Cali Kid Corals

marine velevet!!!!!!!!! Crap

So, I have been reefing low key for about 2 years. Had Ich on a few fish, most survived, lost a few like most of us.

I am now dealing with something I never knew was so horrible. Marine Velvet.
It is my fault, I did not QT some new fish I bought over the last 2 weeks.
I noticed 2 died relatively fast, and I thought maybe stress or being bullied, etc.

Then they all started to die bar my 2 clownfish- who can survive a nuclear fallout- it seems.

My last 2 fish is my sailfin and Humu Trigger- I took them out and put him in an emergency QT I set up with my old bio cube 14. This morning, the trigger passed away but man did he fight like hell. That one really hurt to watch

I am new to his emergency QT thing- I have read plenty but still a little nervous about this whole thing.

I added Cupramine at half the dose as to ramp up- if this is velvet- I think I need to ramp it up faster- is this correct?
0.5 is what seachem recommends...
I have ordered my copper test kit and it gets here on Friday,- around the time for the second dose as per Seachem.

I am running filter floss only- and used some dirty floss from my Clean 40 gallon to help with the spike.
I also added a bio ball from my DT as well to help out.

The cube is too small for the sailfin clearly. I needed to get him out asap.

Today I will have to catch my clownfish and add them too.

I will let the tank go fallow with my coral and CUC for a few weeks. I have put in the UV green killing machine in the DT to help. I am also dosing hydrogen peroxide at low levels 2x day to kill any free simming critters.

This really F-ing sucks. I have never experienced anything like this before.
Any kind thoughts or suggestions? I think I need to get a bigger QT.

Any sympathies also will help. SO bummed I lost all my fish.
 
Velvet is no joke. I got it once from a fish I bought from another reefer. I didn't qt because it's was a healthy fish from another reefer and I already have ich. He didn't mention it had survived velvet (which makes him a carrier).

I lost 12 fish in 2 days. The only survivor was a very small clownfish, who is still alive and in my daughter's tank.
 
Yeah, having lost a batch of clownfish, a few other fish, all because I did something stupid (had systems plumbed together, and didn't realize that the valves were open) and all of this from a clownfish "Sustainable" my ass! I tried the medications (cramp can't recall the name, C<something> phosphate?) did nothing. So everything gets QT'd now, no screwing around.

That said bigger QT is a must plenty of people always giving up junky tanks, if you don't have room for a bigger QT, then you don't have room for large fish like Sailfin (which I'd say a 40g tank is not room for that fish either). Definitely let your tank go fallow, if it wasn't for corals I'd say drain it. Do water changes frequently on the QT tank though to make sure ammonia doesn't add to the problem, Seachem Prime (or Safe) is another idea too.
 
Yeah, having lost a batch of clownfish, a few other fish, all because I did something stupid (had systems plumbed together, and didn't realize that the valves were open) and all of this from a clownfish "Sustainable" my ass! I tried the medications (cramp can't recall the name, C<something> phosphate?) did nothing. So everything gets QT'd now, no screwing around.

That said bigger QT is a must plenty of people always giving up junky tanks, if you don't have room for a bigger QT, then you don't have room for large fish like Sailfin (which I'd say a 40g tank is not room for that fish either). Definitely let your tank go fallow, if it wasn't for corals I'd say drain it. Do water changes frequently on the QT tank though to make sure ammonia doesn't add to the problem, Seachem Prime (or Safe) is another idea too.

I read that you cannot mix prime with cupramine. Something bad happens when combined. SO Ill just do small water changes.
Im looking at some used tanks on CL right now. My sailfin was lightly covered in velvet but seems to be doing ok. He is swimming fine- and hiding in the pvc tubing I put in the biocube.
 
You have not seen flukes; it’s more brutal.

All fish need to be qt for 4 weeks and for Hawaii and Caribbean fish probably 2-3 months.
 
Definite sympathies, that totally stinks!!!!
:(
Most of us do know what fish/coral feels like.
I had my issues once with a short-QT due to vacation plans, and ich getting through.

Note that while velvet Tomonts do not encyst like ich, they do take time to grow and re-infect.
That means tank-transfer-method can be of some benefit.
Plus, with TTM, you have better control over cupramine/Formaline levels.
In normal QT, you have to guess at how fast levels drop, and when to add more.
In TTM, you simply do full dose every transfer.
Also, you can mix treatment types by switching at each transfer.
NEVER mix meds together in QT.
 
Btw, for QT, I get those hdx 12G storage containers from home depot... have 2 , and do TTM... cheap and easy

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 
Buckets for TTM and then into QT for observation, adjustments, and fattening.

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To be clear: TTM alone does not "fix" the problem, it only helps.
Also, I think Chloroquine phosphate is the go-to thing for velvet right now, but not entirely sure.
And you may want to do a Formalin bath on that tang.
The clownfish will probably survive with basic treatment. They have so far, and are know to resist it pretty well.

There are lots of good articles with very detailed descriptions of how to deal with velvet.
Key : Move fast.
 
Im interested in the TTM now. Sailfin is alive and eating nori.
I can get the buckets from Home Depot and begin the treatment....transfer the fish every 2 or 3 days?
Also, what shall I use to clean the "dirty" bucket? I can wash it with tap water, rinse with RODI and let air dry?
Also, I would need a seperate heater and power head for both buckets right?
 
Im interested in the TTM now. Sailfin is alive and eating nori.
I can get the buckets from Home Depot and begin the treatment....transfer the fish every 2 or 3 days?
Also, what shall I use to clean the "dirty" bucket? I can wash it with tap water, rinse with RODI and let air dry?
Also, I would need a seperate heater and power head for both buckets right?

Clean buckets, heater, and bubbler with bleach solution, rinse very well with tap water, dry well. No need for RODI.
I use an airstone, not a powerhead. Although both would probably work fine.
You might be pushing it going 3 days for a large fish.
Be careful NOT to use a large heater, and test it before putting fish in.
They can overshoot rather badly, heating up the water quite a bit. Plus the settings on the dial can be way off.

I actually do transfer every day, but I have a big DT and big mixing station.
The advantage is that the Alk/PH and other parameters are less likely to swing,
so you do not shock the fish when transferring. Plus you get in a habit of doing it every night, so don't forget.
 
If you have ich in the system, you will have to pull all the fish and leave fallow for 72 days. If not, doing TTM will clean the fish of ich but the fish will get reinfected again when you put the fish back in.
 
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