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Thanks @Coral reefer for your reflection on this method.. Just wondering when you say that, is it coz of 1st hand experience doing this, 2nd hand experience hearing about someone else doing this OR just statistical guess? Also, do you believe going fallow for 72 days is the only way to get rid...

Hypo (Day 6): Happy thanksgiving y'all! Blue tang looks really good today, swimming like old days before it caught ich, eating everything from water column, eye issue seems to be resolved as well.. I still see a very few spots on Clowns and some scratching from blenny and convict.. White spots...

Hypo (Day 4): Clowns look much better, with lesser white spots than yesterday.. Blue tang finally coming out more in the open, still struggling to eat from the water column, right eye has a larger layer of mucus, as I could see today when it came out in the open, which might be impacting its...

I see 2 of those in the pic, maybe cleaner or some other sort of wrasses

Hypo (Day 3): Cardinal doesnt have cloudy eye anymore and very minimal white spots.. Clowns still seem to have similar (or maybe a little more?) number of white spots, but that stringy mucus seems to have reduced.. Blue tang still struggling to see, always faces me and the food with the same...

love the guide and checklist before getting new livestock! thanks @MichaelB

Hypo (Day 2): I see cardinal fish has lesser spots and eye look much better too.. I see Blue tang's eye is still cloudy and feels like its impacting its vision as I could see it try to bite nori from 1-2 cms away.. It is still not its bubbly self and hiding more.. but hvnt seen any scratching...

thanks Michael, yes ideally ALL new additions should be QTed, but how many people (specially the successful and experienced ones here including you) actually QT inverts and corals is the real question.. maybe a poll will be helpful :)

thanks @PjFish you always have some solid points.. Yeah, there is a possibility that there may still be some flukes/ich that are hypo-resistant but heard thats rare.. I hope thats not the case with me.. Well, even if it is, I am not tired of trying and learning new things.. will fix it when it...

Yep, that’s my source! There are 2 articles I followed, 1 by HumbleFish and another one by Jay on R2R.. and then searched the internet and talked to GPT to find what works best.. the 2 articles mostly overlap, except minor differences

thanks much for the offer @MichaelB.. I do have 2 salinity meters, but guess another check wont hurt just to be sure.. I read about TM hydrometer being the most accurate.. I will sync up with you offline to pick that up for a month or 2 (bringing up salinity is going to be another challenging...

yes, I tried Copper Power at 2.25 in a Hospital tank for 21 days on Blue tang and 2 clowns and then moved them back to DT, but a couple of days later white spots reappeared implying ich has to be eliminated from DT basically, hence trying Hypo in DT now.. also getting UV which may help long term

Thanks @Turkeysammich.. I dont have any inverts and very few corals that I moved to another smaller tank which is easier than moving all the fish and going fallow for more than 2 months.. yes, constantly checking ammonia and salinity, pH also reduces coz RODI water has lower pH than...

I created a thread not that long ago talking about my struggles with white spots on fish which I initially thought were mucus cones and thought will subside once the stressor goes away.. There were a few members here who correctly escalated the problem but it wasnt until I lost my PBT to it...

thanks guys, yes I understand it wont fix the issue, I just want to manage ich and algae problems long term

thanks.. will low flow take care of ich/parasites as well as dinoes/bacteria/algae? intuitively feels like that should be the case, but want to confirm

Black Friday is a blessing as a new reefer haha.. I got AquaUV, RODI, pump, meds, food thus far.. looking to order cleanup crew (one of the package deals somewhere) where do people buy LRS food from? Hvnt seen any deals on them and shipping is crazy.. I got my AquaUV when the REDSEASALT offer...

Thanks, I was planning to put it after the socks.. current layout is socks--> empty chamber--> Skimmer--> Return Pump.. Earlier was planning to use empty chamber for reefmat, now planning to use it for UV instead

Interesting.. so minimum flow AquaUV suggests for SaltWater tanks is 1,066 GPH for a 57W system.. doesn't this slow rate kill any of the beneficial stuff? I understand most of the beneficial bacteria is on the rocks and sand and not free flowing in the water, but just wondering why there is such...

Planning to buy 57W aqua UV this thanksgiving.. Can anyone with the same UV unit share what pump do they use and what’s the recommended flow for ich management? I read AquaUV flow guide, but not sure if 1200 what they claim to kill Protozoa is what I should use in a reef tank, since they say it...