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Crack on AIO chamber wall..

newfly

newfly

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Just noticed the crack a couple of weeks ago. Initially I thought it’s algae , but after cleaning the back glass, sure enough it’s a crack.

Good news is it’s not structural, the the crack glass is separating the main display with the rear filtration chamber.

I’m concern if this is a prelude to something bigger? Well the tank warranty expired 1 year ago . I’m going to email Waterbox to see what they say.

Curious what’s the general opinion is. I’m leaning not worrying about it too ha much.
 

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Is that back wall glass or plastic? Didn't you have an issue with the tank going out of level? If it wasn't for that level issue I wouldn't worry about it
 
glass.

I had the foundation relevel - coat a fortune but that’s another story.

The tank is more or less level now. After the foundation work done.
 

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Come to think about it, could this be the cause? I do a 10-15% water change weekly by draining the rear filtration chamber and refilling it. I assume this can cause stress to the divider glass.
 
newfly said:
Come to think about it, could this be the cause? I do a 10-15% water change weekly by draining the rear filtration chamber and refilling it. I assume this can cause stress to the divider glass.
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Possibly. My old AIO I can see the back panel flex pretty strongly if I siphon from the front or back exclusively (it's plastic).
 
Going to drain and fill from the main section moving forward. Going to think for possible solution to strengthen that area. Adding a 2 piece of glass to sandwich the crack? Will that even do anything? As long as the whole section don’t fall off, I’m good. I am not concern about minor amount of water bypassing the filtration.

Drain and silicon the crack is a lot of work especially if silicon don’t cure underwater. Anyone knows any alternative besides silicon? I read superglue is not strong enough. Epoxy ? Going to be hard to make it look presentable.
 
I’ve used super glue and E6000 mixed together before so super glue makes it hold quickly and e6000 gives strength but normally takes 24 hr or something to fully cure I think. Might have to keep water line below the repair area tho. You’d have to read directions on e6000
 
Is the back wall glass or black acrylic? I remember my Innovative Marine all in one had a sheet of black acrylic glued to glass behind it. It was their way of designing the overflow teeth in the acrylic rather than glass which was shorter than the acrylic. I assume because it is easy to cut out overflow teeth in acrylic.
 
Glass. Waterbox AIO.

Still curious is sandwich the crack area with 2 pieces of glass using strong magnets will help reinforce the weakened area.
 
Coral reefer said:
I’ve used super glue and E6000 mixed together before so super glue makes it hold quickly and e6000 gives strength but normally takes 24 hr or something to fully cure I think. Might have to keep water line below the repair area tho. You’d have to read directions on e6000
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Draining the water for extended period will kill quite a few corals. Can’t readily move the coral either . Not an option at this stage.
 
Edit: Re read more. Sounds like this is a non critical/ non structural piece of glass. A Thick Glob of epoxy will add some strain relief but it looks like there is a crack all the way through. I would glob epoxy on the crack then grow coral over it.

Corals could be dry for 10-20 minutes with no real harm, longer if you pour water over them as the epoxy sets.
 
H2OPlayar said:
Edit: Re read more. Sounds like this is a non critical/ non structural piece of glass. A Thick Glob of epoxy will add some strain relief but it looks like there is a crack all the way through. I would glob epoxy on the crack then grow coral over it.

Corals could be dry for 10-20 minutes with no real harm, longer if you pour water over them as the epoxy sets.
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Is there a liquid /2-parts epoxy that’s reef safe? I don’t think the putty version works
 
Most 2 part epoxies if used in proper portions should cure inert. When they are not mixed is when there are issues. I'd do 5 minute, so you know if it cured well, then run a bunch of carbon after in addition to water changes. Anything volotile should be able to be absorbed by carbon. Granted this is opinion based on my understanding of the chemistry going on.
 
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