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It says you can connect the ring that's on the plug to the screw in your outlet or other metal object if your outlet is not grounded

I doubt it, but a grounding probe may. Definitely your cheapest option so would try one of them first. https://www.amazon.com/RV2735-Rid-Volt-Titanium-Grounding-Probe/dp/B0002DGSWE

I guess it could be from a broken outlet cover where the current travels down the line into your tank, but that's doubtful. It probably is something in your tank that is leaking current originating at the outlet. Do you have a UV sterilizer, I had a electric leak from a bad one of those once.

Might want to get a cheap grounding probe from amazon in the mean time. I read you can connect them to a metal screw if your outlet is not grounded. I would also check your heater/s first, they are the most likely to leak electricity, a lot of cheap ones do that, even when off.

Could if they are all wearing different shoes or if one person had their hand touching the glass at the same time as the water.

Try it with a different power supply. I've had issues with some M1's as well and was able to fix them with simply changing out the power supplies. If you do need to order more, you can get them cheaper from AI than you can from Ecotech, it is the same power supply that the Hydra 26 uses with...

SFBAAPS. Not sure if it is still in existence tho, saw a post from Jan. 2019 that they still were active.

FYI, Aqua SD regularly sells a frag of this coral (Toxic Pie Chalice) for $20 or less. Currently it's up for $30.

6 inch's away from the water is a very shallow canopy to mount a light in. I would suggest raise the canopy, if I remember correctly, most good LED lights suggest a mounting height of 12"-16". BRS has some good videos on this.

Shelf life

I think that would affect Nitrates more than phosphates. I've done a few "black out" treatments for hair algae recently and each time it shoots up my Nitrates as the algae dies.

Be careful when pruning zoa's, especially green and brown ones. I've heard those are the types that tend to release palytoxin into the air. Don't want any trips to the ER, especially right now.

Reef Roids seems to be pure phosphates. I'd just start adding some of that regularly.

I've added T5's to multiple hoods. I agree the reflector makes a difference, but not enough for me to spend a bunch more for a fancy one. I've purchased at least 6 or so sets of these from Amazon, Vivosun has always been good for me.

I have a backup pump set up for this purpose. Just make sure you add a line in your apex code to turn off the backup pump it runs too long. Both Neptunes optical sensors and float switches can get stuck in either the on or off position.

Yes, I don't think you can/would want to plumb them into the same line. Don't be afraid to drill the tank tho, it's a lot easier/safer than you would think.

Then I definitely suggest dual (2) return pumps. All pumps will die, get clogged, etc, so having a 2nd one always running will be the most reliable. This has saved my tank numerous times over the years.

IMO, RSR are over-rated. I'd go SCA for 200 gal and below, Crystal Dynamics for 200+.

I would suspect their idea is that this department will increase enrollment which will intern allow them to increase funding in other areas. I know if this was offered when I was beginning college I would have 100% gone to SFSU.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/neptune-apex-programming-tutorials-part-1.610367/ https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/neptune-apex-programming-tutorials-part-3-automatic-top-off-kit-atk.618106/ This set of articles helped me understand what you can do with your Apex. First article is intro...