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Bristle worm trap

JVU

President
BOD
I have too many bristle worms. I didn’t mind them initially but they’ve gotten out of control, in every bit of sand and every rock crevice. They aren’t harming any of my tank inhabitants as far as I can tell, but I do get a couple painful stings that last a few days every time I work in my tank touching rockwork, fragging coral, cleaning sand, etc, which is getting old. Plus they just seem out of balance.

I’m well aware that they are considered a normal part of the clean up crew, and I’m also well aware that the general thought is that you don’t get plague proportions like I have unless you overfeed. I don’t think I overfeed, but I’m not stingy either. I don’t have any issues with nitrate/phosphate/algae.

So anyway I’ve been looking for ways to thin their numbers, including traps. All of the commercial traps for sale get basically bad reviews. I did find someone in UK 3-D printing traps (TT Gadgets) that gets good reviews, but he told me he is closing up shop. I’ve seen the common DIY traps out there, but none of them really piqued my interest.

If I want to outsmart these polychaete worms, I figure I have to think like a worm. Starting from apparent bristle worm preferences, I’ve noticed the following:
1. They mostly like dark places, and if they come out into the light they go back into the dark quickly.
2. They like rock crevices, being under the sand, and generally don’t want to stay exposed in the open.
3. They are attracted by smell to food, especially meaty food.
4. They are very flexible and can squeeze through very tight spaces.
5. They are fast when they want to be, so literally catching them before they can bolt into a crevice isn’t very effective.

Most of the commercial traps are made of a clear or translucent plastic material that lets light in and also doesn’t have any crevices inside, violating #1 and #2. So it’s no wonder that they just crawl out again after they explore/feed. Also the commercial traps have the holes arranged in a way that gives you the feeling that the worms can enter but not exit, like traps for larger animals have. These worms are so flexible I just don’t think this is legit. Rather than trying (futilely) to make it so that they can’t leave, I’d rather make it so that they don’t want to leave.

The 3-D printed trap mentioned above has the advantage of being opaque material so its dark inside, and also they load the trap with rocks, which gives the feeling of lots of crevices. My guess is that it is these 2 factors that make it more effective than the other options out there.

So with all this in mind, I made my own DIY trap. I used:
- An empty opaque plastic fish food container with lid
- Reef-safe small rocks (I used extra-coarse ARM calcium reactor media) to give the feeling of rock crevices inside
- A small scalpel for making entry holes
- An old intake strainer from a dead power head to hold food
- Some frag putty (I used Tunze CoralGum) to attach the strainer to the lid, can be removed to place food

I made the entry holes around the base of the container, near sand level and far from the food, with the flaps pointing inwards in case that matters to make it easier to get in vs out. The holes don’t have to be very large, the worms are quite capable of squeezing through.

So far the trap has been quite successful, initially trapping 30+ worms when used at night, placed in the sand next to rockscape. Surprisingly, I’m able to trap about the same number when I leave the trap out during the daylight hours even though I don’t see the worms. I’ve been using frozen mysis and some fish pellets, but probably anything meaty would work.

38A168D5-4A97-471D-BE02-6A550D8337E8.jpeg


90D334D1-EF83-45F5-AADD-946E01972AC0.jpeg


The hardened putty is superglued to the top lid, allows me to remove the cage to fill with food.
22ABAD39-6850-46EB-B809-E32027355E78.jpeg


Filled with rocks and ready to place
139E1B57-F2B8-406F-928E-D7519B6D02A3.jpeg


Night catch:
E3851A35-0B0D-4F48-AC7B-C2A0C35DF263.jpeg


Day catch:
083CAD7B-3715-4FC9-A011-68E712F3FA35.jpeg
 
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Nice write-up! In general, I consider bristle worms good detritivores, but like you said, too many is not good and I have been horrified at videos of a massive one in a marine lab and a mass of large ones clogging a tank drain. I have never noticed them in any of our tanks, but I think some students would love to construct your trap so we can find out. Thanks for the details!
Also, just before @Coral reefer posted his response I learned arrow crabs are bristleworm predators. If we have bristleworms, maybe I will get an arrow crab from @Apon group buy. (Now I have to look up what eats arrow crabs.)
 
This, or can you add brittle stars? They like the same things and multiply quickly. Won’t solve the problem but will provide some competition.
I have even more micro brittle stars. They are fine and don’t sting me, so part of my plan is to reduce the bristle worms so the stars can take their place in that niche to some extent.
 
Have you tried arrow crab?
Yes, I’ve had them periodically over the years. They are cool but kind of aggressive. The last couple I tried in this tank didn’t survive for some reason, not sure if luck or something else. I’m open to trying them again. I also have a golden coral banded shrimp, which I got because they supposedly also eat the worms. He’s doing well and probably eating them, but they outnumber him by so much it is just one tiny factor in controlling them.
 
Pretty neat! I used to hunt them with long tweezers, only the big ones. Healthy population of bristle worms means they are taking care of the leftovers but they do become an eyesore.
 
I made a trap once by cutting off the end of a small soda bottle and inverting it back in, Similar idea to most traps easy to get in, pain in the butt to get out. I'm not a fan of bristleworms in the reef, stick them in the sump/refugium sure, let them eat all the detritus that settles there, I'll deal with the stuff in the tank.
 
my wrasses just eats them up. And will eat them as food if I throw worms into my display tank.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
That was a great diy project. If you’re getting 30 every 12 hours (if I understand your results correctly) how effective is it long term? Can you put 10 or more traps throughout your tank to get rid of them quicker?
 
