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Plumbing RODI help - Self-Piercing Saddle valve?

Patio

Patio

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Should I use a saddle valve or look for a different solution.

I purchased a new RODI unit a few weeks ago but have been lagging to set it up because it is a lot less straight forward than my previous house where I just connected it to my utility sink. In our current house, we have a really old utility sink (the fixtures more than the sink tub) which I cannot connect straight to the faucet. The sizing is off and even if the sizing was correct, the male threads are not in good shape. I was looking around and thinking well maybe I can use the self-piercing saddle valve? I wanted to check with you all and see if this is a good solution or something I should avoid?

@Coral reefer any thoughts (and thank you in advance)?

I was thinking I would just replace the utility sink with a new (found a nice hand me down months ago) one but I have had many of hardware store employees tell me how lucky I am to have old well built fixtures that are easy to repair when you develops drip leaks. I am not sure if the hardware store guys are right or not but I must say it has been easy to replace washers and correct leaks.

Pat

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I went down the YouTube rabbit hole and found a plumbing reaction channel. it’s a licenses plumber who reviews plumbing mistakes. He covered these and said they are not a good idea because they can leak and then when you want to remove them you have to redo the plumbing in that section.
I’m no plumber so here’s the video. saddle part starts at 2:10
 
Patio said:
Should I use a saddle valve or look for a different solution.

I purchased a new RODI unit a few weeks ago but have been lagging to set it up because it is a lot less straight forward than my previous house where I just connected it to my utility sink. In our current house, we have a really old utility sink (the fixtures more than the sink tub) which I cannot connect straight to the faucet. The sizing is off and even if the sizing was correct, the male threads are not in good shape. I was looking around and thinking well maybe I can use the self-piercing saddle valve? I wanted to check with you all and see if this is a good solution or something I should avoid?

@Coral reefer any thoughts (and thank you in advance)?

I was thinking I would just replace the utility sink with a new (found a nice hand me down months ago) one but I have had many of hardware store employees tell me how lucky I am to have old well built fixtures that are easy to repair when you develops drip leaks. I am not sure if the hardware store guys are right or not but I must say it has been easy to replace washers and correct leaks.

Pat

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I succeeded in sweating a T on my existing line, but the elbow gave me fits, so I just used a SharkBite. It's been AOK for almost 3 years now. Maybe that's an option as opposed to a saddle valve? Depending on the hardness of your water, saddle valves can clog and oxidize pretty quickly
 
I am not sure if the pipes leading to the sink are cast iron or galvanized steel but I am sure they are old.
 
I don’t like the saddle valve. They get less pressure usually too. Maybe replace the faucet or do like mike yasin and tap into the plumbing pre sink. I can probably help, not sure how soon tho. Feel free to pm me maybe I can help via FaceTime or zoom
 
max_nano said:
I went down the YouTube rabbit hole and found a plumbing reaction channel. it’s a licenses plumber who reviews plumbing mistakes. He covered these and said they are not a good idea because they can leak and then when you want to remove them you have to redo the plumbing in that section.
I’m no plumber so here’s the video. saddle part starts at 2:10
Click to expand...
When did the old man from American Chopper start doing plumbing? :D
 
Galoot said:
Do you have standard 3/8" angle stops? If so, use these. Then 3/8 to 1/4 John guest for the rodi
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Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
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Do this! I had two saddle valves under my kitchen sink (ice maker and RODI) and the valves I find really restrict flow and when my ice maker went on the blink, I couldn't shut the needle valve off. It basically never closes again! Do it right the first time with real plumbing parts!

V
 
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This is what I am working with in the garage. The tub is only connected to the drain. The pipes come straight out of the wall.
 
Srt4eric said:
@Patio can you sweat pipe?
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I have never tried and wouldn't trust myself but my dad lives nearby and is on board for helping. I just need to figure out a plan and parts for the plan. You mentioned while i am at it, that i should use better connections for the washing machine. good idea and I plan on it.
 
Undo the supply lines. Unscrew the angle stops from the tee's. Get 2 half inch male adapters. If you cant or dont want to sweat get the shark bite push connect. On the hot just add a 1/2 to 3/4 angle stop for the washing machine. On the cold add a tee then the 1/2 to 3/4 angle stop and the other side the 1/2 to 1/4 john guest fitting.
 
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