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I bought 2 large colonies of some beautiful yumas last month and soon after I got them, one of the colonies started to barf their guts out and come loose. Those were my favorite because they were pink and purple. The other colony was doing fine, but then 3 of the heads had some sort of fleshy mucus that was surrounding them, so I didn't want it to pollute my water so I sucked the mucus stuff out with a turkey baster and now those 3 heads are really tiny and don't open. The other side of the colony opens and seems fine. All my other mushroom corals (I have a lot) seem fine. What could have caused this?
pH: 8.0-8.4 (normally 8.1-8.3)
Salinity: 1.023-1.026 (normally 1.024-1.025)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrate: 0
Nitrite: 0
Phosphate: 0
Yumas are also quite iffy; they're not like floridas, which are much easier to keep.
If you're coming to the BOD meeting, bring a water sample and we can test it.
I'm going to be coming to pick up a frag or two so I'll bring a water sample. I don't think my test kits are 100% accurate because they are really cheap. They are all the API ones. 
pH: 8.0-8.4 (normally 8.1-8.3)
Salinity: 1.023-1.026 (normally 1.024-1.025)
FYI these are LARGE swings, either a .4 PH change or a .003 salinity change could do some major damage in your tank.
pH: 8.0-8.4 (normally 8.1-8.3)
Salinity: 1.023-1.026 (normally 1.024-1.025)
FYI these are LARGE swings, either a .4 PH change or a .003 salinity change could do some major damage in your tank.
They only swing when I do a water change and that is normally just .001 for salinity and .1-.2 for pH. It's not like they swing like that day to day. I'm saying that they are normally within those standards and they only swing when I do something like a 20% water change.
the salinity swing is the troubling one. THe pH isn't. You can get bit swings over a 24hr period. Do you have an auto top off or do you manually add RO/DI water when the tank evaporates?
-Tony
"Are you out of your mind Tony, you know better than to mix Blood Sport and reefing."-Tuberider
"I need a Vanilla Ice to English translator 
"-Gresham
I manually add RO/DI
one of the best things I have invested in, has been an ATO. They both save time, and help keep my salinity very stable. With coral health and stability being related, it was a double win. May want to consider getting one 
-Tony
"Are you out of your mind Tony, you know better than to mix Blood Sport and reefing."-Tuberider
"I need a Vanilla Ice to English translator "-Gresham
pH: 8.0-8.4 (normally 8.1-8.3)
Salinity: 1.023-1.026 (normally 1.024-1.025)
FYI these are LARGE swings, either a .4 PH change or a .003 salinity change could do some major damage in your tank.
They only swing when I do a water change and that is normally just .001 for salinity and .1-.2 for pH. It's not like they swing like that day to day. I'm saying that they are normally within those standards and they only swing when I do something like a 20% water change.
you should use water which is almost the exact same salinity as the water in your tank, my salinty never changes from 1.025, mainly cuz I do daily top off that compensates for evap (which removes water and not salt) and weekly 20% water changes, and I mix my water to 1.025. which then matches my tank water
Easy DIY auto top off with a
battery powered pump
float switch
random jug
air hose tube.
I'll try to find the thread, or I'll make one because I'm getting ready to make it with these switches Jesse gave me.
Something is stressing them out.
If you're coming to the BOD meeting, bring a water sample and we can test it.
Bay Area Reefers Geekifying Everything - Gomer
Yes, you are doing something stupid and people here are trying to help you. - also Gomer