I don’t have any wrasses right now because I have a rimless and lidless tank, so maybe that’s part of my problem. It’s also a form of nutrient export, at least in theory.

Surely there are multiple ways to approach the issue, but it’s nice for people to have options, and as I understand it the bristle worm traps previously reported and for sale don’t work as well.
 
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That was a great diy project. If you’re getting 30 every 12 hours (if I understand your results correctly) how effective is it long term? Can you put 10 or more traps throughout your tank to get rid of them quicker?
I just started with this trap design recently so I don’t have long term data, but it has been reliably working so far. I do think multiple traps would be more effective but I haven’t tried since I’m still in the experimenting phase to see what works well.
 
I have too many bristle worms. I didn’t mind them initially but they’ve gotten out of control, in every bit of sand and every rock crevice. They aren’t harming any of my tank inhabitants as far as I can tell, but I do get a couple painful stings that last a few days every time I work in my tank touching rockwork, fragging coral, cleaning sand, etc, which is getting old. Plus they just seem out of balance.

I’m well aware that they are considered a normal part of the clean up crew, and I’m also well aware that the general thought is that you don’t get plague proportions like I have unless you overfeed. I don’t think I overfeed, but I’m not stingy either. I don’t have any issues with nitrate/phosphate/algae.

So anyway I’ve been looking for ways to thin their numbers, including traps. All of the commercial traps for sale get basically bad reviews. I did find someone in UK 3-D printing traps (TT Gadgets) that gets good reviews, but he told me he is closing up shop. I’ve seen the common DIY traps out there, but none of them really peaked my interest.

If I want to outsmart these polychaete worms, I figure I have to think like a worm. Starting from apparent bristle worm preferences, I’ve noticed the following:
1. They mostly like dark places, and if they come out into the light they go back into the dark quickly.
2. They like rock crevices, being under the sand, and generally don’t want to stay exposed in the open.
3. They are attracted by smell to food, especially meaty food.
4. They are very flexible and can squeeze through very tight spaces.
5. They are fast when they want to be, so literally catching them before they can bolt into a crevice isn’t very effective.

Most of the commercial traps are made of a clear or translucent plastic material that lets light in and also doesn’t have any crevices inside, violating #1 and #2. So it’s no wonder that they just crawl out again after they explore/feed. Also the commercial traps have the holes arranged in a way that gives you the feeling that the worms can enter but not exit, like traps for larger animals have. These worms are so flexible I just don’t think this is legit. Rather than trying (futilely) to make it so that they can’t leave, I’d rather make it so that they don’t want to leave.

The 3-D printed trap mentioned above has the advantage of being opaque material so its dark inside, and also they load the trap with rocks, which gives the feeling of lots of crevices. My guess is that it is these 2 factors that make it more effective than the other options out there.

So with all this in mind, I made my own DIY trap. I used:
- An empty opaque plastic fish food container with lid
- Reef-safe small rocks (I used extra-coarse ARM calcium reactor media) to give the feeling of rock crevices inside
- A small scalpel for making entry holes
- An old intake strainer from a dead power head to hold food
- Some frag putty (I used Tunze CoralGum) to attach the strainer to the lid, can be removed to place food

I made the entry holes around the base of the container, near sand level and far from the food, with the flaps pointing inwards in case that matters to make it easier to get in vs out. The holes don’t have to be very large, the worms are quite capable of squeezing through.

So far the trap has been quite successful, initially trapping 30+ worms when used at night, placed in the sand next to rockscape. Surprisingly, I’m able to trap about the same number when I leave the trap out during the daylight hours even though I don’t see the worms. I’ve been using frozen mysis and some fish pellets, but probably anything meaty would work.

View attachment 12567

View attachment 12568

The hardened putty is superglued to the top lid, allows me to remove the cage to fill with food.
View attachment 12569

Filled with rocks and ready to place
View attachment 12572

Night catch:
View attachment 12570

Day catch:
View attachment 12571
Hey, man, you should know, that not every bristle worm is the bad one. There is the kind of the bristle worm - fire worm, that has a lot of benefits. I have known it reading the article at http://arcreef.com. So, I think, that you shouldn't catch them from the aquarium, before reading this article and comparing them( they are the same on the surface, but when you look close, you can see the difference between them). Think I was helpful for you.
 
Hey, man, you should know, that not every bristle worm is the bad one. There is the kind of the bristle worm - fire worm, that has a lot of benefits. I have known it reading the article at http://arcreef.com. So, I think, that you shouldn't catch them from the aquarium, before reading this article and comparing them( they are the same on the surface, but when you look close, you can see the difference between them). Think I was helpful for you.
Thanks. I’m well aware there are different types of bristle worms, and that they have benefits as part of the clean up crew when present in reasonable numbers (as I said above). I’m aware of that website you referenced as well as a lot of other more detailed info about them. Also as I said, it isn’t that I’m trying to eliminate them, but just to reduce their number since they are causing problems for me. So the point of this thread is to tell people about an effective and easy trap (which there are few to none otherwise out there), not to rehash the pros vs cons of bristleworms, which is already an endless discussion in online forums.

By the way, you have it completely backwards about the fire worms being a beneficial type of bristle worm (they are a nasty pest), as stated in the second sentence of the article you referenced. I don’t have fire worms, I have regular/common bristle worms.
 
Dang, that is a lot of worms!

Most of us think of drills for making holes, not small scalpels....
Doctors.... :)
But actually those holes look more effective. Much more one-way.
 
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