How Do You Have a Bay Area Safe RODI System, and Fill Up Your ATO Container?

[Rostato]

I have noticed that we have more and more new people becoming members which is AWESOME. So, I figured I would share a little about my RODI and water movement set up. I only have one closet and no garage on the first floor of my house (where the tank is), and my wife will not allow ANY holes to be drilled in our 130 year old Victorian. My wife also doesnt want to see any equipment other than the tank itself. Everything needs to be hidden when not in use. I guess its a little of her interior design and “feng shui.”

I HATE carrying buckets, so this is what I’ve come up with. It’s not a perfect system, but its the best I could come up with. I figure people might get some ideas from me, and others can chime in.

My RODI system is a little over built, but I firmly believe the BARE minimum for the Bay Area Water is
1 sediment filter
2 BRS universal carbon bocks
1 RO membrane
1 mixed bed resin

I highly suggest a 3 stage DI resin. I’d also highly recommend anyone curious about getting or upgrading their RODI system read my post from a while ago. This is when I realized I needed a better water system. My tank has been rock solid ever since, and I still have not changed any resin’s.

 

[IOnceWasLegend]

I have noticed that we have more and more new people becoming members which is AWESOME. So, I figured I would share a little about my RODI and water movement set up. I only have one closet and no garage on the first floor of my house (where the tank is), and my wife will not allow ANY holes to be drilled in our 130 year old Victorian. My wife also doesnt want to see any equipment other than the tank itself. Everything needs to be hidden when not in use. I guess its a little of her interior design and “feng shui.”

I HATE carrying buckets, so this is what I’ve come up with. It’s not a perfect system, but its the best I could come up with. I figure people might get some ideas from me, and others can chime in.

My RODI system is a little over built, but I firmly believe the BARE minimum for the Bay Area Water is
1 sediment filter
2 BRS universal carbon bocks
1 RO membrane
1 mixed bed resin

I highly suggest a 3 stage DI resin. I’d also highly recommend anyone curious about getting or upgrading their RODI system read my post from a while ago. This is when I realized I needed a better water system. My tank has been rock solid ever since, and I still have not changed any resin’s.

Re: the two carbon blocks, is this due to high chlorine/chloramine in the water? (I know very little about the water here.)

 

[Rostato]

Re: the two carbon blocks, is this due to high chlorine/chloramine in the water? (I know very little about the water here.)

correct. You need to make sure that the chloramines get removed before hitting the membrane. Otherwise you’ll kill the membrane much quicker than normal.

The ”sort of” or “mostly” or “half” removed chloramines from one block, or old blocks will leave ammonia behind. Chloramines is essentially chlorine and ammonia bound together. That’s my very un-scientific understanding

 

[Vhuang168]

It's actually not over built. I would agree that it is the minimum.

I run a 0.2 micron sediment, 2 (0.5 micron and a ChlorPlus ) carbon blocks, 2 (99% rejection) RO membranes and 3 (anion,cation and mixed bed) DI.

Tap is 200 - 450 TDS. Out of RO is 2-4 tds. 0 TDS out of DI.

 

[Rostato]

I think mine is “overbuilt“ because of the two sediment filters. I run a 5 micron and a 1 micron. I really want to ensure the carbon blocks stay clean. I only have to change my 5 micron sediment filter once every 6 months. The 1 micron stays good for a long time. I’ve gone over a year already.

 

[max_nano]

Are there tests for chloramines? I’d be interested to see what I’m getting after sediment and carbon. I suspect my apartment building has some carbon filter or something because my source water is 20-30tds so I’ve just been using one sediment and one carbon before the di and membrane

 

[Rostato]

Yes. I don’t know how reliable they are but the total chlorine strips are supposed to test for both. That’s what I use.

 

[rygh]

One trick if you want RODI outside.

Do like they do for TV cable.

Drill up/down inside the wall, to attic or basement.
Use the same type wall plate, for RODI tube.
Nice and clean, no visible holes.

 

[Meshmez]

Yes. I don’t know how reliable they are but the total chlorine strips are supposed to test for both. That’s what I use.

THIS! I think this is something a lot of people miss in proper RODI maintenance! Might want to add that to your original post, as I think this is an important part of the process. You want to be using these to test your waste water after it has been running a little while.

 

[RandyC]

I think mine is “overbuilt“ because of the two sediment filters. I run a 5 micron and a 1 micron. I really want to ensure the carbon blocks stay clean. I only have to change my 5 micron sediment filter once every 6 months. The 1 micron stays good for a long time. I’ve gone over a year already.

overkill would be buying this chloramine monster.

Are there tests for chloramines? I’d be interested to see what I’m getting after sediment and carbon. I suspect my apartment building has some carbon filter or something because my source water is 20-30tds so I’ve just been using one sediment and one carbon before the di and membrane

LaMotte 3027-G Test Strip, Free and Total Chlorine, 25 Strips https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01JDE0SBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_qpMBFb78K89CS

 

[Rostato]

THIS! I think this is something a lot of people miss in proper RODI maintenance! Might want to add that to your original post, as I think this is an important part of the process. You want to be using these to test your waste water after it has been running a little while.

No. You want to measure it right after the carbon blocks. I hint at it in my video.

You want to ensure all the chlorine and or chloramines are removed before the membranes. So, I have a tee and a valve right after the carbon blocks that I can just open to get a cup of water to test.

 

[Meshmez]

No. You want to measure it right after the carbon blocks. I hint at it in my video.

You want to ensure all the chlorine and or chloramines are removed before the membranes. So, I have a tee and a valve right after the carbon blocks that I can just open to get a cup of water to test.

I'm about 90% sure you can just test your waste water. Your waste water isn't filtered any more after the carbon blocks. If anything it would show a higher concentration.

 

[Rostato]

I'm about 90% sure you can just test your waste water. Your waste water isn't filtered any more after the carbon blocks. If anything it would show a higher concentration.

I’m not sure.

my understanding is that the waste water does go through the membrane a little as well. If I’m wrong I definitely want to know.

 

[Meshmez]

I’m not sure.

my understanding is that the waste water does go through the membrane a little as well. If I’m wrong I definitely want to know.

Not sure if you are a BRS believer or not.

My understanding of how an RO membrane works is the majority of the water just passes over it and out. Some pure water passes through and to your product. RO membranes also don't reject much chlorine or chloramine anyway, so even if a small amount is filtered it would be negligible.

 

[Rostato]

Not sure if you are a BRS believer or not.

My understanding of how an RO membrane works is the majority of the water just passes over it and out. Some pure water passes through and to your product. RO membranes also don't reject much chlorine or chloramine anyway, so even if a small amount is filtered it would be negligible.

im sure he knows what he’s talking about. But sounds like either method would work. Before the membranes or from the waste line.

 

[Meshmez]

im sure he knows what he’s talking about. But sounds like either method would work. Before the membranes or from the waste line.

Yes, I don't think there is anything wrong with your method. I think it's the same. You just have a couple extra components in your system.

 

[Meshmez]

Alright, so here's a puzzler... This is straight out of the tap (San Jose)... I got a new set of strips because my old set did this and I figured it was false...

 

[Meshmez]

OK even more puzzling.... This is my water that is not softened.... I was under the impression that water softeners don't remove chlorine/chloramines? I don't believe my softener has a carbon filter on it...

 

[Rostato]

Certainly seems like it does.

 

[Meshmez]

I'm thoroughly confused...
The manual has these 2 sections...

But there is no mention of a carbon filter, or replacing a carbon filter. I see no carbon filter, and the breakout parts list shows no carbon filter...