Neptune Aquatics

Captain’s Quarters (16G, 16G, 50G)

DaddyHook

Supporting Member

Initial Build

3F851635-98BC-4FA6-9347-DE2B1208EC6B.jpeg

FCDBFDBE-40F4-4751-A5F7-30D59C8B9D2B.jpeg

8E735EE8-822B-41B9-AB74-45C98002F624.jpeg

SYSTEMS - STOCK LISTS​

  • 1 ~ Dagabah 09~01~20
    • 16G Biocube
    • Species System - Florida, Ricordea
    • Mated Pair of Snowflake Clowns
    • Various CUC

97E9C8D9-10BB-4DE1-B86E-BD0FFD9EE499.jpeg



  • 2 ~ Pirates Bay 11~01~20
    • 5G Aquatop Pieces Bullet Peninsula
    • Mixed Reef
    • Bonded Pair Picasso Clowns
    • Neon Dottyback
    • 1 Blood Red Shrimp
    • Various CUC
51E653D3-2AA2-4773-B396-8FC603C219AF.jpeg


850B0E35-062F-4634-A023-1E2191E7D811.jpeg


CA991A29-525C-4DDD-B1EF-5B8813459262.jpeg



  • 3 ~ Fantasyland 10~01~20
    • 1.7G Aqua Japan
    • Mixed Reef
    • Six Line Wrasse
    • 1 Cleaner Shrimp
    • Various CUC
5BA149BC-DE99-4E49-8325-FC8B92842B4F.jpeg



SIMPLE NANO PHILOSOPHY
  1. ATO is the number 1 piece of equipment for me.
  2. Flow comes second for me. In small tanks flow can be extremely detrimental to your livestock and oxygenation of the system. Too much and you risk tissue damage due to the confined area. Too little and it will most likely end in dead flow areas. Which contributes to nutrient build up.
  3. Lighting is third. This is extremely dependent on the build I’m trying to achieve. As well as my personal preference for system size and functionality.
  4. Use what you like. If it’s a product that seems to be made well and is functional I’ll try it. People will get caught up in today’s social media effect contributing to more hobbyists entering into the hobby and exiting within the first year due to unrealistic expectations. This is not just within the aquarium hobby. It is something I personally think is a huge negative in a lot of hobbies and in society these days. Especially if there is a financial incentive to be exploited.

ATO-FLOW-LIGHTING-HEATING-FILTRATION
  • 1 ~ Dagabah
    • XP Aqua Duetto ATO
    • Nero 3
    • Sicce 1 (Return)
    • AI Prime 16HD
    • Inkbird Controller - MarineLand 50W
    • Red Sea Max Nano Filter Sock 225 Micron (I modified the second compartment with a piece of black acrylic cut to the length and width of inside then cut a for the filter sock to sit)

  • 2 ~ Pirates Bay
    • XP Aqua Duetto ATO
    • Nero 3
    • AI Prime 16HD
    • Inkbird Controller - Cobalt Stealth 25W
    • Eshopps Nano Skimmer
    • Azoo 250 Surface Skimmer

  • 3 ~ Fantasyland
    • XP Aqua Duetto ATO
    • Hygger Mini WaveMaker
    • AI Prime 16HD
    • Inkbird Controller - Cobalt Stealth 25W
    • Azoo 250 Surface Skimmer

FEEDING REGIMENT
  • Random. But I usually feed daily there is no specific schedule I follow.
  • No pellets or flakes, only frozen. My only exception is TDO for new clowns that won’t eat but that’s not often.
    • LRS
    • Rotifers
    • Mysis
    • Oyster Feast
    • Fuel (Aquavitro)


MY HUSBANDRY

  • Daily. I’m always observing my tanks. Being a stay at home Dad at the moment is a main reason I run these systems. Besides cleaning the glass all maintenance is done on Sundays during water changes. Unless there is something catastrophic. I try not to put my hands in the tank until Sunday. I also always wear gloves and use long feeder tongs, toothbrushes and scrubbing pads to prevent the introduction of contaminants.
    • I think people have a huge misunderstanding of PPE and the proper use. It can be a huge benefit in my opinion to a successful Aquarium.

