Search results

First smooth one looks like a porcelain crab. Second is no bueno. Appears to be a gorilla crab.

XR15 & XR30 are the same screw.

Once you have aiptasia, you'll never be rid of it. It just becomes a maintenance task - some require (may) more work than others. ;)

All these values assume that tank CO2 levels are at equilibrium with ambient air. Personally, the first thing I would do is confirm that there is not a gas exchange deficiency in your larger tank before doing anything else.

Very anticlimactic....where's the actual picture! Such a tease.

For alkalinity, 1 meq/L = 1 mmol/L. You can reach a pH of 8.2 only if your co2 concentration in your house is 350-400 ppm and is at equilibrium with your tank. At 6-700ppm of co2 in ambient air, pH max is more like 8-8.1.

Oh, and your point about if alk is buffered correctly there is a max pH that can be achieved, it should be noted that this is possible only if there is an equilibrium of CO2 in the ambient air and in the tank. In the chart below you can see the effect of variable CO2 concentrations in seawater...

Is your surface agitation actually breaking the surface of the water or just "wavy." If it's not breaking the surface, then it's not adding much to gas exchange. Again, I'd recommend turning that skimmer to the highest possible setting and opening the skimmer drain all the way. Even if you have...

I don't think anyone has tested it. Go get your science lab coat on dude! If you're curious though and want to experiment, Potassium Permanganate has been tested on ich for freshwater and saltwater and is believed to be effective. Some have used it as a coral dip, but I've read it can be pretty...

"Causation is not correlation" Different tank, different variables. Maybe the gas exchange is better in your nano relative to the volume of water. Maybe there's less bioload (fish/inverts/coral) that produces less co2 than your bigger tank in relation to the size. I wouldn't jump to say it's the...

I gave a frag to @popper today. This post was automatically created by BARcode

I used melafix pond in that video. I usually use 2ml of melafix pond per liter. My normal dip is 1/2 tbsp of potassium chloride and 2ml of melafix pond per liter of saltwater mixed in one solution.

White bugs are hard to see as well. This was on a digital microscope. Could barely see them with a naked eye and that was only because I knew they were there.

Without a fuge, my pH was usually 7.7 to (maybe) 8.0. With a fuge, max was usually 8.1-8.2. With a CO2 scrubber, it sometimes gets too high (max around 8.5). I have 2 adults and 3 kids in the house though...

I do it all the time. In the setups I have done, it has helped keep the uglies to a minimum to non-existent - even starting from dry rock. But I'm also okay dosing nitrates or phosphates as needed if/when I bottom out. I'm also definitely aware though, I'm not of the norm on this topic. :p

I don't think flow will be affected much if you do it either way. If the overflow box lacks real estate space, reducing to 3/4" at the 1" bulkhead may serve you better.

I'm not clear what you're asking actually now. Is there a single 1" bulkhead in the overflow box for the return that comes from the sump and there are two 3/4" bulkheads in the overflow box for output to the tank?

Never ran triton, but here are some external fuges I did. Post in thread 'Randy’s Innovative Marine 75 Ext' https://www.bareefers.org/forum/threads/randy%E2%80%99s-innovative-marine-75-ext.32907/post-472626 Post in thread 'Randy's Red Sea Reefer 250'...

I believe he's looking to change covert the fpt threading on the flange side for the returns inside the tank, not outside.

Get a 1" x 3/4" reducer bushing then use 3/4" locline parts...