ModernReefKeeper
Guest
Well hello there! Fisrt time poster here. finally got something worth showing
Ok ive got a lot of thinking in to this setup. I basically set it up with 2 decks.
just like below:
Lid/cover
---------------------
Top deck: 150 MH plus high fan movement, in from the back, and then to the front, exiting out a vent.
---------------------
UV glass, approx 10% uv passes through (questions about this element below)
---------------------
Bottom deck: Fan movement, keeps a temprature barrier, to cool heat from MH before it reaches water.
(This fan speed is controlled with a reostat on the front of the tank)
---------------------
Water
Temprature readings:
I have an temprature measurement for:
Top Deck: Exit MH air averages 80deg, max seen is 85deg
Bottom Deck: Exit air averages 78deg
Water temp: 76 Deg
If water temprature exceeds 78, an auxiliray bottom deck fan, 100cfm + comes on, which is thermostatically controlled.
(it has come on once in testing, but I had to turn off the bottom deck constant fan, and it took 2 hours for the water temp to get up to 78)
My question:
Most MH fixtures come with a UV shielded tempered glass.
I went to get a piece made for this special project,
I needed it right away, and the glass shop recommended a UV glass which is 2 layers, with a UV Gel between the glass.
(used in sliding glass doors, to keep things from bleaching in the sun)
yielding a stated 10% UV allowed through. I figured I could try it, and always back down to the single UV treated tempered piece.
So.... Is this double decker UV slashing glass too much shielding.
How much UV radiation from the MH is desirable for the corals?
- Is it this UV radiation, that causes the corals to color up under MH lighting?
- Would you guys recommend me allowing more UV radiation through?
Pics of the construction:
The ballast
The bulb fixture is from a halogen shop light, stripped out from the housing, and slightly streched, to accomidate the 150 MH bulb.
This shows the bottom deck, (LED's are on the bottom deck)
showing the 110v fans : wierdstuff; 3.00ea (only one is being used/ connected to power, as 2 did not improve temprature drop)
The tiny fan at far right is the 2 stage 12V Bottom deck fan. One quiet one, stacked on one that sounds like a C5 taking off.
(designed for a single high, rack mount Server case: wierdstuff; 3.00)
The wiring is now all shrink tubed, these were pre assembly pictures.
Temprature sensor on the left, and that crinkely foil looking stuff...lol
Thats a piece of shielding use to wrap Performance Turbos, to shield heating (rated @ well over 1k degrees I believe), as I was not sure how hot the light would get against the wood top
In this pic, there was a 2.5" wide strip of Aluminum, laying on the glass, blocking the direct light, as I was aclimating the corals to the tank (just removed this Monday evening)
Yeah its a 5 gal...lol
Comments are welcome, and requested, as well as any constructive suggestions.
Ok ive got a lot of thinking in to this setup. I basically set it up with 2 decks.
just like below:
Lid/cover
---------------------
Top deck: 150 MH plus high fan movement, in from the back, and then to the front, exiting out a vent.
---------------------
UV glass, approx 10% uv passes through (questions about this element below)
---------------------
Bottom deck: Fan movement, keeps a temprature barrier, to cool heat from MH before it reaches water.
(This fan speed is controlled with a reostat on the front of the tank)
---------------------
Water
Temprature readings:
I have an temprature measurement for:
Top Deck: Exit MH air averages 80deg, max seen is 85deg
Bottom Deck: Exit air averages 78deg
Water temp: 76 Deg
If water temprature exceeds 78, an auxiliray bottom deck fan, 100cfm + comes on, which is thermostatically controlled.
(it has come on once in testing, but I had to turn off the bottom deck constant fan, and it took 2 hours for the water temp to get up to 78)
My question:
Most MH fixtures come with a UV shielded tempered glass.
I went to get a piece made for this special project,
I needed it right away, and the glass shop recommended a UV glass which is 2 layers, with a UV Gel between the glass.
(used in sliding glass doors, to keep things from bleaching in the sun)
yielding a stated 10% UV allowed through. I figured I could try it, and always back down to the single UV treated tempered piece.
So.... Is this double decker UV slashing glass too much shielding.
How much UV radiation from the MH is desirable for the corals?
- Is it this UV radiation, that causes the corals to color up under MH lighting?
- Would you guys recommend me allowing more UV radiation through?
Pics of the construction:
The ballast





The bulb fixture is from a halogen shop light, stripped out from the housing, and slightly streched, to accomidate the 150 MH bulb.

This shows the bottom deck, (LED's are on the bottom deck)

showing the 110v fans : wierdstuff; 3.00ea (only one is being used/ connected to power, as 2 did not improve temprature drop)
The tiny fan at far right is the 2 stage 12V Bottom deck fan. One quiet one, stacked on one that sounds like a C5 taking off.
(designed for a single high, rack mount Server case: wierdstuff; 3.00)

The wiring is now all shrink tubed, these were pre assembly pictures.

Temprature sensor on the left, and that crinkely foil looking stuff...lol
Thats a piece of shielding use to wrap Performance Turbos, to shield heating (rated @ well over 1k degrees I believe), as I was not sure how hot the light would get against the wood top


In this pic, there was a 2.5" wide strip of Aluminum, laying on the glass, blocking the direct light, as I was aclimating the corals to the tank (just removed this Monday evening)

Yeah its a 5 gal...lol

Comments are welcome, and requested, as well as any constructive suggestions.