is a back burner thing... no where to put it. In retrospect no frags to put in it anyway... so frags, then frag tank!

-Michael - Hayward

"Say not 'this is truth,' but 'so it seems to be to me as I now see the things I think I see.'" - Doorway inscription at German Naval Officer's School, in Kiel

rygh
rygh's picture
User offline. Last seen 22 hours 55 min ago. Offline
Joined: Jun 29 2010
Posts: 1267
Groups:
2012 BAR Member

There might be an issue with the plumbing.
You have two separate drains. Keeping the flow balanced (or even constant) between the two
will likely prove difficult as you get growth and tank changes.
I would suggest an "X" if you really want that, where the two drains come together, then apart again,
and have a small valve on the skimmer side into the sump.
(Hope that makes sense)

LEDs can really hit or miss based on personal preference.
The lack of a broad spectrum can really bug you, or you may not notice at all.
I have DIY ones, with extra added colors, and am sortof happy, but I still want more.

Is there a check valve or siphon break on that return?

-Mark
Who says duct tape cannot be used as a frag mount?

Not_Now_John
Not_Now_John's picture
User offline. Last seen 6 days 9 hours ago. Offline
Joined: Jan 16 2012
Posts: 242
Groups:
2012 BAR Member

Hey rygh, I read about 90% of your led thread, interesting read, but seems to be one of those things you have to see for yourself.

I had already started a thread on rc, but wanted to get involved here too, guess I need to update.

I am basicly trying to run a beananimal system, but without the coast to coast . I now realise I need both the durso and siphon in the same overflow. However this would leave the other overflow with dead space as well as a general lack of surface skimming.
I am toying with the idea of using a durso mounted a hair below the display water level so it will at least skim the surface a bit. Not sure how that will work though.

I would then use the other 3/4" for the emergency (or the other way around) and run the return behind and over.

I am kind of adverse to check valves, but I will use a siphon break hole. Will make sure to plumb so sump can handle a siphon drain hole failure.

Not sure what you mean by the x though.

-Michael - Hayward

"Say not 'this is truth,' but 'so it seems to be to me as I now see the things I think I see.'" - Doorway inscription at German Naval Officer's School, in Kiel

rygh
rygh's picture
User offline. Last seen 22 hours 55 min ago. Offline
Joined: Jun 29 2010
Posts: 1267
Groups:
2012 BAR Member

The concept of the X was to bring the overflow plumbing together, to one central point, then split them
apart again to the left/right side of the sump.
That way, even if the flow through the overflow varies from side to side, it does
not change the flow through the refugium versus skimmer section drastically.
I am running two overflows now, and they are not even close to the same amount of flow.

One of my favorite RC LED threads is "LED Color Aesthetics: The Emperor’s got no clothes. Or does he?"
Really seems to hit on the color issues. Plus shows how different peoples opinions are.

-Mark
Who says duct tape cannot be used as a frag mount?