Tikis return to the hobby, 40B
- Thread starter VacavilleFC
- Start date
Minor observation, I suck at plumbing but looking at height of baffled walls in sump, your drain lines seem as though they would contact water inside the sump.
Never a good idea to have drains at or below sumps water level. You want a clear air gap of a 1- a few inches in event of a power failed its possible to reverse sphion some of your tank water. Just something to consider. How much it could drain depends on where the drains are located in the display tank.
Never a good idea to have drains at or below sumps water level. You want a clear air gap of a 1- a few inches in event of a power failed its possible to reverse sphion some of your tank water. Just something to consider. How much it could drain depends on where the drains are located in the display tank.
PjFish
Supporting Member
Never had heard this before can you explain it a bit more ? Both my drains are about 6 inches below waterline in sump to reduce noise and bubbles haven’t had an issue with back pressure yet nor any syphoning.. Most all return lines connected to return pumps would be in the same scenario?
I turn my return pump off every 4 or 5 days changing socks which simulates power off plus that would be super easy to syphon out your sump into a higher bucket which never have bothered just use a pump
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Maybe it's how my tank is plumbed again no expert. On my over the back return lines on 40gallon tank, I loose power my tank use to drain back into the to sump from return lines.
I've had same issue with reverse sphion with ato reservoir that fell into sumps water.
I was under impression you always want a air gap to prevent reverse sphion.
For my over the back return lines I had to raise them much higher in water column so they are only a inch in control8ng how much can be sphion out. Before they were down 3/4 inches that's how much water was drained out tank
I also never heard of it allowing tank to be quieter my 210nis little bit nosiy but not unbearable. My 40 gallon is slient by comparison.
40gallon has 2 drains while 210gallon has 3 if that somehow makes a difference idk?
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PjFish
Supporting Member
Thanks! The gap your leaving from the lines in the sump will not prevent syphoning nor stop it..E.G when you do water changes and syphoning water out of tanks into buckets you can put the water exit line anywhere from bucket to bucket or when it flops out on ur floor it keeps syphoning nothing will stop it unless you lift the hose in the tank out of the tank creating an air gap. Common for people to drill a small hole in return line in tank to allow an air break preventing syphoning into the return chamber of sump.. Now drilling a hole or small cut on the top elbow of the overflow pvc drains prevents an air blockage plus can silence the trickle noise which is a different scenario but good practice depending on your plumbing. Every sump ideally should have plenty of room to handle any extra water syphoned from the tank if not like you said raise your return lines in tank or drill holes up top breaking the syphon. Hope I explained it right not a plumbing expert either but having all girls I say I am an expert unclogging toilets lol..
VacavilleFC
Supporting Member
thats impossible with the eclipse overflow. there's no tube to create a siphon. thats why I drilled the tank
would be possible with the return but ive place it higher than the bottom of baffles. so if power goes out overflow drains it down to where the return is exposed and breaks siphon.
drains are in the sump water to reduce noise and force micro bubbles down.
this isnt my first rodeo plumbing tanks. my previous system and 3 tanks linked to 1 sump
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VacavilleFC
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RandyC
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I wouldn't recommend this strategy. While it can potentially stop a siphon, you're playing a game of timing. You have to ensure that enough air gets in the drain to break the vacuum in the siphon before water drains from return line filling the sump. If enough water fills the sump before enough air gets in, you can still potentially have the siphon. It is better to drill a small hole near the top of the plumbing to ensure a constant flow of air can break the siphon. Also, using an external overflow that limits the amount of water that can flow from the tank from the drains lines is a good idea. Making sure return lines are not too low in the tank is another.
Whether there are 2 or 3 drains in the tank, is not the determining factor in noise. It will be determined by 1) air in the drain line and 2) how far water is falling into another body of water (where the source is not submerged). Any small amount of air can create noise. I'm pretty OCD when it comes to tank noise. If you look at this post, this amount of air in the drain line annoys me. Also, on all my tanks, my drain lines are submerged.
Randy’s Flock o' Reef Tanks
So I decided to replace my Reefer 250 with another tank that had a little deeper profile and also an external overflow. Gave me a good 5-6” of back to front space versus the reefer. I had a little bit of a slow start after I needed to get some tank replacements (two). The replacements were...
www.bareefers.org
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VacavilleFC
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VacavilleFC
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VacavilleFC
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VacavilleFC
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sending the Jebao DC 2500 back. its output seems inconsistant, might be because im having to run it on its lowest setting and it stalls every now and then, or its just a POS.
have a sicce syncro silent 1.0 on the way from BFS.
also got an email back from autotopoff.com they are still in business! so I'll be ordering from them later this week.
what are people using for ato pumps these days since Tom's aqualifter arent available anymore?
have a sicce syncro silent 1.0 on the way from BFS.
also got an email back from autotopoff.com they are still in business! so I'll be ordering from them later this week.
what are people using for ato pumps these days since Tom's aqualifter arent available anymore?
RandyC
Supporting Member
You probably won't get much flow through that with the head pressure. I'd guess you're going to get 100-125gph if you're lucky. I'd recommend getting something with a little more oomph. At least in the 500gph range (e.g., a sicce synchra silent 2.0) - though to be honest, I'm not a huge fan of the sicce synchras because they've been anything but silent for me.
VacavilleFC
Supporting Member
thats really all I need that would be 3x turnover for my 40B. they are rated to 250gph at 5' of head
VacavilleFC
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ammonia 0
nitrates 0
nitrates 5-10
we're ready for a CuC. placing an order with John at reefcleaners today
nitrates 0
nitrates 5-10
we're ready for a CuC. placing an order with John at reefcleaners today
VacavilleFC
Supporting Member
Definitely start them off with some nori. Mine have reached the nothing left to eat stage in my smaller tank and they can wipe out a quarter sheet in one evening now.
VacavilleFC
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good idea, I also have some wakame. right now there's plenty of diatoms for everyone
Sinking crab pellets twice a week for the hermits. Until you have fish and are actively feeding them. With no alage or food going into tank hermits may turn on each other or the snails. Crab pellets are cheap and it doesn't take many. Once they hit the water the crabs will find them by smell.
It's what I do for my 210gallon that's currently fallow.
If you use them be sure not to feed to many and literally only like twice a week is enough.
One small bag Will last several months. You certainly wouldn't run out before adding fish.
Available online, most lfs or petco- is where I grabbed mine.