  • Weekly water changes every Sunday. No exceptions. I change between 30 - 100% from all tanks. Depending on what I’m observing from them. I let the tanks tell me what they need.
    • My mixing station consists of two 35G horizontal poly containers. I keep 35 gallons of saltwater in one and 35 gallons of RODI in the other. I try to keep enough on hand to be able to do a 100% water change to every tank if ever needed.

  • Let her ride free and true, don't over correct it’s nature after all. You should know and understand to the best of your ability how to care for what you put in your tank. When I have problems they have usually been there for a while and I’ve just neglected it early on. So rushing into fixing things usually creates more problems than remedies in my experience. I try to take my time and stoically find a solution.
 
Last edited:
Here is a look at the control board. I made the board after all the tanks were up. I couldn’t stand the rats nest that I would have to navigate through every time I needed to do something. My goal behind this board was efficient operation of all equipment. Using the Kasa power strips allows me to individually control each outlet with the touch of a button. Rather than pulling each plug out or having to shut down the entire power bar.


779995C9-B0C3-4376-B944-3DF0736BDF8A.jpeg


These are the cable grommets. Made of aluminum, the front flap flips up to pass the cables through.

3CC148FB-B07D-4DAD-A245-9711B22574F7.jpeg


Just after routing the holes and installing grommet. Getting ready for tape and paint. I used a piece of 2’ x 4’ x 1/2” birch plywood for the actual board originally it was going to be acrylic but decided on plywood because of cost.

275200F7-8790-44A0-85DD-92BD63477BC9.jpeg


Painted and mounting hardware installed. Sanded with extra fine grit paper. Primed and painted flat white.

EC4D9C94-6A53-434A-9D5B-083D1E5C5984.jpeg

14D2A208-EBDD-418B-9915-5E0EBF25C3CF.jpeg


C66D7490-6611-4366-A62C-EAA98B928448.jpeg


152643BA-3887-450F-80E2-039EB728AA4F.jpeg


I color coded the power stripes and Ink bird controllers specific to their tanks. Blue ~ Pirates Bay, Pink ~ Fantasyland, Green ~ Dagabah. The white extension cords are 1‘ with a 360 degree flat swivel plug. Each outlet is labeled. Keeps everything uniform in front. All out to tank cords are then ran through a single piece of braided wire loom to make it look like a single cable running to the tank from behind the control board.


DA827F71-70CB-48F6-B6A1-93C63366768B.jpeg


image.jpg


At the bottom of the control board are my tank data sheets where I track my tanks. They attach to the very bottom via magnets.
 

Attachments

  • 9C8144AD-F4C4-41CB-AFFF-26BEED300C8C.jpeg
    9C8144AD-F4C4-41CB-AFFF-26BEED300C8C.jpeg
    171.4 KB · Views: 114
Last edited:
This is so cool! How long did it take you to get that kind of ricordea coverage in dagobah?
I’m not sure how clear these pictures are turning out on your guys end? They look pretty bad to me once I posted them. If you look at the first pictures of the whole build and compare to the full tank shot of Dagabah. That is from March(whole build) to this past Monday(Dagabah FTS). Maybe 10 - 15% is from true pedal laceration. I’ve purchased around 75% of them. Some drop babies faster than others.
 
Proof that it’s not necessary to have a large tank to be successful.
My compliments on your ability to refrain from purchasing outside the desired original scheme.
Keep on keeping on
Do your do, it obviously works
Sometimes less really is more
Well done
Thank you! A lot of this build is about exactly that. While I love large systems my preference at this time are Nanos due to the flexibility in creativity. I feel a huge part of this hobby or want for a large demographic of hobbyists is the desire to have something different. And you cant always get that in a crate. But again that’s just my specific preference.
 
I’m not sure how clear these pictures are turning out on your guys end? They look pretty bad to me once I posted them. If you look at the first pictures of the whole build and compare to the full tank shot of Dagabah. That is from March(whole build) to this past Monday(Dagabah FTS). Maybe 10 - 15% is from true pedal laceration. I’ve purchased around 75% of them. Some drop babies faster than others.
Nice! Pictures look pretty good to me! May be worth getting an camera filter lens, to get "truer" colors and cut out blue light :)
 
Mesmerizing - the more I look, I more I see!
I really appreciate your detailed explanation. I look forward to following your new build, as well as your established systems.
 
Back
Top