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Tank Transfer is only important to people who believe their tank can be ich free. If you believe ich is always in a tank, tank transfer is useless to you.

Tank Transfer exploits the life cycle of ich. As the ich feeds off your fish, it later enters into a different life stage, where it falls off the fish and multiplies before the offspring reattach to your fish. If you transfer your fish to a new ich free container before the ich enters its next life stage,...ich cannot complete it's life cycle and reattach to your fish.

More info here/success stories here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1996525

Rich Ross mentioned it was a viable method (if you do it correctly) for dealing with ich at the December talk.
 
Came home today to see my McCoskers Flasher Wrasse dried up in the center of my screen top! I have almost every bit of it closed and literally there's like 1/2" gap where the return line pipe sits and this guy made it out from there to the center top of the screen taking a sun/led bath!! :(

Time to look at my next addition... I'm very skeptical since I don't QT and afraid I'll bring some disease in!

same thing happened to me. i have about an inch in the back, and they all seem to know how to jump through that.
 
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Sorry to hear about this. No fun losing a fish.

At least you did the due diligence to cover the tank with a mesh lid, hard to believe this guy escaped through that.
 
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Tank Transfer is only important to people who believe their tank can be ich free. If you believe ich is always in a tank, tank transfer is useless to you.

Tank Transfer exploits the life cycle of ich. As the ich feeds off your fish, it later enters into a different life stage, where it falls off the fish and multiplies before the offspring reattach to your fish. If you transfer your fish to a new ich free container before the ich enters its next life stage,...ich cannot complete it's life cycle and reattach to your fish.

More info here/success stories here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1996525

Rich Ross mentioned it was a viable method (if you do it correctly) for dealing with ich at the December talk.
I just find it surprising that he says every three days. Seems like a long time to me.
 
72 hours is close to the minimum time it takes for the immobile cyst stage of ich to develop into the free swimming stage which can reinfect to fish. The shortest amount of time biologists have observed for the development of free swimming ich from the cyst stage is 96 hours. If you transfer within 72 hours youre safe.

The ich life cycle has been well studied by the scientific community. Primarily because food and pet aquaculture firms will pay biologists to study it, since their business is growing fish.

Heres a thread discussing the ich life cycle in detail with references to scientific articles.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2159738
 
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For tank transfer method, I do the swap every day.
But not because of the ich directly, because yes, it is overkill.

Reason 1: Never any ammonia buildup.
Remember that there is zero bacterial filter, so ammonia builds up fast.
In changing every day, you can feed that new fish plenty, which it likely needs, with no issues.

Reason 2: Simpler
If I simply do it every day, I will not get sloppy and forget.
Or, if something big comes up at work, I can skip a day.
 
72 hours is close to the minimum time it takes for the immobile cyst stage of ich to develop into the free swimming stage which can reinfect to fish. The shortest amount of time biologists have observed for the development of free swimming ich from the cyst stage is 96 hours. If you transfer within 72 hours youre safe.

The ich life cycle has been well studied by the scientific community. Primarily because food and pet aquaculture firms will pay biologists to study it, since their business is growing fish.

Heres a thread discussing the ich life cycle in detail with references to scientific articles.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2159738
That is interesting. I really thought it would be quicker than that. Thanks for the info!
 
Been out of the country for 15 days and happy to report everything in the system was perfect when I got back :)

Not many updates other than one of my RW-4 giving up (vinegar bath didn't help), so for now replaced with an old Koralia mini powerhead.
 
Been out of the country for 15 days and happy to report everything in the system was perfect when I got back :)

Not many updates other than one of my RW-4 giving up (vinegar bath didn't help), so for now replaced with an old Koralia mini powerhead.

Found a little tip with the RWs. Seems the ceramic shafts get deposits that sometimes vinegar doesn't eat away. This binds with the ceramic bearings causing it to stop.

If you pull the shaft off, feel it with you nail to see if it catches on stuff. I used a knife to carefully scrap off the deposits. A tip on RC was to use airline hose in place of the ceramic bearing to prolong time between cleanings.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Just got done with fixing a nightmare!!! Long story short, when I was doing my PWC today, a freakin snail got stuck inside my drain plumbing and water flow reduced by 80% and I almost had water overflow out of the DT!

Lesson #3246 - Always have a snail guard on drains into the sump & on your return pump! I have a herbie setup and had one snail guarded while on the other had a durso to silence it. Who would imagine a snail getting into a durso!!! I couldn't disassemble my plumbing cos 2 yrs ago I used slip PVC and freakin glued all of it such that I can never take it apart (already learned this was the shittiest move very long time ago, lesson #2830!!) so tried all freaking yoga poses under my stand with crazy tools to try to get that bastard out. 3 hrs, its 1:15am and I got it out finally...

Outcome? Tank is back normal while I have a million cuts on my hand :( Its all part of this beautiful hobby ;) Atleast the snail didn't get in while I was not home!!
 
I just recently had a large turbo snail get stuck in the main drain of my tank. Luckily I am running a bean animal and the open channel took over the flow.

Had to open up the gate valve to remove it. It was just big enough to get stuck in the pipe.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just got done with fixing a nightmare!!! Long story short, when I was doing my PWC today, a freakin snail got stuck inside my drain plumbing and water flow reduced by 80% and I almost had water overflow out of the DT!

Lesson #3246 - Always have a snail guard on drains into the sump & on your return pump! I have a herbie setup and had one snail guarded while on the other had a durso to silence it. Who would imagine a snail getting into a durso!!! I couldn't disassemble my plumbing cos 2 yrs ago I used slip PVC and freakin glued all of it such that I can never take it apart (already learned this was the shittiest move very long time ago, lesson #2830!!) so tried all freaking yoga poses under my stand with crazy tools to try to get that bastard out. 3 hrs, its 1:15am and I got it out finally...

Outcome? Tank is back normal while I have a million cuts on my hand :( Its all part of this beautiful hobby ;) Atleast the snail didn't get in while I was not home!!

I hear you on the - why the heck did I glue that??? :mad:

Be careful of those million cuts if you have been working in the tank!!
 
Hahahaha I know your pain! The snails in my frag tank ALWAYS get stuck in the emergency drain. I need to kick hiim out of the frag tank. Only VERY small snails or very large snails. That way they ca'nt go down the drain. It's a 3/4 Inch drain.
 
I wasn't able to fit the tall strainer in the drains in my new external overflow box, but reading this post inspired me to get a flat/low-profile strainer for the main bulkhead between the internal/external portions of the overflow to keep snails/fish out of the external box/drains.
 
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