Cali Kid Corals

Reef tank plumbing - ABS vs PVC, cement, anything to know?

IOnceWasLegend

IOnceWasLegend

Frag Swap Coordinator
BOD
BARcard
So I'm currently working on putting together a frag build, and it will be my first sumped tank. Since this will involve plumbing, and I have not done this in a reef tank before, I have some questions.

1. Is it preferable to use ABS or PVC pipe? I know that ABS is more useful for withstanding longer exposure to the elements/etc, but this will be indoors, so I don't think that'll be an issue.

2. Is there a 'reef-safe' PVC cement, or will standard PVC pipe like Red Hot work? If Red Hot works, how long should you wait for it to cure before running water through it?

3. Anything I should know that may not be immediately obvious? E.g., do you wash the PVC pipes with more than just RODI water? Anything else I should be aware of?
 
I use pvc over abs, normal pvc glue, shouldn’t take more than 5-10 min to dry. I wouldn’t worry about washing More than a quick rinse.
 
1. PVC tends to be preferable as most fittings and bulkheads you get in the hobby will also be PVC, however ABS is doable, but I think you're less likely to find the wide array of sizes that you'd typically use in an aquarium, i.e. not sure you can find 1/2" ABS or hell even 1". But both are perfectly fine, just note that if you do mix and match you might run into gluing issues.

2. The only "reef safe" aspect of cement is waiting for it to dry. Any cement works. As to the how long, ask 10 different people you'll get 10 difference answers. If you're going to do a "leak test" i.e. fill it with water and empty, I couple hours is fine, in fact I would advise doing just this because the exposed layers of the cement (i.e. not between the joints) tends to stay volatile for much longer, this is what you typically smell if you sniff you plumbing :D Normally though I'd probably wait 24 hours.

3. I don't wash PVC unless it looks dirty. Which granted can happen as big box stores typically have returns and just throw them back on the shelves. Spend a few bucks and buy an extra fitting or two and practice on if you've never done PVC before.

Prime the entire contact surface of both fitting and pipe, glue (same rules as primer), push together, 1/4 twist, hold for a few seconds, and wipe off any excess with a paper towel. Wear gloves unless you're ok with purple stained hands that make it look like you robbed a bank and a dye pack exploded :D If you're going to have lots of elbows involved dry fitting is good, then mark lines on pipe & fitting to help remember alignment. The less fittings you have to put in your plumbing the better chance to be leak free it is, i.e. plumbing should be thought out and have priority over other things if possible, e.g. move your electrical around the plumbing not the other way.
 
Pvcfittingsonline.com is gonna be your friend for fittings, much better prices than you’ll get at any LFS. I got their ratcheting pipe cutter and found it to be a great way to cut pipe, especially better than a hack saw Since it can be easier to get a straight cut.
Neptune is a good spot to get the colored pvc if you wanna have that look, I think it’s a worthwhile improvement over white pvc if it’s gonna be seen.
 
This is the stuff you want to use... bonds ABS and PVC , and PVC to ABS. Generally most black bulkheads are ABS. so one thing to note on that is NEVER use a tool to over tighten the nut to the the bulkhead or you might end up cracking the bulkhead and not find out until things are glued together.

You can also order the colored PVC through home depot BTW if you want to go crazy, and build yourself furniture with leftovers... hah

1596573832581.png
 
However many unions you think you need, double it and then future you will really appreciate it. It allows the plumbing to be more modular if down the road you want to switch anything up. And gate valves are good for things you need to tune like a drain, you don’t wanna rely on a ball valve for those use cases. Ball valves are better for on/off
At least that’s what I’ve learned myself when I read up for plumbing stuff for my tanks.
 
NanoCrazed said:
This is the stuff you want to use... bonds ABS and PVC , and PVC to ABS. Generally most black bulkheads are ABS. so one thing to note on that is NEVER use a tool to over tighten the nut to the the bulkhead or you might end up cracking the bulkhead and not find out until things are glued together.

You can also order the colored PVC through home depot BTW if you want to go crazy, and build yourself furniture with leftovers... hah

View attachment 17984
Click to expand...
I always prefer threaded bulkheads so things can be removed if and when needed
 
Coral reefer said:
I always prefer threaded bulkheads so things can be removed if and when needed
Click to expand...
Alas -- with my luck, I always get leaks that takes me days to stop. Used to only do threaded but now I only do slips. Sometimes, all depends on the luck \ quality of bulkheads that the stores carry, which changes often depending on available stock they can get.

That said, Neptune currently carries quality bulkheads at the moment... so if you need one, that's the spot!
 
NanoCrazed said:
Alas -- with my luck, I always get leaks that takes me days to stop. Used to only do threaded but now I only do slips. Sometimes, all depends on the luck \ quality of bulkheads that the stores carry, which changes often depending on available stock they can get.

That said, Neptune currently carries quality bulkheads at the moment... so if you need one, that's the spot!
Click to expand...
I’d say luck has little to do with it, but to each their own. As for the quality of the bulkheads, do you mean the thread s aren’t good somehow? Never had this problem and have used a lot of bulkheads over the years. Teflon tape and or liquid Teflon helps a lot on threaded connections, especially larger diameter ones.
 
More of the problem is inside threads, sometimes just can never get a good enough seal despite teflon tape or glue. Even tried liquid silicone that was recommended to me by someone who builds large systems for aquariums . Usually, I have no problems but sometimes I do get surprises. With the amount of travel I used to do, I can't afford surprises. Last time I used fully threaded bulkheads, I discovered a leak hours before my flight out of the country. That was enough to just go full slip and go through the extra pain later of cutting the bulkhead in the off chance I need to move or rework the system, which is almost never...
 
I wouldn’t say shouldn’t, I don’t use its as a sealant at all, but it does make it easier to tighten the fitting. And yes, over tightening can definitely lead to cracking. I recommend hand tightening. Shouldn’t need a wrench.
 
Coral reefer said:
I wouldn’t say shouldn’t, I don’t use its as a sealant at all, but it does make it easier to tighten the fitting. And yes, over tightening can definitely lead to cracking. I recommend hand tightening. Shouldn’t need a wrench.
Click to expand...

I know everyone does it and it has became “accepted” practice, but it really shouldn’t be done.

Assembling Threaded Plastic Fittings | LASCO Fittings

www.lascofittings.com www.lascofittings.com

www.linkedin.com

What thread sealant to use with PVC fittings!

This is a common question that is asked by installers when assembling PVC tapered pipe threads in a piping system. There is a common misconception that Teflon sealant or tape is the best for ALL threaded joints.
www.linkedin.com www.linkedin.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top