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Present day thoughts/techniques on dips

Until recently, it had been years since I had introduced anything new to my tanks. Now that I'm doing an SPS based reboot, I decided to brush up on "Today's latest" dipping techniques and chemicals. What I found is a whole lot of the same as the first time I started this hunt over 10 years ago.

There were a few mainstream dips that have been touted as "the best". I believe one of them is CoralRX. I've read on Iodine, melafix, etc.

Last I used with success was Bayer Advanced Insect control. I should quote "success", because who knows if it killed anything, but it didn't kill my coral.

What do you use? Techniques?
 
Bayer works great for me. That said I try to always remove plugs, unless the coral is already well encrusted on it, in which case I try to trim off as much of the plug with a bone cutter.


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Bayer plus 2 drop of Flatworm Exit. Frag removed from the plug and any encrusting growth is discarded. If there's any rock left exposed when the frag is removed, then a set of bone cutters is used to remove any of the extra rock. Frag is then visually inspected and rinsed twice before being placed into tank. Getting my replacement AIO 20G tank tomorrow so they will go into that tank for QT going forward before being placed in DT.
 
Bayer plus 2 drop of Flatworm Exit. Frag removed from the plug and any encrusting growth is discarded. If there's any rock left exposed when the frag is removed, then a set of bone cutters is used to remove any of the extra rock. Frag is then visually inspected and rinsed twice before being placed into tank. Getting my replacement AIO 20G tank tomorrow so they will go into that tank for QT going forward before being placed in DT.

I just started removing my frags from the existing plug, but what i find difficult is getting rid of the encrusted growth! It's basically another coral frag to be. That said. I guess if i'm going to remove the frag in the first place, it makes sense..

I also just re-started my 28g nano for visual QT purposes. So this should help to try to ensure that nothing gets to my DT.

@Kremis - I'll have to read up on coral revive.
 
I have Bayer, haven't had large numbers of corals to dip as of recently though. However I seem to recall reading someone going on a major rant about the insecticides used in Bayer are not very good for a reef tank.
 
I have Bayer, haven't had large numbers of corals to dip as of recently though. However I seem to recall reading someone going on a major rant about the insecticides used in Bayer are not very good for a reef tank.

I'm sure it really isn't a great thing to throw in your tank, being that it is designed to kill things and all. If you find that writeup about bayer, id like to read it.

For me, if I can "wound" my coral, while killing off everything bad, I'm all over it. It's a bit selfish of me, but I can live with that :)

Thinking back. I have probably Bayer dipped 20 or 30 corals without noticeable issues.

On another note, does anyone FW dip any corals? I usually RODI zip zoanthids and Palys. Never had any issues. I've heard that Acros and other sensative SPS is not so bueno for this.
 
Here's a thread about it on R2R, you can get the gist of it in the first couple pages, it does diverge later.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bayer-pesticide-as-a-coral-dip-stop-it-smh.255263/
There was one very interesting response though went something along the lines of "I'd rather use Bayer where I know whats in it as opposed to CoralRX where they keep the ingredients secret" definitely something to think about with all aquarium products that I don't even know if they require an MSDS.



Bottom line though, is don't use this as a dip, swish and plunk in your tank, dip, swish it, rinse it, let it sit outside the tank, rinse some more...etc.
 
I just started removing my frags from the existing plug, but what i find difficult is getting rid of the encrusted growth! It's basically another coral frag to be. That said. I guess if i'm going to remove the frag in the first place, it makes sense..

I also just re-started my 28g nano for visual QT purposes. So this should help to try to ensure that nothing gets to my DT.

@Kremis - I'll have to read up on coral revive.
Just think of the encrusting part like a haircut.

I use revive too. I think it’s as good as Bayer but not as toxic to the tank if it doesn’t get rinsed well enough. (This is just my impression; nothing scientific)
 
This ties into a coral acclimation question I have. Do you acclimate corals? So after a swap if you have frags from 6 different people and systems, do you just dip in common water with your dipping treatment, like new saltwater and not acclimate them?
People who QT coral: do you have a full setup with powerful lights and all?
 
A coral QT probably shouldn’t run the strongest lights. Lower light is best a couple weeks, instead of bright lights which can shock/burn a new coral getting used to new parameters.

I also think coral QT tanks should be left running 24/7. I used to setup a new qt tank every time I had new corals, but they did not do as well.

For a frag swap situation with 6 different containers, unless there is one really precious frag I want to baby, I would just probably temp float and check salinity and if they’re all close, mix then together. You can drop acclimate, but I’ve just exchanged larger amounts at a time over 30 minutes. Then cut off the plug, dip, remount, and into the qt!

Like @Ibn I am using an aio 20g.



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My QT has weaker lights.
It uses display tank water, continuous slow water change.
DT -> pump -> QT -> overflow -> 10 micron filter -> DT
The filter keeps any nasties from getting back into my main tank. (well, 99%)
No acclimation from QT to DT needed.
No need for any filtration in QT, so easy to start/stop/clean.
Those filters are only like $3, so hardly a big expense.
 
A coral QT probably shouldn’t run the strongest lights. Lower light is best a couple weeks, instead of bright lights which can shock/burn a new coral getting used to new parameters.

I also think coral QT tanks should be left running 24/7. I used to setup a new qt tank every time I had new corals, but they did not do as well.

For a frag swap situation with 6 different containers, unless there is one really precious frag I want to baby, I would just probably temp float and check salinity and if they’re all close, mix then together. You can drop acclimate, but I’ve just exchanged larger amounts at a time over 30 minutes. Then cut off the plug, dip, remount, and into the qt!

Like @Ibn I am using an aio 20g.



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I also agree that running a coral QT 24/7 is the way to go. I've tried a temp QT for corals and it just doesn't work. I use a 20g long as my coral QT with some reefbrites for lighting, no skimmer, but regular water changes. I clip all the plugs off, inspect w/ magnifying glass, trim off as much non living tissue, dip in CoralX and Bayer acclimating as above.
 
My QT has weaker lights.
It uses display tank water, continuous slow water change.
DT -> pump -> QT -> overflow -> 10 micron filter -> DT
The filter keeps any nasties from getting back into my main tank. (well, 99%)
No acclimation from QT to DT needed.
No need for any filtration in QT, so easy to start/stop/clean.
Those filters are only like $3, so hardly a big expense.
So does the water go back to the dt? Is 10 microns small enough to stop ich or majanos?
 
So does the water go back to the dt? Is 10 microns small enough to stop ich or majanos?
For mine, it did, until just recently. Now I use AWC, and it goes to the drain.
Yes, 10 microns is small enough.
The risk for me was overflow, or the filter not sealing fully.
 
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