High Tide Aquatics

Will this support a 140 gallon display tank?

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thanh510

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Will this support my 140 gallon display tank (see attached pdf too)?

I am going to use it for a reefer650p tank.

Someone told me I need more shear support, so I added the 45s. I don't want them in the front as I am going to install drawers there. They also told me I should make a steel stand. However, doing anything steel in the bay area is very expensive. More expensive than 8020s.

1584818302411.png


The unit is undersize a little as this module will be cladded with 3/4" wood.

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Appreciate the help! THanks!
 

Attachments

  • 8020.pdf
    1.3 MB · Views: 459
I think that should be good for your tank. Here is a link to crystal dynamics stand page to show that they recently went from steel to extruded aluminum stands for most of their tanks. They said it would be strong enough for even a 250g or more.

cdaquarium.com

Steel Aquarium Stands

An aquarium stand is the foundation that supports an extremely heavy body of water in the middle of your home. Improper support, uneven or out-of-level stand or floor surface is the single primary reason for fish tank failures. Knowing that, our builders make stands with all the necessary...
cdaquarium.com
 
Are those panels in the front decorative? Or are they removable? This for your shear question. For instance if you have one side that is not going to be accessible I would bolt a sheet of plywood to the aluminum and that will be MORE than enough sheer in that direction. The strength of this stuff in any particular direction really comes down to connectors that you use, for instance instead of those big 45s, you could use a corner bracket like this https://www.tnutz.com/product/cb-015-k/ which will probably be more than sufficient in that direction, and easier to fasten. I assume the way the one end is done on the top is due to the overflow (peninsula style right?).

Much like wood stands it's real easy to over engineer extruded aluminum where it gives no real advantage, and adds to the complexity of the system, the order at which you put things together sometimes matters. Also not sure where you're pricing your parts out, but tnutz.com is my go to place for aluminum, pretty much all the connectors (which easily can double the cost of your setup) are like 1/2 the 8020 pricing, and even the aluminum is a bit cheaper too, they don't have cut charges (although still have machining charges).

Ultimately double check and triple check every measurement, and learn about the fasteners if you haven't already!
 
sfsuphysics said:
Are those panels in the front decorative? Or are they removable? This for your shear question. For instance if you have one side that is not going to be accessible I would bolt a sheet of plywood to the aluminum and that will be MORE than enough sheer in that direction. The strength of this stuff in any particular direction really comes down to connectors that you use, for instance instead of those big 45s, you could use a corner bracket like this https://www.tnutz.com/product/cb-015-k/ which will probably be more than sufficient in that direction, and easier to fasten. I assume the way the one end is done on the top is due to the overflow (peninsula style right?).

Much like wood stands it's real easy to over engineer extruded aluminum where it gives no real advantage, and adds to the complexity of the system, the order at which you put things together sometimes matters. Also not sure where you're pricing your parts out, but tnutz.com is my go to place for aluminum, pretty much all the connectors (which easily can double the cost of your setup) are like 1/2 the 8020 pricing, and even the aluminum is a bit cheaper too, they don't have cut charges (although still have machining charges).

Ultimately double check and triple check every measurement, and learn about the fasteners if you haven't already!
Click to expand...
It's open on one end for the overflow.

The panels will all be decorative. the Doors will open all around and will be removable. The cabinet frame will not be strong at all, so it will add no shear. I am designing it with the intention of moving it to another location one day. So all sides will be accessible. I can add a couple of plywood divider and sheer the more narrow sides and then use some of the corners as you suggested. It's pretty cheap so I rather over engineer and under =).

That the good about the software is the measurements will be exact!

And thank you for the site suggestion. I will look into it. It's really easy to order from 8020 with the frame designer software. As you can see, they already itemize it out for you.
 
thanh510 said:
It's open on one end for the overflow.
Click to expand...
You're pipes will have enough room to be installed? plumbed in the same way? These are the types of measurements I'm talking about.

The panels will all be decorative. the Doors will open all around and will be removable. The cabinet frame will not be strong at all, so it will add no shear. I am designing it with the intention of moving it to another location one day. So all sides will be accessible. I can add a couple of plywood divider and sheer the more narrow sides and then use some of the corners as you suggested. It's pretty cheap so I rather over engineer and under =).
Click to expand...
Well when I talked panels I mean the entire side, but yeah if there's doors that's not going to add terribly much sheer.

Definitely think there's ways to shore up really good, but it takes compromises. Definitely look into using those corner brackets on every corner then, they're super easy to install as they require no further machining to the aluminum unlike the anchor fasteners and end fastners, and they do stiffen up the whole frame pretty good.
 
Squist said:
I saw the 80/20 design specs you shared. If you were to order what you designed it would arrive at your door pre-cut too?
Click to expand...
Yup, it comes cut to size, and machined out as needed (i.e. you ordered and paid for it).

I got a small bit for my light rack and even though it's aluminum, it's pretty damn heavy all things considered .. so shipping can bite you in the butt.
 
sfsuphysics said:
You're pipes will have enough room to be installed? plumbed in the same way? These are the types of measurements I'm talking about.
Click to expand...
Yup.I didn't measure the depth but it can be lowered relatively easy with 8020.

sfsuphysics said:
Well when I talked panels I mean the entire side, but yeah if there's doors that's not going to add terribly much sheer.

Definitely think there's ways to shore up really good, but it takes compromises. Definitely look into using those corner brackets on every corner then, they're super easy to install as they require no further machining to the aluminum unlike the anchor fasteners and end fastners, and they do stiffen up the whole frame pretty good.
Click to expand...
I had them on originally but someone told me they were not that strong so I asked for another opinion. I have so far discounted their knowledge on the matter. LOL.

Squist said:
I saw the 80/20 design specs you shared. If you were to order what you designed it would arrive at your door pre-cut too?
Click to expand...

With their frame designer software, once designed, you click "buy," calculate shipping (stupid expensive) and pay. It's stupid easy.
 
Looks good, Do note that the gussets are more for side to side stability, racking, sheer, etc. It'll hold the weight just fine. When I did my light rack out of the stuff it was much less pieces, but when every last bolt was tightened up it was super stiff.
 
Where did you end up ordering from?

I’m currently working on designing a 8020 stand for my new 30x30x24 and have been in contact with a local distributor in Pleasanton. However I did draft a design based on the frameing tech 8020 stands using the parts from tnutz, came out to about $250 in parts which seems very reasonable.

If anyone has any input I’d appreciate it, based on your design I believe I might need additional cross bars for the top and bottom frame.

35E5059B-C143-4E25-9C87-D60980E7C88F.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • tank_stand.pdf
    70.3 KB · Views: 458
Tnutz. It was cheaper. I designed it with frame tech and then itemized the purchase with tnutz. Frametech has the drilled holes all wrong anyways.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yeah Tnutz is the cheapest place I've found, everything from fasteners which are easily 50% cheaper, to joining plates, the extrusions themselves, hell even any machining you may need for certain connectors is a lot cheaper. The only downside is they don't have a lot of sizing options, but as long as you're happy with 10 series or 15 series (1" and 1.5") you'll be fine.
 
That thing looks great until there is an earthquake, then I worry. Even with those gussets in the drawing, the lack of sheer supports look like a problem.
140G tank = 1200 pounds.
Even a moderate earthquake can generate 0.2G horizontal acceleration.
That means 240 pounds of side force. Not gigantic, but with no real sheer supports, a problem.
You can test it.
Put the back legs against the fireplace.
Have two strong people push horizontally against the top rail. Does it bend?
 
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