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Installing a Typhoon 3 RO/DI unit

DurTBear

DurTBear

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Just got my new Typhoon RO/DI unit so I'm excited to start making my own water as opposed to going to the grocery store to fill up jugs. Should have done this a long time ago. Anyway, I'm curious how everyone that has this has installed the drain line. I'm going to be using the drain saddle attached to my bathroom sink drain pipe. It's a metal drainpipe so what's the best way (and drill bit) to create the hole? I know it has to be a 1/4" bit but what are the best bits for metal? And is it even ok to drill through a metal pipe? All the installation instructions that I've found online appear to be drilling through pvc drainpipes. Just want to make sure I do it right so I apologize for my lack of handyman skills.
 
for metal, use a high-speed metal bit. Nothing terribly fancy about them, but they work far better on metal then wood drills do on metal. There are other bits you can use but not necessary. I use normal high-speed bits all the time on machining both aluminum and non hardened steel at work.
 
Yeah, looks pretty sweet and everyone says good things about it. Boy is it bigger than I thought. I mean, I knew the dimensions and all before I bought it but it still surprised me when I opened up the box.
 
Since you're using this indoors, you might want to consider picking up a mechanical garden timer from Home Depot to go with the RO/DI if you aren't using a float switch. They're great because they count down minutes to keep the RO unit on and prevent you from overfilling your water container. After you use it a few times, you'll figure out how much time it takes to fill X number of gallons. $15.

Super easy to install and doesn't need batteries.

http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Irrigation-Sprinkler-Timers-Controllers-Mechanical-Timers/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5Zbcqc/R-100659515/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
 
cool little timer jason =) I rely on my auto shutoff valve thing, it's been decent so far, but if I got one of these timers, that'd further make sure you don't have an overflowing container!

Doesn't look like it'll snap right into the JG speed fittings, might need a FPT adapter?
 
Not sure how you have your RO unit hooked up, but my Spectrapure has a normal garden hose connection. I go from the hose bib in my garage, to the timer, to the Spectrapure's FPT connector. The timer doesn't take JG fittings.

I have had a timer fail on me before, so I think having both a timer and a float is a good combo. That said, I'm too lazy to install a float switch and if it overflows, it just floods the garage, so I don't care if the timer fails once in a blue moon.

Before I got this timer, I used to turn my RO on and then try to remember to turn it off. My garage was always wet. :p
 
Cool idea. I didn't know those types of timers existed. I think I will eventually get a float valve once I get it up and running. In the meantime, I'll just try to remember to turn it off or get one of those timers.
 
Just a forewarning, if you're going the 'try to remember' route, be sure to set up your container in the bathtub or some other place you can overflow. It is extremely easy to forget and leave the RO unit on overnight!
 
I like your idea of putting the container in the bathtub as another safety mechanism. I'll make sure the output line is long enough to reach to the bathtub.
 
"I'll remember" method...is why I have my RO unit in the garage along with the RO storage and the waste going out to the lawn. I've failed to remember several times ;)
 
Anyone have any good ideas for adding a spacer to the drain saddle? The drain saddle is too big for my bathroom drainpipe. Figures...it's always something...
 
Yay! Just finished installing the RO/DI unit. Everything seems to be working well. One question I have though is which valves should be open/closed when I'm not using it? Do I close the supply valve and pure water outlet valve? Or do I just close the pure water outlet valve? It seems to make a hissing sound right now.
 
I'm no pro, but doesn't look like anyone replied yet.

Did yours come with an auto shutoff valve? it should turn itself off when the final outlet is closed. I have a float that closes the outlet when my water reservoir fills up all the way, and that's due to the auto shutoff detecting the backpressure and shuts the unit off.
 
Hey Art, yeah I have the auto shutoff valve. So if I shut off the final outlet, it does stop but I still hear the hissing sound. Don't know if that's water running through the system still or air that's still in the system. They say it could take a few days for the whole thing to work properly and that when you first set it up, there could be air stuck inside of it which could also be a source for the sound. So in the meantime, I'm also shutting off the supply valve. Another problem seems to be the first stage/cannister is leaking. Water slowly seeps out of the top of the cannister so I have it sitting in a piece of tupperware right now. I emailed Air, Water and Ice about this.
 
Maybe the first stage cannister leaking is linked to the hissing sound?

I use the mechanical timer, so when it shuts off, it cuts the water at the supply. I never cut it at the outlet, but I don't know which method (supply vs outlet) is better or if they're the same.
 
It's quite possible that could be linked to the hissing sound. It's coming from that general direction. We'll see what Air, Water and Ice say since I sent them an email.

I would think that cutting it off at the supply might be better so the whole system isn't under pressure while it's off. But I don't really know...
 
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