Kessil

My first Fish copper Qt treatment

Turkeysammich said:
Having said that. If you didn’t have a low enough gfci or a ground to the breaker box. The short would have been complete. So when you touched the water or metal on the aquarium. It would shock you. Especially if you didn’t have shoes on. Like 10-15 years ago. There’s a guy that died from this. He had a heart condition and there was a short in his sump. His wife found him. He had passes away with his hand in the sump.
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This is what scares me about stuff like this, it kills people. We're basically putting toasters in bathtubs and relying on the manufacturers to protect us with enough insulation around the toaster. We've put too much faith in certain companies like hygger that are putting people at serious risk.
 
PizzaOven said:
This is what scares me about stuff like this, it kills people. We're basically putting toasters in bathtubs and relying on the manufacturers to protect us with enough insulation around the toaster. We've put too much faith in certain companies like hygger that are putting people at serious risk.
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I'll be installing gfi outlets for the tanks.

The only issue is the 210gallon tank.

I can't swap that outlet without completing draining and moving the tank from the wall.
Nothing I'm currently willing to do or have the bandwidth to carry out.

Yet all the other tank outlets are in decent reach.

That outlet is behind the tank almost dead centered.

They won't be grounded. Yet from vidoes and articles I read it should still trip the gfic on the outlet if it dectets current. Offering some level of protection. I'm supposed to label the outlets as no equipment ground.
 
Note that on a given electrical circuit, you only need one GFCI not one per outlet. In most places that means one per room, however it has to be near the first one.

You don't really want multiple, because debugging what tripped can be a nightmare. I'm also unclear if having multiple leads to any other issues.

Knowing which outlet requires some knowledge of the way the wiring is setup.

Alternative is I think you can by GFCI power strips, though if you can't reach the outlet behind your main tank maybe doesn't matter either way? Getting shocked is definitely a good reason to think about GFCI, but arguably more important seems to be fire risks from saltwater drips and shorts. The whole hobby is asking for electrical issues. Another reason this is a money hole.
 
richiev said:
Note that on a given electrical circuit, you only need one GFCI not one per outlet. In most places that means one per room, however it has to be near the first one.

You don't really want multiple, because debugging what tripped can be a nightmare. I'm also unclear if having multiple leads to any other issues.

Knowing which outlet requires some knowledge of the way the wiring is setup.

Alternative is I think you can by GFCI power strips, though if you can't reach the outlet behind your main tank maybe doesn't matter either way? Getting shocked is definitely a good reason to think about GFCI, but arguably more important seems to be fire risks from saltwater drips and shorts. The whole hobby is asking for electrical issues. Another reason this is a money hole.
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I have 3 they came in a box. I have 4 tanks in the same room. Each on different outlets.

Though one tank is hooked up onto the kitchen so different breaker.

I have a garage outlet that I plan to run to my main sps tank. I Already have the wire for it ran through the garage/ livingroom wall. Though this is on standby as the two 40 gallon breeders in the garage are currently on that circuit. I don't wanna risk tripping that breaker until qt tanks are no longer running. 3 tanks on one outlet seems like I would be asking for problems.

Yet I haven't tripped a breaker in several weeks so I'm content for now until The qt tanks are no longer needed.

Goal here is to spread out the load across multiple breakers.


So out of the 4 tanks in the same room to clarify.

Living room breaker:

1.) sps tank: decent load:
2 mp10s, 2 kessils 360xs, hydros launch controller, ink bird, temp probe, ph probe, salinty probe, vectra ctra s1 return pump, protien skimmer, redsea nano roller, mini brs gfo reactor return pump, 300 watt heater, interment- hydros ato, hydros single head dosing pump.

2.) 210gallon tank
3mp40s, 4 kessil 360x, 2 jaebo 1300 dcp return pumps, gfo reactor, protein skimmer, 1 800 watt heater (I have a second 1000 watt heater I haven't hooked up yet), ato pump, hydros start controller, temp Probe.

3.) Im 25 lagoon, very old school 30watt nicrew crew pendant light discontinued version, heater, nano return pump, 1 254 gallon generic wave maker. Ato.

Kitchen breaker:
4.) 32galllon biocube nem tank
1 kessil 360x
Heater, inkbird, ato, mini retun pump, 2 hygger mini wave makers.


The 40 gallon sps tank and 210 are the real power hogs, the other two seem minor in comparison. So my long term plan was to switch the main sps tank to my garage circuit.

I have 3 total gfic breakers. So I'm thinking of using one. Near my 40gallon sps tank that I intermently use to run heater, wave makers, pumps to do water changes and fragging equipment. These are in constant use by any means and really will i run more than 3 extra heaters and a wave maker to heat water mix salt drain dill tanks etc.


I would likely use one gfic on the outlet near the im25. Not really sure about where to use the last one.

I didn't know there are gfic power stripes. I'm wondering if things something I can plug the dj power strip and hydros start from the 210gallon tank in. The wall outlet there is only 2 prong. Currently using a 3 to 2 prong adapter there.

Would this gfic power strip offer some protection ? At least not get me electrocuted or fish fried? Of all my tanks this tank definitely has this highest power draw.
 
I moved most of the fish over to qt 2 days ago. Except the 3 wrasses on way back to home depot while typing this to get another light screen lid to further section off the tank. These fish are crazy hard to catch. And I passed the fish trap to someone else last week.

There is some unfortunate news.

The clown tang from @Srt4eric passed away this morning. He had stopped eating a few days back. And I wasn't able to get him to eat in the qt tanks either. He has been hovering in front of the mp40s the last 3 days he was in the 210.

Current the copper power is still around 1.0 on both qt tanks. I haven't started to increase it yet. The plan is to slowly do it over a few days once I have all the fish out the 210.



Current split. I have all the herbs angels foxface tangs in one tank.

The puffer, 2 lighting maroons are. Currently in the other tank. The warrasses will also go into this tank.

Originally the puffer had slowed down on eating but not He's back to normal. All the other fish look good. I was actually starting to worry about the clown tang. Hopefully mission capture wrasses works today. So I can properly start the qt process.
 
Sorry for your loss Michael.. You are trying so hard to cure them and keep them safe.. Hope you are successful at the end of this exercise! Sending good vibes
 
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