That sounds like a good plan. So are the drains above the bulkheads just straight PVC pipes (maybe with a filter screen) and the valve below the tank to control flow?
I'll update the drawing to include the drain pipes.
I think ideally it'd have a dedicated sump. It'll make life a lot easier if you have to treat for pests, plus you'd need less chemicals (if you choose) since your overall water volume wouldn't include the display tank. It'll also be good for QTing new frags / fish before adding them to the DT...
Hey Jeremey, thanks for the advice. Do you have any more information about flooded drains? I'm thinking of the normal glass box adhered to the left pane with the tank glass cut ~2.5" x 12" to allow for the overflow teeth and the sump return outlet. I'm not sure of the design of the drains...
I've had my 210 gallon tank set-up for almost 3 yrs now with ~1050watts for the halides alone (400w-250w-400w). So I'm getting ready to set-up a new tank and try and reduce electricity consumptions. I'm thinking of setting up a 60"Lx24"Wx22"H rimless starphire tank, with an ATI PM. Either the...
Nice pick up on the tank. I was talking to Ron about checking it out, but you beat me to it.
HD or Lowes rents by the hour regardless of miles. I think they give you a 15 minute grace period, but you could also rent it for 2 hours.
Nice job on the gurgle buster. The tanks looking good too.
You could also build in a small bubble tower.
http://www.melevsreef.com/video/trapped_bubbles.wmv
Ok gotcha. So the DT right now doesn't have a sump (added water volume) that would cause the frag tank to overflow in-the case of the eheim jamming. In essence the new tank can serve as a sump/frag tank.
Great. Sounds like you have the flood issue covered.