Kensington Reefer
Supporting Member
I had a tunze stream that I discovered the wires separating from the submerged impeller
Fortunately before any damage occurred
Fortunately before any damage occurred
My first Fish copper Qt treatment
- Thread starter MichaelB
- Start date
H2OPlayar
Supporting Member
I am also referring to old Tunze's that Mike gave me.
Yes
So I want to have it on dc? Not ac
Turkeysammich
Moderator
No you want to have it on ac. To test it. Put the red wire probe in the right top( small blade ) then put the black probe in the bottom D shaped. Your volt meter should read 120v. Now if it does. Then your one the right setting. Put both probes in the water and see if you get a reading. If you do anything over 1 volt. Like 5 volts or more. Then disconnect 1 thing at a time. The one that drops the voltage to zero or close. Is the bad unit.
Now if you put both probes in the water and nothing. Then put the black probe to the D slot ( ground) and the red probe in the water. Then do the same thing. Unplug 1 thing at a time.
It’s been a while since I’ve done it. Basically you want one probe to ground and the other to power ( your short) which is the water. Sump and DT is different sometimes. They may or may not be connected. So test both.
Heater need to be on if it’s bad. It will test zero if it’s off. But when it comes on. It will shock you.
Oh if you don’t have a ground wire. You can stick the black probe in the left long slot. And the red probe in the right smaller slot. It will read 120v
If you’re still stuck. You have my number. We can do a quick FaceTime and I can walk you thru it.
Last edited:
Unfortunately I don't have any grounded outlets like that. In my place beyond the bathroom and kitchens. No where that tanks are that is.
I had red wire in tank and black probe wire on my metal trailer.
There is also a no connection voltage sensing feature.
Near glass of both tanks
Away from glass
Near a air pump
Near dj strip
Near heater power cords.
From the manual
Random shots of this feature. I'm not sure I i take it there is high voltage in the tank or not.
Lmao I thought the smart multimeter would make things easier to figure out. Looked at videos and ugh they only show manual ones
Last edited:
PjFish
Supporting Member
I’ve only dealt with the analog voltage meters and bench power supplys. My iPhone is one of only a few smart devices in the house not sure on Alexa or myself . Run an extension cord from your grounded outlets to the garage for a good ground source. You need clean steel for good ground. Just tossing out there depending on ur trailer grounding on painted surfaces or galvanized steel that will effect the ground also most bumpers aren’t a good place but there mounting brackets should be or where the tail lights are grounded too. Those gas steele cooking rigs holding the tanks up should be good ground especially for deep frying big birds or a Low Country boil mmm!
Most tanks do have a bit of stray induced current naturally from all the wires in proximity of the tank plus magnetic power-heads and pumps etc. Sorta like if you wrap an small extension cord around a pint of beer you will get induced stray current in ur beer while drinking totally safe. Im guessing dosing copper in a fish tank will increase its electrical conduciveness which the copper power ions your dosing increases the water's capacity to carry a charge so amplifies the current readings. The higher cooper will also speed up corrosion of any faulty equipment most likely.
The fact your getting the nearly same measurement on each tank is a que? I thought your using the same equipment on both tanks?
Myself I wouldn’t worry about 30-50 readings of stray current one bit..Im no electrician but have run alota 14 gage Romex and gang boxes
But since your getting tingling its probably coming from actual voltage so narrow down and eliminate the faulty equipment or switch out asap…
How is the puffer doing and other fish?
Check out the two vids in the link one is about ground probes the other is basically what your describing!
Good luck Michael!
marsh-reef.org
Most tanks do have a bit of stray induced current naturally from all the wires in proximity of the tank plus magnetic power-heads and pumps etc. Sorta like if you wrap an small extension cord around a pint of beer you will get induced stray current in ur beer while drinking totally safe. Im guessing dosing copper in a fish tank will increase its electrical conduciveness which the copper power ions your dosing increases the water's capacity to carry a charge so amplifies the current readings. The higher cooper will also speed up corrosion of any faulty equipment most likely.
The fact your getting the nearly same measurement on each tank is a que? I thought your using the same equipment on both tanks?
Myself I wouldn’t worry about 30-50 readings of stray current one bit..Im no electrician but have run alota 14 gage Romex and gang boxes
But since your getting tingling its probably coming from actual voltage so narrow down and eliminate the faulty equipment or switch out asap…
How is the puffer doing and other fish?
Check out the two vids in the link one is about ground probes the other is basically what your describing!
Good luck Michael!
Let’s revisit Ground Probes and Stray Voltage | Marine and Reef General Discussion
You may have your solar and generator ready for hurricane season, but what if a different disaster strikes before that? Will your corals make it? What about all your fish? Who’s running one. Send me a link please. :)
@Turkeysammich helped me figure things out last night. It turned out to be both heaters. One showing 10 volts and the other showing 60 volts.
All the other gear only showed 1-2. I learned a few tricks from Will, should this problem ever show up in the future I won't be as clueless.
What was throwing me off is one of the heaters was only around 3 days out the box so brand new.
I ordered different more simple heaters this time.
All the other gear only showed 1-2. I learned a few tricks from Will, should this problem ever show up in the future I won't be as clueless.
What was throwing me off is one of the heaters was only around 3 days out the box so brand new.
I ordered different more simple heaters this time.
Last edited:
PizzaOven
Supporting Member
I went around to all of my tanks with my multimeter. I measured 20-40VAC in some of my tanks. I started to panic but didn't feel any shock/tingle. Then I remembered something about this test when I did it a few years ago. High impedance digital meters can detect "induced" voltage from wire coils in powerheads/pumps, even with no contact with the water. This isn't a safety concern because there isn't any current behind it (current is what's dangerous, not voltage). In order to properly test, you need a meter with low impedance (LoZ) mode. Most cheap multimeters don't have this feature. Since you felt shock, this isn't induced voltage, it's real stray voltage with current behind it! Just thought I'd mention this in case others do this test in the future.
These were two basically brand new heaters right? Same model? Make sure you let hygger know (and leave an Amazon review). This is a very serious safety issue.
These were two basically brand new heaters right? Same model? Make sure you let hygger know (and leave an Amazon review). This is a very serious safety issue.
One i had for over a year on old frag tank.
Prob the one that was reading 60. It was also treated in citric acid before use here since it was covered in vermatids.
I suspect the new one was reading 10. Could have been roughly handled in shipping who knows.
I have the same heaters on my other tanks though different wattage rating.
So I won't leave a bad review for a old heater i had which I soaked in acid, and carelessly tossed into a tote in garage. No idea on the new one. Yet just decided to to order replacement cheaper heaters because it's for qt tanks not long-term. So i figure long as they work and hold temp they should do.
I'll also return the new one to Amazon.
I will keep a eye out on the heaters in the other tanks.