Cali Kid Corals

First time apex user.

Srt4eric

Srt4eric

Vice President
BOD
BARcard
So the new build I picked up came with an apex, eb832, leak detectors and a flow meter. My question is what equipment do I want to plug into the eb832 and what equipment should I just plug into the wall?
 
pretty much up to you what you want to control - no right or wrong answer.

on my eb832, i have heater, 2x mp40wpd, return jump, fuge light, uv, fan, skimmer. the lights i put on a ups battery back up connecting to the wall. i set up my pumps based on feed cycle function. depends what i am doing, i can shut off all the pumps or just the return. lots of control and variety.
 
Anything that you want to monitor or would impact something else in case of a failure.

For example, you could monitor the return pump watts to send you an alert. You could also decide to turn off the lights when the temperature is too high.

I don't have my Radions hooked up to the EB832 - I have the two return pumps, skimmer, heater, fans, T5 (because it doesn't have its own timer), fuge ligth (to get warnings when it turns off because of heat) and UV lamp.
 
Different controller, but I have heater, skimmer, ATO, and return pump.

However I’ve recently tried the kasa smart outlets and will transition things that are time based to that, and will keep things that rely on the probe readings on the controller’s power bar.
 
max_nano said:
Different controller, but I have heater, skimmer, ATO, and return pump.

However I’ve recently tried the kasa smart outlets and will transition things that are time based to that, and will keep things that rely on the probe readings on the controller’s power bar.
Click to expand...
What controller?
 
Srt4eric said:
So the new build I picked up came with an apex, eb832, leak detectors and a flow meter. My question is what equipment do I want to plug into the eb832 and what equipment should I just plug into the wall?
Click to expand...
If you have enough outlets, plug everything in. As you run out of outlet space, decide which piece of equipment is least useful to be able to program, control, be part of various failure scenarios, and plug that into the wall (or other timer/etc). Even equipment that has it’s own controller is sometimes nice to have plugged into the Apex, if it’s the sort of thing you want to be able to turn off easily or in concert with other equipment. Or something you might forget you turned off earlier, and want to be able to turn back on remotely from work or wherever.
 
For a small tank, plug everything in.
Allows for full monitoring and control.

For a large tank:
You probably do not want lights plugged in due to current surge when they turn on.
You may have dual returns and dual heaters for redundancy, and may want one set plugged in,
and one not, in case Apex goes down.
 
I am in the same boat as you, where I just got my Apex EL around Jan, set up the Trident in Feb, had an issue so unplugged everything from the eb and back into the wall now. I am going top use it for power monitoring on my main pump, heater/fan control, and some slick way to turn the skimmer and reactor on/off quickly for my chemiclean water changes. There are a bunch of tricks for different pieces of equipment, but I am keeping it manual for a bit, and one at a time relying on the apex to see what is going on.
 
You definitely want you skimmer and return tied together and wave pumps. Will help you avoid skimmer overflowing from when your water level in sump is still getting to operating levels after return shut down and restart
 
Here's another question. My salinity keeps rising dramatically. I don't have an ato on this beast yet so I understand a slight rise over time. Within a day and a half my salinity went from 31 to a max of 48. Would calibrating my probe fix this? Should I buy a new probe?

Screenshot_20210419-132000_APEX Fusion.jpg
Screenshot_20210419-132433_APEX Fusion.jpg
 
Is the salinity probe in a spot with lots of bubbles? They get lodged in the probe and affect it.
In any case, don’t rely on the absolute number it reads. Just use it as a relative signal. Mine reads 32.7 which is not the real salinity - but when it changes, I go look for a cause.
 
Before you do that, tap it gently a few times or take it out of the water and put it back in. This should get rid of bubbles and you can see if it reads differently. In my experience, calibration is a waste of time.
 
@Srt4eric i had the same thing happen with my salinity probe. Salt gets lodged in two tiny holes in the side. Just take like a piece of scrap wire and ever so gently dislodge it. Then use a little water pressure from your sink to make sure the salts dislodged. Mine went back to normal.

I agree with @svreef calibration is not the issue and a waste of time. a salt crystal is stuck in there.

Didn’t you just mix up salt too? This is when this usually happens.

if you need help call me. It’s easy enough to fix though.
 
svreef said:
Before you do that, tap it gently a few times or take it out of the water and put it back in. This should get rid of bubbles and you can see if it reads differently. In my experience, calibration is a waste of time.
Click to expand...
I've done this. You can see the giant spike in salinity.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top